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WE G39C GBB

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Thanks for the tips guys.

 

Replaced the hop nub with an h-nub, but I have no way of testing if it's better since I have no outdoor area to shoot at the moment. With hop all the way down, BBs will roll out of the barrel though.

 

I have to say this is probably the easiest gun to take apart I've ever owned.

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Any type of teflon grease will do. Over here we have the brand Finish Line grease for bicycles, not sure if you have the same in the US.

 

 

Another tip, take the pistol grip/fire controls out, and add a dab of superglue to either side of the hammer, where the pin sits for the bearing. Stops it sliding out :)

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Roger that, I'll give that superglue a try. I have quite a few friends here who ride bikes so I'm sure I won't have any trouble tracking down some teflon grease.

 

I managed to get the flash hider off yesterday, used some vice grips and a screwdriver. I chewed up my barrel a bit though, even with the towel on there. Oh well, I suppose I can try to sand it a bit and paint over it. That flash hider looked like it was glued and epoxied on, was a *bramston pickle* to remove.

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Sorry, can't help you there Redneck.

 

My tactical bolt release arrived yesterday, and it's a beautiful piece. The only problem I have with it though is that it fits a little too snugly. So when I release my bolt, it doesn't spring back, and I have to manually push the release back into place to get the bolt to lock again. I tried sanding it down a bit where it contacts the magwell but it didn't seem to do anything. Anyone else have this issue? I assume it will probably wear down with use...

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I'm a little afraid of using oil, just because I don't want to get it everywhere.

 

Girly? You guys must have some super-strength fingers. :P My mag changes are way quicker with the tac release.

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I rotate my hand slightly so I'm pressing it with the print of my finger rather than the side.

 

EDIT: When I say rotate, the top part of my palm is just off the grip.

Edited by ollie_ty

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Field report, first time out this weekend.

 

My G39k preformed beautifully. Weather was between 60-70degrees F. Bolt locked back every time. I have an H-nub installed, and after I got the hopup dialed in, I was shooting dead center of my EOTech, no adjustments needed. (using .25 BBs) My EOTech died halfway through the second game, so I used the iron sights and those were very accurate as well. I had one magazine fail on me, I pulled the trigger and it wasted all the gas. I'm thinking I put one BB too many in and it jammed. I was able to reload each magazine at least once, some twice, without running out of gas in them. I used a G&P M4 mag style reloader to reload my mags. The supplied adapter for pistol mags was useless, but I got along okay just guiding the BBs with my fingers. The best way I could find to load the mags was to keep pushing BBs in until the very top BB couldn't be pushed down at all, then flick that one out so it doesn't jam up the gun.

 

I did lose my rubber butt pad at one point, and lucky for me someone found it on the field and returned it to me. I'm thinking of maybe supergluing it in place though.

 

That teflon grease did the trick as well. Very very smooth action. Kept it on semi-auto the whole time to conserve ammo.

 

I'm definitely thinking my next purchase is going to be a railed front end and an AFG. I found myself too often holding the gun by the magwell, as it's a very comfortable position, but it doesn't make for the most stable shooting platform. I definitely had my aim thrown off a few times just by the kick on this gun. Other than that it is super accurate and I got a few kills at what I could guess would be 150-200 ft.

 

Thank you to everyone who contributed to this thread, it has been extremely helpful!!

 

I will be posting a video from the game soon if anyone is interested.

 

Also a picture for good measure. ;)

 

40661239-DSC_0205-2.jpg

Edited by TerranCmdr

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If I were you, I'd try and get a railed handguard from the SRC G36KV. 4 mount points looks the shizz with OR without rails screwed in. Either that or get the K length of the new Aluminium Handguards.

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I am thinking of picking one of these up. Just wondering what the major issues with these are? I don't mind tinkering with it, but I sure as hell don't want to be spending loads of cash to get it working.

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I've had exactly zero problems with mine so far. The only big issue I know of is the hop up nub being too strong, but I fixed that by putting an h-nub in instead. (super easy process to install) Since I installed the nub the gun is super accurate with .25 BBs. The magazines are a little difficult to load just because it's hard to know when to stop. If you don't mind using .27-.3 bbs, the gun will be skirmish-ready out of the box. Depending on who you get it from though, your magazine may arrive badly damaged. This happened to me twice, but I think it's more due to WE's *suitcasey* packaging more than anything else.

