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Hello all,


I will be ordering myself a G39c in the next day or so, after reading what every one on here has said and many reviews elsewhere I would be daft not to! :P I do have a couple of questions to make sure I buy the right bits and don't bodge the upgrades! :rolleyes: I'm sure they have been covered but I just want to clarify.

Is this the correct N.P.A.S and is the install the same as the PDW shown here? Also I see the N.P.A.S I linked to comes with an alan key (I guess for adjustments), so is this needed/worth it?


Thanks in advance.

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as promised, high quality pics of my fullsized G36 with long inner barrel!   It now shoots 470-500 fps. I had a max of even 517 fps and I shoot it in my attic while its wintertime in Belgium right n

I suggest you simply buy another mag, and salvage the part. Airsoft buddy sells replacement at ridiculous price     Airsoft Buddy, RA-Tech trigger complete set are $90+shipping fyi.

To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sur

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What's with the wobbly barrel on this? Is there a fix? :unsure:




yes, I have posted a very big tutorial some pages ago, basically you will need a 5mm set screw instead of a 3mm one.

No wobble here + I even have the 505mm inner barrel installed.

edit: I reposted my tutorial at the end of this reply.

Ive noticed that my barrel nut never tightens quite enough to eliminate the wobble. Ill have to find another fix.


I refer to my post above....

here is the solution for your problems....no more wobble what so ever!




I have finally solved my problem of the servere wobbling of my 505mm long inner barrel! So this mod will certainly work with the stock inner barrel as well!

The problem is due to repeated assembling and disassembling of the inner barrel. The repeated screwing and unscrewing of setscrew part 125 caused to lose thread at the bottom of part 27. (look at your manuel guys)

So it caused my inner barrel assembly to wobble a lot!



There are 2 solutions for this: get a new part 27, since this will have new threads. But if you really want to be sure, you can even keep your part 27 but just get a longer setscrew to replace the stock setscrew (part 125)


You will have to find a setscrew of the type: M3 - 5mm! (on the picture: the bottom setscrew on is the new one)

The stock setscrew length is 3mm. So 5mm is perfect! Any longer than that and you will have to cut the setscrew to get it fit inside the upper receiver.


Here is explained visually what this mod actually does:

green is the inner barrel itself;

the black block is the part that surrounds the inner barrel;

blue is the set screw that holds the inner barrel assembly in place;

the red shows where the thread has gone, causing the stock setscrew to sit lose!



Its a mystery why WE didnt used a longer setscrew!



Since I didnt know what kind I had to use, I bought a whole kit:




So, there ya go, with just a longer set screw you will have NO inner barrel wobble at all! Even when using a long inner barrel!

Edited by Riko
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ow okay :)


hmm, yeah well I even still have a bit of wobble on my outer as well. Only think to do is to tighten that big nut as tight as possible.

I did it with the biggest (meaning longest) flat screwhead I could find so I could put as much leverage as I can...more than that I dont think you can do. Eliminate outer barrel wobble 100% is impossible I think...

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My G36 RAS came today from Airsoft Global.

It looks great, and is getting much better power than my G39C.

The G39C I bought gets about 65-70 m/s max, where as the RAS gets about 88-90 m/s.


However, there is a problem that I don't recall having seen mentioned on here and I was wondering if anyone can suggest a fix.

I can only get 1 or 2 shots on full auto and then the trigger doesn't fire. If I switch back to semi it will fire. If I then switch back to full auto it will fire one or two shots and stop again.

Using the same mag in the G39C I don't have the problem. This is an issue right out of the box, first time I used it, first time on full auto.


See video here


Any ideas?


I am hoping I can just send the grip and firing mech back for a replacement as I don't want to send the entire thing back. Can probably just swap the G39C for now.

Bd luck on this one.

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Hey Riko,

Not firing on full auto is normal?

I never had a problem with my G39C.

How long should I let the gun work in? Will it be too late to return or put a claim in to the seller if it never resolves itself?

Seems a weird issue to just work itself out.


Guess I will try to fire off more rounds tomorrow and see what happens.

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its a strange issue I must admit.


I had the same thing with my Scar and it went away after time...


if you search youtube "we full auto" you will see many with that "problem"


a few pages back on this topic somebody describes the technical side of this issue...

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What gas are you using?


It sounds vastly underpowered.


indeed, dunno if that could explain why your trigger doesnt engage in full auto, but nonetheless, a WE rifle should not be fired with hfc gas...use green gas or propane if you can

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Does anyone know if The WE G39 and G39K have the correct length gas piston and not the shortened G36C-piston?


Also, I see RA-Tech have developed an NPAS-set for the G39 series, but I haven't seen it at any retailers.

Where would one normally buy RA-Tech parts?



I'd really like one of these G39's, but I'd like to have it fire at less than 350fps with .2's. Preferably less than 300 for CQB.

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Does anyone know if The WE G39 and G39K have the correct length gas piston and not the shortened G36C-piston?


Also, I see RA-Tech have developed an NPAS-set for the G39 series, but I haven't seen it at any retailers.

Where would one normally buy RA-Tech parts?



I'd really like one of these G39's, but I'd like to have it fire at less than 350fps with .2's. Preferably less than 300 for CQB.


1) Please explain exactly what you are after.. Are you talking the cosmetic gas block that makes up the front of the gun or are you talking about the blowback mech? If the later then the basic mech is the same for all 3. There is no "shortened g36c piston".


If you are refering to the mock gas block that is the front of the gun, as i understand it they are the same on the RS judging by photos i have seen. Not 100% on that.


2) You can buy direct from RA-Tech I believe.

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With regaurds to the full auto firing problem, I must admit that this is the first time I recall seeing that mentioned, but if you are using 134a then I would say that is your problem. That doenst explain why it would still work in your other gun. From the look of the video the second shot does not recoil far enough to recock the hammer properly, so maybe it is not engaging the sear correctly, I dont know, I am only speculating. It also seems to do the same 'short stroke' in semi mode. Does it still fire the second shot? Have you tried running it through a chrono to see what difference power wise you are getting between shots? So you dont have access to propane?

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Yeah, the cosmetic gas block and piston.


On some photos it kinda looks real (ie; on the G36 and G36K the block itself is further out on the barrel than on the shorter G36C), but on others it kinda don't.

Some good pics of the WE G39K without its handguard would be nice.


Gas block is the same.

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Regarding the full auto problem. You say its straight out of the box and you've done nothing. Well then do something and that is LUBE LUBE LUBE :D. Take it appart apply lube where neccessary, ie all contact surfaces and orings and whatnot. Maybe theres just too much friction due to lack of lube and it's jamming. And from the video it is clearly barely getting by with HFC gas. Allthough if you say you have a G39C that works in a similar setup I dunno. Try lubricating. First thing I do with all my guns and mags bacause they are usually bone dry after shipping.

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Judging by your video, te problem seems that your gun has trouble in making the bolt move, check the roller in your hammer, some times it gets stuck and it doesn't move freely resulting in a sluggish action. Lube the roller enough, and move it with a screwdriver or something. I hope that this may help you out. Regards...

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