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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Do note that the outer barrel wobbles most when the handguard is off. With the hand guard on, barrel wobble is significantly reduced.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

 

Yeah but the hand guard hides the inaccuracy.  Basically if you push the foregrip left and right the fall of shot will shift, which is NOT what we want in any rifle.

 

Ideally you need to free float the barrel so that no matter how you apply pressure onto the handguard it doesn't affect the accuracy in any way.

 

There are three sources of inaccuracy in the G39E outer barrel system:

 

- Outer barrel to barrel breech interface

- Barrel breech interface to barrel trunnion

- Barrel Trunnion to receiver.

 

The barrel nut will only fix the 2nd problem, which can be fixed using an AR15 barrel shim.

 

Issue is that the outer barrel still wobbles like a mofo for a G39E, and the Barrel Trunnion will still wobble even after the barrel nut is tightened.

 

So no there is not a one stop shop solution.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Telfon deforms over time.

 

I use aluminium sheets from coke cans between the outer barrel and barrel breech interface, and between the Trunnion and upper receiver.

 

I use an AR Barrel shim on the barrel nut.

 

No wobble after that.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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I don't have a photo, but here is what I can do in MS paint, by no means a CAD drawing but its as good as Paint can get for technical drawings.

 

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/gallery/image/15103-we-g39e-barrel-fix/

 

This also requires free floating of hand-guard to the outer barrel by removing the tabs from the hand-guard which slides onto the gas block.  I used a soldering Iron to melt the tabs and then chiseled it out.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Did some work on Calbur20s G36. 3vi1-D4n's barrel wobble fix worked excellently. I also reinforced the bolt carrier as it was already getting chewed up by the steel hammer. Basically I made a steel plate at the back sort of like the metal reinforcement on TM 1911 slides.

 

Chewed out pot metal bolt carrier

IMG_6253.jpg

 

2mm steel plate and carrier modified to fit it (just to accommodate the tab really)

IMG_6256.jpg

IMG_6255.jpg

 

Dry fit

IMG_6258.jpg

IMG_6257.jpg

 

I've epoxied it on too apart from that screw but didn't bother posting the pics.

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Ooh nice, I always wondered if you could do something like that, allowing you to use durable steel FCG parts but a light pot metal bolt for better efficiency. Couple questions: does the steel part sitting slightly lower than the bottom of the bolt cause an problems? And what does the screw thread into?

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If the tab part isn't flush with the runners already on the bolt carrier then it could snag against the hammer particularly if it's lower with a pronounced hump. Most pistols actually have a sort of hump but have a long ramp leading to it so it would probably work the same with rifles as long as you make the transition between the pot metal and the steel sloping. The screw threads into the carrier itself. Had to drill and tap it.

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I'm having bolt lock issues again. Half my mags lock-back, a 1/4 lock back and then return to battery when I removed the mag (just to troll me whilst getting shot at), and the rest just don't lock back at all, just sorta interrupt the bolt a little when empty.

 

The bolt-lock latch on the mags all seem equally worn down. I've tried changing the mag springs and worked for a while but they quickly lost strength. Would shrink-wrapping the bolt-catch where it meets the bolt and/or where it interfaces with the mag work?

 

Haven't tried it as I have none.

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I installed a UFC 3.5x scope + Red dot carrying handle.

 

The red dot is garbage.  

- It  doesn't even zero properly.  The return springs on the red dot is very weak hence why it doesn't zero at all.  

- The battery compartment cap also pops out spontaneously and will require modification (I carved out a channel and inserted an O-ring into the cap so the compartment stays in place + waterproofing).

- The red dot is fuzzy and isn't very sharp.  Works ok as a SHTF backup sight.

 

 

However the 3.5x scope works fine.  Its a glass etched scope so it changes contrast with different lighting, and that holds zero fine even with the recoil on the WE G36.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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Would shrink-wrapping the bolt-catch where it meets the bolt and/or where it interfaces with the mag work?

 

Just get an old credit card or something similar (plasticard, old Tupperware etc), cut a strip out of it and super glue it under the bolt catch as a spacer where it meets the mag. And make sure the screw holding the catch is on tight as excess slop can cause the catch to tilt wiggling itself loose when it tries to catch the bolt.
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What brand of carry handle with built-in scope will fit on WE? I have seen some carry handle w/ scope (I think it's for AEG) on internet but might lose it's zero due to recoil. Thanks

 I think any carry handle will fit.  As for losing zero, I had this problem with a few.  If you take the scope apart, you will find the optic tube is actually two parts, an outer tube that has slots for adjustment, and the inner tube.  It is the inner tube moving around that causes you to lose zero.  You can apply some super glue around the ends of the tubes, where you can see the seam between the inner and outer tube.  I did this and it solved all my problems, been running it for months with no loss, and you retain full ability to adjust the optic to whatever POI you want

Edited by Seraphim989
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My Army G36C recently arrived. Since I believe it's a copy of the WE system, I thought I might ask here.

 

The nozzle (plastic part that takes the BBs into the barrel and also has the gas intake) does not go back when the bolt ist pulled back, either bey hand, or by the blowback action. The nozzle sticks to the hop up chamber and needs to be helpe by hand to go back.

 

It looks to me as if the tolerances are out of wack and I should sand something down, but Im not sure.

 

Opinions? Thanks!

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I believe its something at the front of the nozzle (or maybe the hop up chamber) as it only sticks when it's in the chamber. When the bolt is back and Ive freed it by hand, it moves in the bolt freely. So I do not think it's the o-ring.

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