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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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Already have an old steel valve lock and knocker from RA-Tech which I used from my PDW.

Just need the disconnecter and hammer.

 

Does anyone do a steel g36 trigger?

I suspect leaving the stock one in there amongst the steel parts will wear it down quickly.

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Well you *could* use the original trigger and just mod it, reinforcing the part of the trigger that engages the hammer. That's what some people ( me included ) was doing back in the day where such aftermarket solutions didnt exist. See the following post to understand what i'm talking about, http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=170736&st=6360 ( just scroll down until you see the post i'm talking about ).

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Is it just me or the nozzle does not fully retract? I notice my Main Nozzle O-Ring seem to be a size larger.

 

It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring.

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It is supposed to be a tight fit and provide a good seal. If the nozzle isn't retracting fully or has difficulty to do so it's a sign that you need to clean and lub the guiding rails and lub the o-ring.

I look again today, The lube was still relatively clear on the inside. What I did found out was that the two plastic tabs keeping the nozzle in was responsible for the nozzle failure to fully retract. If I back the screw out on turn from the tightest, (still no play for the plastic pieces to move) the nozzle can easily fully retract. I'm thinking to use a lil bit of loctite, but I'll keep it as is (200 round later I'll check if it move or not)

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I used silicone oil on my bolt and its working just fine. I also put in a concave hop nub, and though it doesn't overhop, it still shoots somewhat high, with .20's, .25's, and .30's. I lined up my sights properly by using washers between the screw and the rear sight, but wish I didn't have to do that since the screw is a little visible in the rear sight. Does anyone know of any affordable scoped carry handles that can handle the recoil?

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I also put in a concave hop nub, and though it doesn't overhop, it still shoots somewhat high, with .20's, .25's, and .30's.

 

 

I'm confused, with the SCS nub it is still overhopping? (0.25g+) What is the weight needed to get a stable flight path? The original I heard was somewhere 0.4g+

Question, does the bb still fall out if you turn hop off and barrel pointing down? (I notice RA-Tech rubber+ stock nub does this up to 10-15% hop on)

 

 

i use the CA carry handle w/scope and it handles the recoil fine, haven't lost its zero...

 

Where do you find the CA scope by it self? I don't trust the ARES enough for handle recoil.

Edited by kullwarrior
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What I did found out was that the two plastic tabs keeping the nozzle in was responsible for the nozzle failure to fully retract. If I back the screw out on turn from the tightest, (still no play for the plastic pieces to move) the nozzle can easily fully retract. I'm thinking to use a lil bit of loctite, but I'll keep it as is (200 round later I'll check if it move or not)

 

Yes those were the guiding rails i was talking about.

 

Question, does the bb still fall out if you turn hop off and barrel pointing down? (I notice RA-Tech rubber+ stock nub does this up to 10-15% hop on)

 

If you're using the RAT hopup rubber that's actually to be expected, i found that the "nub" inside the RAT hopup rubber is too big for the hopup hole/window of the inner barrel and thus doesn't contact with the BB unless you apply quite a bit pressure into it.

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Hmm, question (since I dont have longer range available to see hopup takes into effect)

 

Does the RA-Tech bucking+stock nub one overhop on 0.25, 0.28, 0.30g? I've heard the Stock Nub+bucking will overhop even 0.36g?

 

Do you guys recommand going to SCS nub or is the RA-T Bucking+Stock nub sufficient?

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Ok so finally got my G36 going again! Got semi auto back! After firing about 200 more rounds through it seemed to settle and be ok so Im happy.

 

though not really getting the range I want from the Massive inner barrel (44cm). Only using .28s at the minute but im going to try some .34gs see if I get what I want!

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I find the RA-T bucking to suck donkey balls. I've been using the Element H nub + Nineball combo with great results on the M14 ( without the nub of course ), G39 and SCAR. My next target is using it with the M16 as soon as it arrives.

I'm still noticing bb falling out switching back sto Stock Bucking but with White H-Hop nub

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I'm still noticing bb falling out switching back sto Stock Bucking but with White H-Hop nub

Sorry to double post I cant find the editing button anymore

 

I finally got my chrono.

I found using the RA-Tech rubber the fps on max increase 50fps

 

Also does anyone know what is the purpose of trimming the nozzle on step 8 of installing RA-Tech NPAS?

 

http://en.ratech.com.tw/product/teaching/teaching_5.php

 

 

I can't seem to decrease my gun's fps down enough. the lowest is 380, highest at 470. Was hoping to get it to 350.

 

Gun spec:

-RA-Tech G36E Innerbarrel, bucking, Trigger set, and NPAS (FPS set lowest with the overall length at 18.18mm

 

I really don't want to switch to a K length over this.

Edited by kullwarrior
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Already have an old steel valve lock and knocker from RA-Tech which I used from my PDW.

Just need the disconnecter and hammer.

 

Does anyone do a steel g36 trigger?

I suspect leaving the stock one in there amongst the steel parts will wear it down quickly.

 

I found this on Jonhy's ( Ra-Tech ) facebook page, so it may not be too far long until you can get them :D

 

252103_227466123932257_100000066126896_1026602_7398658_n.jpg

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trimming the nozzle allows you to raise the FPS more with the NPAS, i found not trimming it seems to be the only way to get sub 350 speeds on GG or propane

 

Yeah, my nozzle came pre-trimmed from RA-Tech (I bought a "custom" jobbie from them) and I had to lengthen it with a piece from an old pen to get it firing below 350 with the NPAS.

Amazingly it's holding together, though I really really want a new non-molested nozzle for it...

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