4boost Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 I have aquired one fo these recently and am pretty happy with it, little bit of outer barrel wobble but other than that the gun is solid and very nicely constructed. The mags are a different story however, stupid shape (not we's fault), the three part body is just asking for leaks. One of my mags has developed a leak from the top valve, I think an o-ring has failed but assuming I can't fix it with a repacement does anyone know where I could source a replacement valve from? Will the SCAR valves fit? If you are talking about the release valve, you can get replacement valves from AirsoftBuddy. http://airsoftbuddy.com/index_eproduct_view.php?products_id=892 You should take Banks' advise and check to make sure that the oring isn't obstructed by debris. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 (edited) Bankz which fill valves are the ones you are talking about. Edited May 16, 2011 by frogfish Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Hornbill fill valves from RSOV are also very good. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Hornbill fill valves from RSOV are also very good. And cheaper ! What is the correct size, 7mm ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 16, 2011 Report Share Posted May 16, 2011 Madbull ones direct from them. $10.00 for 3 & $7 shipping which is good for me. Never ever buy Pro Arms steel valves mine broke and leaked after 2 fillls. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 OK just wanted to clarify it was their regular valves not some special WE G39 ones. This them? http://www.madbullairsoft.com/English/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=6&products_id=160 I have to say I just traded for a g39k with some aftermarket parts to make it *like* an "a1" and I am very excited, I've owned some WE guns in the past and was less than satisfied, but the open bolt system seems to hold potential. Hopefully I can get the mags to fit in my mag pouches. Just want to ask though, seraphim linked some images of some mags with the "linking/stacking tabs" (don't know what they are called) removed, is that kosher? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FELDJAGER Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 hack those things off. (2nd guy's mag) http://h-2.abload.de/img/5180878265_3606143739_ryvr.jpg I keep 1 linked pair in my rifle; and de-tabbed singles on my rig. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
frogfish Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 Thank you, now I won't feel bad doing it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 hack those things off. (2nd guy's mag) http://h-2.abload.de/img/5180878265_3606143739_ryvr.jpg I keep 1 linked pair in my rifle; and de-tabbed singles on my rig. Thank you, now I won't feel bad doing it. KSK operators typically do it, there was even a memo requesting H&K to make mags without tabs....Magpul answers the call. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 I hacked them off as well! Quick question... does anyone know where I might find the ring that holds/tightens down the outer body to the hop-up. Both of mine (G39C and RAS) have stripped from try to get rid of the barrel wobble. They are in bad shape Will I have to order from WE direct? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Warpix Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 I found that my mag seems to leak from the fill valve, though very little. One thing I do love about the WE g36 is how you can keep refilling the same mag and running it out of ammo and how it doesn't seem to cool down. Then again, I live in California and its starting to feel like summer, so maybe some of that should be taken with a little salt. I also stumbled on what I hope to be a feature. If you pull the cocking handle back, 90 degrees with the bolt, you can push it in towards the bolt to lock it there. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 hack those things off. (2nd guy's mag) http://h-2.abload.de/img/5180878265_3606143739_ryvr.jpg I keep 1 linked pair in my rifle; and de-tabbed singles on my rig. I'm the exact opposite, I keep a single in and linked doubles in my pouches KSK operators typically do it, there was even a memo requesting H&K to make mags without tabs....Magpul answers the call. I dunno about that. Yes, they obviously cut off the tabs, but I would not say it is typical. That posted picture is one of the few I've seen Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redneck123 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 (edited) Well, here is an issue to solve the barrel wobble. I hope that nobody will get angry about my copy pasta ;-) But i think its ok, lastly we are all chaps :-) http://forum.weairsoft.de/index.php?page=Thread&threadID=1624 ps. i know its german, but you could just translate it via babelfish or something else Edited May 17, 2011 by Redneck123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dragqueeninspace Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 The leak is from the top valve linked in 4boosts post, I have confirmed the largest oring has snapped. many thanks for the link. Well I think your very wrong about the mags there. The three chamber design is amazing and ingenious which ends in zero cool down effect even in cold weather. I'd disagree, having now dismantled one calling the magazine a three chamber design is being very generous, there are two internal lips but I doubt this has much effect on cooldown. I would attribute the favourable characteristics of the magazines gas chamber to the large volume of the magazine more than the divisions. My issue with them is more to do with the extra seals required for the three part design leading to more places that can leak, if WE's plan was to maximise gas efficiency via mutiple chambers then simple baffles inside would have made more sense. This leads me to belive that the design was chosen to keep the castings simple and cheap. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 Correct valves. I like the tabs, they don't really hinder me what does get stuck though is the mag base plates! