AG1212 Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Haha yes indeed! Tend to hurt a bit more too in my experience, the extra mass must conserve more energy over distance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 With the G39, the full auto issue, from what I've seen in a friends, tends to be the nozzle not sealing properly with the bucking when returning to battery in full auto before cycling rearwards again; This leads to a lot of the gas escaping, hence the first shot being fine, and all consecutive shots dropping. Still, full auto in a GBBR, unless it's the summer, is a bit pointless anyway. Even with perfect seal, my G39 is a lot better on the stock valve than the NPAS. Better kick, sustainable auto burst. There is one way to decrease power wi an NPAS, use a VFC mp5 variable power floating valve set..l forgot who it was made by. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 I'd rather be hit by a single .3 than 15 .2's, but the heavier whack of a .3 definitely helps when you're only hitting people with one or two shots. As for lowering FPS without an NPAS, I've always just cut down the inner barrel; Admittedly you don't have any adjustability, but I've never suffered a loss in performance as a result. My old WOC had a 6" inner barrel and the thing was a tack driver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) While there is many ways to skin a cat, I prefer re-design principles of: - Modding as close to the source/cause. (i.e. modding the part that is the cause of the issue) - Efficiency (i.e. modding without wasteage, or potential decrease in performance) - Small mods over large ones (i.e. if one can solve problems by shaving off/adding 3mm off a tooth/valve/material, then its better than major surgery) - Modularity (i.e. modding as least parts as possible so that if other parts fail you don't have to re-mod 3 or 4 different parts) - Sustainable/reversible. (i.e. increases durability) Cutting off a barrel to lower FPS is basically against most of these design principles. While it may seem to work for you in a 330fps environment where accuracy of a 6" barrel is sufficient to give you precision shots up to 30-40m, for users in areas where power levels are higher, modding the barrel length will decrease performance over that range and disadvantage the user. Modding/changing the valve is clearly the better option, otherwise the other option is to add O-rings to the floating valve stopper so the floating valve sits more forward, decreasing the time the valve feeds gas to the breech. This maintains gas efficiency while not sacrificing potential accuracy, and does not involve major invasive surgery. Edited April 9, 2013 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 I agree, I notice top end accuracy is best for me with the K length barrel at 1.5J, my C barrel can reach out there but my grouping isn't as nice. I dropped the NPAS in my bolt with my K length barrel and it netted me 1.5j so hopefully it doesn't change on me as I use it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 I did notice with my G39C that my FPS stopped fluctuating and increased 40fps when I wrapped a layer of teflon tape around the hop rubber and barrel. This mod seems to increase fps on G39s, M14s, PDWs, but not AKs, M4s, SCAR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted April 15, 2013 Report Share Posted April 15, 2013 Bit of an update: One mag spontaneously decided to leak after I filled it with gas, will probably just have to take it down, oil the valve and o-ring and it'll be back to normal. A more worrying development is that when cocking the rifle whilst on FA, the trigger won't engage and drop the hammer, I have to switch to Semi or Safe and back again for it to engage. I've noticed that the trigger goes marginally a bit farther forward when cocking on FA than on Semi. Anyone else experience this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted April 16, 2013 Report Share Posted April 16, 2013 We have that problem too, started happening during a function test and now full auto only works intermittently. Can't find a fix online for the life of me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dazdarren Posted April 17, 2013 Report Share Posted April 17, 2013 Hi guys, so I have a problem with my g39 The bolt will not lock back either after the last round has been fired, or when and empty mag is in and the charging handle is pulled back. I have heavily oiled it with silicon oil from a spray can, and tightened the flathead screw just enough that it does not hinder the spring. Sometimes when I pull the charging handle back with an empty mag in it will lock back, but will go back forward when the mag is released. Anyone know the fix to this? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted April 27, 2013 Report Share Posted April 27, 2013 My mag is leaking out of the fill-valve. Not around the edges, but from the little nozzle itself, like it isn't closing properly after filling. I've taken the mag apart and lubed it, still no luck. Is there anyway to fix it? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted April 28, 2013 Report Share Posted April 28, 2013 Did you take apart the nozzle inside the full valve? I had that problem with my WE M4 mag, the Oring had moved out of place Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 Took it apart just there, as far as I could get it, I didn't notice any o-rings in the first place. I think maybe the valve spring isn't strong enough, I'm going to try it replacing it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 (edited) That's weird. There should be an Oring on the piece inside, the nozzle itself inside the valve. Sort of like the bottom one here Edited April 29, 2013 by PreacherMan 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 How do you get the nozzle out of the fill valve in the first place? Mine seems to be stuck in the fill valve. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted April 29, 2013 Report Share Posted April 29, 2013 I pushed mine out with a hex key, after I screwed off the back part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 (edited) The O-ring was so out of place that the nozzle was stuck in there good. Took it apart, reseated it, and it's all good now. I think I was pressing in the gas cannister a bit too hard. EDIT: One problem after another! Here I go again: When on semi, it would randomly fire a burst. I suspect this was due to one of mags which is a bit dodgy (the inner, metal part of the mag isn't secured to the plastic housing, and is able to go up into the bolt area). Eventually it jammed two BBs, one into the hop and one in the feed-ramp. Then, after all that excitement, my G39 doesn't want to fire any of my mags properly. It only releases a tiny, tiny bit of gas, enough to propel the BB with a decent velocity but not enough to chamber another round. I took it apart and everything seems fine. Could it have something to do with the NPAS? Thanks. Edited April 30, 2013 by AG1212 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted April 30, 2013 Report Share Posted April 30, 2013 Hammer spring? My WE AK had a broken hammer spring and that exact problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 (edited) But the hammer seems to function fine apart from pre-existing issues. It drops as hard as it did before, or so far as I can tell. And thanks for your help m8, I really appreciate it. Edited May 1, 2013 by AG1212 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PreacherMan Posted May 1, 2013 Report Share Posted May 1, 2013 No worries! Sadly I'm not sure about this issue. Have you taken a look at the NPAS? One time, I took it apart to find that the entire unit had unscrewed itself over time, had to loctite it back in place. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted May 2, 2013 Report Share Posted May 2, 2013 Well I took apart the trigger group and it turns out my valve-locker is snapped in half. Could that be the cause of the issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted May 11, 2013 Report Share Posted May 11, 2013 Does anyone know where I can buy a new valve-locker? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 (edited) Valve Locker, maybe ratech do a steel one check AST for availability. Edited May 12, 2013 by icolater Quote Link to post Share on other sites
icolater Posted May 12, 2013 Report Share Posted May 12, 2013 Airsoft Tawain have WE valve lockers in stock (just checked) 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted May 13, 2013 Report Share Posted May 13, 2013 Thanks a mil' Quote Link to post Share on other sites
AG1212 Posted May 27, 2013 Report Share Posted May 27, 2013 Right, it turns out that 'normal' WE valve-lockers don't work in the G39. The G39's valve-locker is wider So, anyone know where I can get the original part? WE doesn't seem to respond to emails... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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