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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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With the G39, the full auto issue, from what I've seen in a friends, tends to be the nozzle not sealing properly with the bucking when returning to battery in full auto before cycling rearwards again; This leads to a lot of the gas escaping, hence the first shot being fine, and all consecutive shots dropping.

 

Still, full auto in a GBBR, unless it's the summer, is a bit pointless anyway. 

Even with perfect seal, my G39 is a lot better on the stock valve than the NPAS. Better kick, sustainable auto burst. There is one way to decrease power wi an NPAS, use a VFC mp5 variable power floating valve set..l forgot who it was made by.

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I'd rather be hit by a single .3 than 15 .2's, but the heavier whack of a .3 definitely helps when you're only hitting people with one or two shots.

 

As for lowering FPS without an NPAS, I've always just cut down the inner barrel; Admittedly you don't have any adjustability, but I've never suffered a loss in performance as a result. My old WOC had a 6" inner barrel and the thing was a tack driver :P

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While there is many ways to skin a cat, I prefer re-design principles of: 

 

 

- Modding as close to the source/cause.  (i.e. modding the part that is the cause of the issue)

 

- Efficiency (i.e. modding without wasteage, or potential decrease in performance)

 

- Small mods over large ones  (i.e. if one can solve problems by shaving off/adding 3mm off a tooth/valve/material, then its better than major surgery)

 

- Modularity (i.e. modding as least parts as possible so that if other parts fail you don't have to re-mod 3 or 4 different parts)

 

- Sustainable/reversible. (i.e. increases durability)

 

 

Cutting off a barrel to lower FPS is basically against most of these design principles. 

 

While it may seem to work for you in a 330fps environment where accuracy of a 6" barrel is sufficient to give you precision shots up to 30-40m, for users in areas where power levels are higher, modding the barrel length will decrease performance over that range and disadvantage the user.

 

Modding/changing the valve is clearly the better option, otherwise the other option is to add O-rings to the floating valve stopper so the floating valve sits more forward, decreasing the time the valve feeds gas to the breech.  This maintains gas efficiency while not sacrificing potential accuracy, and does not involve major invasive surgery.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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I agree, I notice top end accuracy is best for me with the K length barrel at 1.5J, my C barrel can reach out there but my grouping isn't as nice. I dropped the NPAS in my bolt with my K length barrel and it netted me 1.5j so hopefully it doesn't change on me as I use it.

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Bit of an update:

 

One mag spontaneously decided to leak after I filled it with gas, will probably just have to take it down, oil the valve and o-ring and it'll be back to normal.

 

A more worrying development is that when cocking the rifle whilst on FA, the trigger won't engage and drop the hammer, I have to switch to Semi or Safe and back again for it to engage. I've noticed that the trigger goes marginally a bit farther forward when cocking on FA than on Semi. Anyone else experience this?

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Hi guys, so I have a problem with my g39

The bolt will not lock back either after the last round has been fired, or when and empty mag is in and the charging handle is pulled back.

I have heavily oiled it with silicon oil from a spray can, and tightened the flathead screw just enough that it does not hinder the spring.

Sometimes when I pull the charging handle back with an empty mag in it will lock back, but will go back forward when the mag is released.

Anyone know the fix to this?

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  • 2 weeks later...

The O-ring was so out of place that the nozzle was stuck in there good. Took it apart, reseated it, and it's all good now. I think I was pressing in the gas cannister a bit too hard.

 

EDIT: One problem after another! Here I go again:

 

 

When on semi, it would randomly fire a burst. I suspect this was due to one of mags which is a bit dodgy (the inner, metal part of the mag isn't secured to the plastic housing, and is able to go up into the bolt area). Eventually it jammed two BBs, one into the hop and one in the feed-ramp.

 

Then, after all that excitement, my G39 doesn't want to fire any of my mags properly. It only releases a tiny, tiny bit of gas, enough to propel the BB with a decent velocity but not enough to chamber another round. I took it apart and everything seems fine. Could it have something to do with the NPAS?

 

Thanks.

Edited by AG1212
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But the hammer seems to function fine apart from pre-existing issues. It drops as hard as it did before, or so far as I can tell.

 

And thanks for your help m8, I really appreciate it.

Edited by AG1212
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