Jump to content
-Clover-

WE G39C GBB

Recommended Posts

Mine is coming in Tuesday. I have some questions for you guys that have been tinkering with it!

What barrels can this take? (Thinking of converting this into G36K really soon after getting it :rolleyes:)

Also, do any airsoft makers make rails like this?: http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/G36-SL8-Full-Low-Profile-Picatinny-Rail-187p1514.htm

Or do you know where I can find that rail in European Union shops?

 

Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is coming in Tuesday. I have some questions for you guys that have been tinkering with it!

What barrels can this take? (Thinking of converting this into G36K really soon after getting it :rolleyes:)

Also, do any airsoft makers make rails like this?: http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/G36-SL8-Full-Low-Profile-Picatinny-Rail-187p1514.htm

Or do you know where I can find that rail in European Union shops?

 

Cheers!

 

AEG barrels.

 

I for instance used the RA Tech precision inner 6.01 inner barrel for the WE M14, wich is 505mm long :) So, it can take a lot :)

Edited by Riko

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

AEG barrels.

 

..............

 

Sorry to disagree but more precisely those RA-Tech barrels are not the regular off the mill AEG ones actually, as you already know, they are AEG compatible.

 

They look as if they start the manufacturing process with an AEG barrel, then they've additional cuts or grooves performed that can accommodate a TM VSR style bucking. Maybe this is the reason that these new barrels are cheaper than those for the AWSS platform.

 

Your statement implies that any AEG inner barrel would fit, not flammin you :flamed: , just to clarify to someone that might see this info the first time... Regards...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are basically VSR barrels but instead of beeing hold to the hopup unit by 2 tabs, WE uses 4. So either you get WE specific barrels or get VSR barrels and proceed to remove those 2 extra tabs from the hopup unit.

 

AEG barrels will NOT function unless you have access to a lathe/mill so that you can cut the groove that accomodates the extra tab from the VSR buck. You could remove/cut that extra material from the VSR and/or file the inner manually but you'll end up with a poor job.

 

@ Dan

 

I was talking about the hopup rubber/bucking itself. I got different results from the stock one over/between my 3 m14's. Maybe a different bucking will help you, my inner barrel also wobbled a bit making the FPS fluctuate a bit, with that fixed and with some teflon on the hopup, now the m14 shoots great.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Mine is coming in Tuesday. I have some questions for you guys that have been tinkering with it!

What barrels can this take? (Thinking of converting this into G36K really soon after getting it :rolleyes:)

Also, do any airsoft makers make rails like this?: http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/G36-SL8-Full-Low-Profile-Picatinny-Rail-187p1514.htm

Or do you know where I can find that rail in European Union shops?

 

Cheers!

 

As I know WE will release a kit for G36K so if you can wait... otherwise I think you can find some info back in this thread...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and a new question.

 

I bought a Magpul MS2 sling and I am wondering what swivel (frond and side) to buy.

 

I found http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/first-factory-side-sling-swivel-for-g36c.html for the side ( I assume that fits in WE G39) and I was wandering for the frond (I cound use a RIS swivel but...)

 

Does anyone has something to propose or to share his experience

 

Thanks in advance..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

and a new question.

 

I bought a Magpul MS2 sling and I am wondering what swivel (frond and side) to buy.

 

I found http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/first-factory-side-sling-swivel-for-g36c.html for the side ( I assume that fits in WE G39) and I was wandering for the frond (I cound use a RIS swivel but...)

 

Does anyone has something to propose or to share his experience

 

Thanks in advance..

This thing comes with a washer which doesn't fit the WE39C. The default width of the prongs is a little to narrow for the WE39C too but you can stretch/widen it - after doing so though, it doesn't swivel since it's too tight.

 

In other words, it's not designed for it, it doesn't fit nicely, but if forced, can do so.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This thing comes with a washer which doesn't fit the WE39C. The default width of the prongs is a little to narrow for the WE39C too but you can stretch/widen it - after doing so though, it doesn't swivel since it's too tight.

 

In other words, it's not designed for it, it doesn't fit nicely, but if forced, can do so.

 

Any recommendation for something else?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

They are basically VSR barrels but instead of beeing hold to the hopup unit by 2 tabs, WE uses 4. So either you get WE specific barrels or get VSR barrels and proceed to remove those 2 extra tabs from the hopup unit.

 

AEG barrels will NOT function unless you have access to a lathe/mill so that you can cut the groove that accomodates the extra tab from the VSR buck. You could remove/cut that extra material from the VSR and/or file the inner manually but you'll end up with a poor job.