 

I would also recommend some teflon grease, just like ollie suggested. Really makes the action super smooth.

 

The only other thing I can think of is the fact that the bolt release is super stiff. Some people don't have a problem with it, but I did so I bought the tactical bolt release, which makes my reloads so much easier. I did sort of a comparison on my own though and you could just rack the charging handle when you reload without much penalty to your overall time.

 

Anyway, I say get one, it's the most fun I've ever had with an airsoft gun and as far as I can tell it's a very nicely built gun. Good luck!

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I learned a neat trick to lower the FPS of any WE based OB gun to acceptable levels from Renegade Cow. Basically, take a piece of polycarb plastic and make a hole smaller than the hole present in the nozzle. Make it as close to the shape and size of the opening at the back of the nozzle (right before where the spring sits when you take the nozzle it apart) and drop it in. The smaller size constricts the amount of propellant that powers the BB and drops the FPS. Did it to my WE AK and it went from 460 to 380. Same deal with my WE SCAR - from 500 to 400. Hope that helps.

 

Hey there people, any chance that some one has photos of said modification ?? would really like to try this with my vfc gbbr.. cheers :)

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Ok, for those that are still wandering about the reliability of this gun. I play almost every Sunday and for the last year I have played in most games with my G39C. It has fired A LOT of rounds, I don't know how many but they are easily beyond 20000.

Issues with the gun:

Valve knocker pin broken.

This can only be replaced with a part thats exclusive to the G39. This and the valve delayer. If you want to swap it out for a part from other WE systems, (M4 / PDW / SCAR) you have to change the valve delayer too.

IMG_0698_zps2b7a731b.jpg

From left to right: M4 Old, G39 (All), M4 New (I dont have a valve delayer that matches)

 

As you can see the hammers are the same so they are interchangable. The M4 valve knocker is dremmeled to the point it resembles the G39 one because I didnt have a matching delayer at the time. (Works good)

The new M4 valve knocker is completely different, and I dont know why WE have chosen to go that way, their old designs work just fine.

In my gun I have a valve knocker and delayer from the M4 (The ones on the left) and they have lasted around 10000 rounds with no signs of wear. I do believe proper lubrication is the key. (I use Abbey's graphite grease, works fine for me)

 

Hop Up

I have kept the stock nub and changed the rubber with a Red King Arms for VSR. It works quite good but doesn't give the gun much range, so I have changed to a PDI W-hold. Works perfect. Both rubbers overhop .20 but they work fine with .25 and up. (I use Bioval .30s)

 

Barrel Nut

After some use my barrel had lots of wobble, but up to a point I could fix it by shimming the barrel nut. I have opted to buy the double barrel nut from FG-Airsoft. Its a French company that makes a couple of parts for gas guns. Their barrel nut is a great design. It comes with two nuts. One locks the chamber on the body of the gun. The other locks the barrel on the hop unit. A drop of blue locktite and nothing wobbles and the nuts wont come loose. I have bought 2 for my C and K G39s and they fit perfectly.

Here is a link to the product: http://fg-airsoft.com/en/pieces-pour-we-g39/49-ecrou-de-canon-pour-g39-gris-sombre.html

 

Magazine inlet valves.

I have around 10 magazines. 4 of them developed bad leaks around the inlet valve. I fixed this by removing the o-ring around the valves and then screwing them in with a bit of black RTV silicone around them (This forms a gasket and eliminates any leaks). I have also had a valve with a broken head which i replaced (My fault for over tightening it)... But that was almost 2 years ago so I don't really remember what types of inlet valves are needed...

 

Broken Nozzle

One of the two teeth of the inner part of the nozzle have broken. What I did was cut two pieces of plastic, shaped them to resemble the broken teeth and then glued them in place. This has happened to the nozzle of my G39K too so I will take some pictures of the procedure and post them.

 

@Arafat As far as rail systems are concerned, I have seen that the handguards from JG (Little wobble)/ TM and G&P guns fit.

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And when did these problems occur? I am buying one of these second-hand and apparently it's in ''perfect condition''. I just want to know at which round count I should be concerned.

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