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WE G39C GBB

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I received an answer back from RA-Tech, regarding my question about the possibility of seeing a steel G39 bolt carrier:

 

"Dear Rob,

 

 

Thank you for emailing us. We are not yet be able to produce G39 bolt carrier as the producing line is pretty busy with a few kind of new products. You know that WE just released their AK.

 

 

Please keep an eye on our website for the news release.

 

 

Best regards,

 

 

Erica RA-TECH"

 

I don't know what to read into that, but it doesn't sound like we should expect to see it anyime soon. :(

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I don't know what to read into that, but it doesn't sound like we should expect to see it anyime soon. :(

Johnny told me the prototype is there, they just don't know if its profitable to market it. He says at the earliest (if there's enough demand) Christmas.

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Cheers They didn't have a high flow in but I got a standard as a spare.

I ve found with the NPAS and shaving down the nozzle tangs to approx 1.9mm that tphe fps is a little variable, ranging from 290 fps to 340 fps. I though best get a spare in case :) I was hoping with a hihgh flow i could just drop it in with the npas.

(i don't have a mmilling machine tomget to 1.82mm :) ) The two tangs were 3 mm as standard and i couldn 't get above 220 fps with the npas ( although the chrono did measure the propane exiting at 1438 fps once)

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I hope i dont get punished for double post, but its necessary!

 

Everybody, who got an FB account should go on the RA site and push like on Henning Deutsch's post.....yes thats me...yes i'm manly and on the otherhand cute and handsome!

 

So we can push RA-Tech to the limit and beyond!

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The other option is do as per m14, which is pretty much the same with the exception of shaving down the final tangs to 1.84 mm rather than chopping them off and cutting groves. I sanded mine from 3mm or so to 1.9 mm and that gave me and adjustable range from 260 fps up to about 370 at room temperature, which is fine.

 

You could try that first then cut down to the linked article if it doesn't suit you.

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Unless you're want a 400fps compact version DO NOT SHAVE THE NOZZLE

They will allow the fps to be excessively high my custom RA-Tech G39E shoots 650 fps @ 25C when the NPAS is set highest (lowest fps possible was 450)

Using a new nozzle without shaving the fps is 350-475 @ 25C much more acceptable.

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Kullwarrior, did you ever try my little trick of dropping a rubber O-ring in on top of the NPAS? On my "Canadian market version" G39, that neatly shaves 100+ fps off the velocity. The size of O-ring needed is the same as the one WE uses in the base of their BB loaders.

 

While I'm posting in... VFC has introduced a airsoft replica of the German LLM01 Laser Light Module for their G36.

 

LLM01.jpg

 

They also offer a short section of rail to allow mounting the light on the side of any G36/39 top rail. You can probably get these accessories at many retailers, but I've seen it on WGC's website. The light goes for $89 USD, the rail goes for $13 USD.

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Kullwarrior, did you ever try my little trick of dropping a rubber O-ring in on top of the NPAS? On my "Canadian market version" G39, that neatly shaves 100+ fps off the velocity. The size of O-ring needed is the same as the one WE uses in the base of their BB loaders.

You never told me how its done so no

Picture helps alot as words don't translate to picture for me unfortunately.

 

Also for the LLM01

Element is releasing its clone coming soon see their facebook page

Edited by kullwarrior

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Kullwarrior, no problem. Next time I tear down my G39, I'll make sure to take a photo of my O-ring mod. :)

 

For anyone else dealing with overly high velocities, all I do is install the NPAS, seat the O-ring on top of it - seated flat, then reassemble the bolt. The O-ring mod works perfectly well, but you could also use some type of adhesive material applied to the flat surface of the NPAS valve. The whole idea is to prevent the NPAS from opening fully. Anything placed between the NPAS valve and the two lugs/prongs on the rear bolt half will do the job. The thickness of the object determines the effect on fps.

 

Keep in mind, my mod is intended for rifles which shoot too hot. Kullwarrior's rifle is a custom version from RA-Tech, and mine is a special model from WE intended for sale only in the Canadian market. Each shoots hotter than standard G39s from WE.

 

I had heard Element plans to also introduce a version of the LLM01 tactical light. Their website suggests it's still a month away from going on sale.

 

20111013162456649.jpg

 

 

I don't know much about Element. How do their products general rank compared to VFC of other airsoft brands?

Edited by Basic-Wedge

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Unless you're want a 400fps compact version DO NOT SHAVE THE NOZZLE

They will allow the fps to be excessively high my custom RA-Tech G39E shoots 650 fps @ 25C when the NPAS is set highest (lowest fps possible was 450)

Using a new nozzle without shaving the fps is 350-475 @ 25C much more acceptable.

Why would I need a new nozzle? What new nozzle would I need- assuming it's different from the stock nozzle?

 

I would certainly prefer not to shave the nozzle.

 

Thank you

Tony

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When he wrote "new" nozzle, I believe Kullwarrior was referring to a stock/unmodified nozzle, such as the type included in standard model WE G39s. At least, that's how I interpret his meaning.

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You may have to contact WE at www.weairsoft.com directly for that part.

 

How did it break Henning? I would more expect the tongue of the lever arm (part #?) to break, rather than the grooved part #24...

 

If that were to happen with my G39, I'm not sure I'd even notice. I always have to dial my hop up to the full off position to avoid overhop issues. Even with an RA-Tech bucking and a Shredder concave nub, I still get more hop up than I want.

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Hey Basic,

sorry for my late answer on your question.

 

So, while i was disassembling my hop-up unit to wrap some teflon-tape around it, i just thought by my self that it would be better to add a H-shaped hopup bucking to the RA Tech rubber.

When i finished the wrapping, i was going to reassamble the hole hop up.

I tried to stick the hole chamber into this massive block part # 27...then certainly it got stuck and was not fitting well.

I just thought with my gross motor skills: "if force doesnt help you just use brute force instead".

While i was trying to push it inside, part #23 was grooving the *suitcase* out of part#24.

Now it is nothing left than a worthless piece of plastic...

 

71077_240550535361_5676708_n.jpg

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