 

Thanks, very informative. I got a little confused with WE barrels after they changed their system to the new one. :rolleyes:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry to disagree but more precisely those RA-Tech barrels are not the regular off the mill AEG ones actually, as you already know, they are AEG compatible.

 

They look as if they start the manufacturing process with an AEG barrel, then they've additional cuts or grooves performed that can accommodate a TM VSR style bucking. Maybe this is the reason that these new barrels are cheaper than those for the AWSS platform.

 

Your statement implies that any AEG inner barrel would fit, not flammin you :flamed: , just to clarify to someone that might see this info the first time... Regards...

 

no offence taken ;) you are right to correct me!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My roller and pin keep on falling out of my hammer. Anyone have any solutions? I might try to super glue it. If I buy a new one should I go for the RA tech or just the WE?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Watch out for the capillary action of CA glue. My pin did the same thing and the CA almost stuck the roller solid. Took a cleaning to get it rolling again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Any recommendation for something else?

 

Paracord, with the proper knot it makes a dandy sling adapter for holes too small for certain slings. And you should be able to pick some up from your local army surplus for pretty cheap.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My roller and pin keep on falling out of my hammer. Anyone have any solutions? I might try to super glue it. If I buy a new one should I go for the RA tech or just the WE?

 

no need to use super glue, the most simple way is to make the rough part of part #138 (pin) more rough. You can use a wire cutter.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright guys,

I got myself a Npas set for this from RA-Tech and Im trying to get it fitted right. I've modified the nozzle spring as shown on their website and I've also modified the nozzle like the PDW nozzle link they have. No matter what I adjust the Npas too it still fires around 380fps. My limit is 360fps max!

Do I need to modify my nozzle like in the M14 link or what? Would be so much easier if they had a link for a G39c nozzle...

 

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

no need to use super glue, the most simple way is to make the rough part of part #138 (pin) more rough. You can use a wire cutter.

 

It's so small it just falls through when I put the pin in.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, first skirmish that I have had with my gun, and I have had a few issues. The first is that I find the mags tricky to reload. Not the biggest issue in the world, but I do not like those tube loaders that come with the gun, and reloading can sometimes be very time consuming. That is the first thing. The second was that out of the three mags that I was using, they were getting quite a few problems with jams, probably down to needing to be used a few times, but still an issue that concerns me for future use. The third issue was that on a few occasions I got a double feed, meaning that it left my chamber empty for when I needed it, and costing me a good shot which did nothing until shot two. I was using the gun on single shot, as I found that full auto did give me too much cooldown still, and with only 30 rounds you tend to make the shots count as much as possible.

 

As far as the hop is concerned, it took a few mags to start to bed it in, and will probably take a few more to settle it comepletely, but from the posts above I decided to use .28 from the start. I did have to set the hop up a littel bit, so maybe .25 would have been better suited for my gun, but I am happy to use .28 and was hitting the same spot shot after shot after shot, something that I couldnt do with my pistol, which is pretty fine tuned!

 

I shall post a couple of pictures of me using this gun as soon as they are available to me.

Edited by Spencerman

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I find the tube loader the best one to use thus far.

Does take time but it is by far the easiest.

 

 

Not had a jam in mine yet, what brand BB`s are you using?

No double feeds either for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In the beginning i also used the tube loader that came with the M14, but now i just use a common pistol speed loader and i can almost load my M14 mags as fast as i can load AEG ones. It's a matter of getting to know how to do it ( check the Ra-tech/WE videos where they are using speed loaders, i use the same technique ).

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

To use the auto loaders, fingers need to direct the BBs into the mag.

 

Since im a big cheater and lazy instead of using my fingers to channel the BBs, i sourced a piece of rectangular plastic tube with roughly the same size as the feeding lips and use that to channel the BBs.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, here are the pictures that I promised (you will have to excuse the fat ugly bloke that manage to squezze his way into the frame, as that is me!)....

 

Bang2c.jpg

 

Bang2e.jpg

 

Dont ask me the temperature was as I have no idea, but it was cold and damp, and this was near the end of the day. I am not sure of the brand of bb that I was using, as I was trying different weights to see what I like better/what hurts more when I shoot people ;) . As the jams that I experienced happened in all three mags, and a few times I dribbled the bb out of the end I would imagine that it is down to the brand of bb, but more mags and more rounds through, and a good lubing up wouldnt hurt! I plan to try a few different speed loaders to find out what I like best, but as one of my cheapo ones keep opening up under the pressure as I tried to plunge it, I would also assume that the quality of the loader is also part of the problem there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.