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Does the NPAS just asjust the FPS or boost it?

 

Also on the side of rocket valves, ive personally never used them, what to they do? Bigger recoil, higher FPS, higher ROF?

 

On the Mags -

I gassed them inside but loaded them outside, so the final magazines would have been outside for around 30 odd minutes. Tis all good :D

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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Rocket valve aka floating valve, aka something else probably, is the valve inside the loading nozzle that regulates gas flow from the magazine, down the barrel & to the blow back action. It's the thing you replace with the NPAS (which is the adjustable one), allowing you to lower the FPS to keep under site limits.

 

You're probably thinking of high-flow valves (which is the release/outlet valve on the magazine). I've never used them, so I wouldn't know.

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I have heard that the RATECH NPAS for WE Open Bolt works but that the G39C needs to be modified to work. Has anyone installed it yet? How was the process?

 

Also, RATECH was initially advertising that the Open bolt carrier ($50) worked with the G39C, but when mine arrived it didn't fit. They have removed the G39C from the product description but other sites selling this might still have the old details.

 

Still curious to know what I might have to do to my G39 to add the NPAS.

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i prefer to uppgrade everything i can, i dont trust pot-metal

Upgrade everything and you'll need a new thread to cover all the issues that will eventually (and rather quickly) arise since you will essentially have a non-WE spec weapon.

 

You may notice the stark absence of issues with the WE G39c in this thread. Anything that has cropped up has been largely on-off and minor. Have faith :)

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We'll find out after users go past 15,000 rounds. If the ignition parts are made of the same material as with their M4, they'll last about that long before wear and tear starts causing the hammer to slip and fire uncontrollably.

edit:

Not that I'm discouraging anybody, just saying. Those parts are a $15 replacement anyway.

Edited by renegadecow
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Which internal upgrades DO fit in G36?

 

Sear & hammer?

etc, etc

 

Well apart from the trigger cage itself everything else on the trigger assembly should be compatible with the old trigger components, so you could just buy the complete trigger assembly from RA-tech, http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/html/rag/rag_we_detail/rag_we_detail_024.php

 

But to be honest, apart from the valve locker and firing pin base, even my very old and used M4 v1 is still using the stock trigger group ( and i even have 5 kits of CWI's steel forged trigger assemblies laying around ;) ), although i had to mod it past the 15~20k rounds mark.

 

You shouldn't have to worry about anything breaking for quite awhile, at least until WE's releases Co2 mags :D

 

EDIT:

Lol renegadecow beat me to it :P

Edited by danielsilva
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My little review:

 

Bought one today, out of boredom over the Xmas holiday.

 

OOTB:

 

+ Fairly solid, good sturdy construction

+ Recoil is forceful and sharp, nearly INOKATSU but more than a VIPER/JDT bolt, knocks the sox off VFC, AGM, WOC, KA, WE PDW, GHK AK etc. Yes the recoil is closer to a 9mm than a 5.56mm.

+ Steel one piece barrel.

+ Replicates gas piston assembly, realistic field strip etc.

 

- At 22*C, out of the box with a 10" barrel it shoots at around 350fps, maxing around 370fps and after 15 shots drops to 330fps. Power IS low as the 8" PDW is nearly the same FPS. Compared with a 10" VFC M4 at the same temperature is above 400fps it is comparatively low powered.

- Barrel wobbles OOTB, and is due to having an O-ring for the barrel shims.

- Inconsistent power

- over hop on 0.25g

 

So I went along and tuned it.

 

The inconsistent power, is due to the wobbly barrel. Solution is to find M4 barrel shims and replace the Barrel Oring with them.

 

The power power is because the Hop rubber doesn't seal with the blowback nozzle. This can be remedied with applying sports tape around the front of the hop rubber, constricting the hop rubber and seal better gas. This raises FPS to the same power level as the VFC 10" M4s.

 

The overhopping is solved by replacing the solid hop nub on the WE with a hollow AEG hop nub.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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did exactly the same, i wrapped a single slice of electrical tape around the hop rubber. its now tight enough to catch the loading nozzle before the spring pulls it back. i also shaved 1mm off the part where the float valve is sitting. the float valve is now positioned 1mm further back than before. i also cut up 2 of the four pillars of the float valve. after the mods fps increased up to 30fps while recoil stayed the same.

 

i also replaced the hop nub with a smaller diameter cut -up oring, and will probably use a hollow aeg nub next time. i dont get the barrel shim cause i dont have any, where is that shim located? the inner barrel is indeed wobbly but was remedied with pumbers tape and loctite on the screws.

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Barrel shims are for AR15 barrels, usually aftermarket AR15 RIS or outer barrel sets have a ton of these shims included.

 

Just remove the O-ring and tighten, it should work ok too.

 

 

Yeah I also did the same mods except I had the valve sit 2mm back, modded the flute valve to be high flow (bored out plus removed 2 struts which isn't the best idea). I also bored out the nozzle so the inner diameter is the same as the inner diameter off a close bolt system.

 

I will chrono when I get a chance. From penetration tests its now outpowering the VFC M4 on the same barrel length. Its quite nice atm.

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So no one tried to use a stronger floating valve spring ? I also got FPS/power variations improvement with the sealing Laylax VSR bucking. I just bought a few spring sets/high flow floating valves made by Silverback and ordered an extra nozzle so i'll try different setups and see how much FPS's each mod gives me. I'll be testing them with the M14 however, but it should at least shed some light on which mods result better.

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I tried a strengthened valve spring on the PDW, but it just cooled down faster with little FPS gain. It does release more gas but with such a short barrel its not really that useful for accelerating the BB. But I haven't tried this with the G36/G39.

 

Oh yeah silverback floating vales require modification to fit the PDW which I assume to be in similar dimension to the G36/G39

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I tried a strengthened valve spring on the PDW, but it just cooled down faster with little FPS gain. It does release more gas but with such a short barrel its not really that useful for accelerating the BB. But I haven't tried this with the G36/G39.

 

Oh yeah silverback floating vales require modification to fit the PDW which I assume to be in similar dimension to the G36/G39

 

Are you talking about modifying the floating valve itself or the PDW's nozzle ? I figured as much though and ordered a couple and also a couple of spare nozzles :D

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