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 Ok, well I am finding that I still have a small problem with my G39. I have swapped out the hop rubber and nub (I also used the black one), and my shot to shot consistency is awesome, as well as the range. I can happily use .2g bbs without an issue of under or overhop due to the hop setting. This is all great. I think that my problem lies with the magazines. What is happening, occasionally I will pop a fresh magazine in the gun and chamber the first round as per usual. The problem is when I fire it. Shot after shot consistantly dropping sharply (Very sharply) after about 10 yards. There is an easy fix to stop this, I just swap for another mag and then shot after shot flies miles again. I can put the other mag back in and shot after shot will work fine. I can even take it out, then bang it back in and it will work. So, I recon that my issue has something to do with the mag not feeding properly, and the resulting snag is what is causing the problem. Thing is that I am sure it is not always the same mag that does it, but I shall be numbering them up for next time to see, and I have looked at them and they all seem to look pretty snag free, unless I am looking in the wrong place. Maybe it is the mag catch not holding the mag in the right place, but that all seems pretty fine. It doesnt do it often, but it is very annoying when it does as I am sure that you can guess the result that normally happens. I wondered if anyone else may have had the same issue, or has any ideas what I can try? I also really must stress, that this is only a very small issue, and despite this I trust this gun and use this gun more than most of my others now. It is a lovely gun to use and I love it more than a man should really love a gun, so anyone reading thinking about getting one, dont be put off by my problem at all as it is very minor and probably will turn out to be something strikingly obvious. Many thanks though in advance of any help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Erab Posted May 17, 2011 Report Share Posted May 17, 2011 I get the same problem as spencerman, happens every 10-12 mag changes I guess, not too often. It happens with all 6 of my mags randomly, all I have to do is take it out then put it back in and it works fine, or change mags! All I can think of is that the magazine sometimes does not engage properly in the magwell, all tho it does not wobble or feel any different. It happens just as often if I rush the mag change under fire or if I'm just plinking at home. It's odd and I just put it down to being one of the guns little foibles, certainly not a big enough problem to put me off the gun. It has got me killed on a couple of occasions tho so if any one knows a fix it would be greatly appreciated! I have the stock hop rubber and H nub in at the moment but it happened with the stock nub and a bit of biro tube too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) Hmmm never had this with mine I don't think. Until recently but that's because my valve locker broke (i think) and my firing pin was very warn. Replacements on the way though! Out of Interest has anyone done a DMR G36? I'm curently building one of what I think should work - Internal - H-Nub 440mm 6.01mm TB Inner Barrel Nineball Hop Rubber External - K Length Handguard K Barrel extension Short Suppressor X3.5 Scoped Carry Handle GripPod .30g bbs Hopefully this will give very strong range, power and accuracy. Anyone done anything similar? Also how hard do you guys think it will be to make a short SL9 style mag from a standard mag? Would be nice to have one Edited May 18, 2011 by bankz5152 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 my gun spews more gas and the bbs will only go a short distance if my magazines are over filled with gas. i kinda learned how to fill them just enough and the bb spitting and gas purging disappeared. what i usually do is after finishing 30 rounds i refill it with 10secs worth of gas. that way im sure its not over or underfilled. spitting bbs also happens when the loading nozzle is sticking inside the bolt. either it has very little lube left or the two ears thats keeping the nozzle in place is full of dirt. take out the bolt and pull on the nozzle does it snap back quick? i havent exerienced what spencer said, wherein you only have to seat the mag back again for it to work properly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) Out of Interest has anyone done a DMR G36? I'm curently building one of what I think should work - Internal - H-Nub 440mm 6.01mm TB Inner Barrel Nineball Hop Rubber External - K Length Handguard K Barrel extension Short Suppressor X3.5 Scoped Carry Handle GripPod .30g bbs Hopefully this will give very strong range, power and accuracy. Anyone done anything similar? Also how hard do you guys think it will be to make a short SL9 style mag from a standard mag? Would be nice to have one If that's what counts as a DMR then yes, I have a similar set up. Quite frankly, the WE already has superior range and accuracy to nearly all the other AEGs you'll encounter, and a barrel that long and that tight will give a fairly significant FPS, one that is not really necessary in my opinion. If you're going to put in all that effort at least make it look like a DMR, all you have there is a normal G36K with a grip pod. Also, the standard carry handle is one of the worst ideas for a DMR possible, I love G36s to death but those scopes are bad. Make a SL8, get the top rail, and put a proper scope on it. Short mags would be quite difficult, as you'd have to design your own gas chambers to go in it. Sorry to sound like I'm trashing your idea, but it needs some more work before you go spending a bunch of money Edited May 18, 2011 by Seraphim989 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 I had most the parts already though and the inner barrel was only $40.00. And the carry handle was dirt cheap so the 'build' has cost me peanuts. Whats wrong with the Carry Handles? Seems decent enough if not just a little small. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Where'd you get the carry handle? I'm still trying to get enough to equip all my G36s :/ Anyways, it is a very small diameter scope, so the image isn't going to be very clear, and it has truly terrible eye relief. A good optic is crucial to making a DMR. Also, if you want a good gas DMR, you're probably going to have to tap the mags. Even with as good as the WE is about cool down and temperature variations, it's still not enough for true DMR status Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 (edited) Well the eye relief is definatley better than a SUSAT! lol Tap the mags? What does this mean? Carry handle came off here actually. Might stick an ACOG on then... Edited May 18, 2011 by bankz5152 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 He means put a thread in the bottom of the mags and fit a valve, and feed the gun with external CO2/HPA. For better consistency. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted May 18, 2011 Report Share Posted May 18, 2011 Exactly, an external rig is necessary to really even out the gas flow to ensure consistently accurate shots. An ACOG would be much better, but really you should look to a full scope. Even ACOGs are only 32 or 35mm. I use 40mm minimum for my DMRs, and I prefer 50mm Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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