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VSS Vintorez


renegadecow

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Thanks a bunch! But still not done, have to do the iron sights and butt pad. Hammer finish was really what I was looking for, but was out of stock at the time. To do the sandblasted finish:

-lay 2-3 coats primer or your basic color which is silver in this case

-let dry and apply same color but really far away and in thin brisk strokes so the vapor starts to get tacky even before it hits the surface, about 2ft, this will make a rough surface

-let dry for 15 min then apply the same technique as the previous but with flat black. How dark you want it depends on how much black you put on. Do this alternate layer about 2x or until the desired texture and shade is achieved.

 

I'll be getting back on the SKS shortly, but don't expect to be finishing it too soon what with people wanting me to make VSS's for them too.

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Finally done! Butt pad and iron sights installed and receiver finish improved on by rubbing on silicone oil. To those asking for plans, I don't know if I could do one in detail since I don't know CAD, but I'll see if I could scan the template I drew up and just insert the dimensions. Thanks to everyone for looking and the helpful suggestions!

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and a comparison shot, real vs replica

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last i checked, he gets the PVC in both pipes and sheets. but i could have missed something.

 

oh yeah, and good *fruitcage* work there RC!!!

 

 

I thought i read somewhere he flattened PVC pipe, But i cannot remember where i read that. So i may have been mistaken.

 

Anyway great work on it, Would love to see specs of this to attempt making one myself :)

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Thanks! Yeah, I still make them out of pipe. And to those who asked, I got pics of the process albeit no flame.

 

Get your pipe and cut a section off. The size of the sheet will be determined by the length of the section and the circumference of the pipe. Thickness goes along with the size of pipe usually, the larger the thicker.

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Cut along the side of the pipe (one on left is cut, but hard to see). Or in cases of much larger pipe (left) it would be easier to cut it in half completely on both sides.

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You need flat boards to squish the softened tubes, sand them smooth because any defects will reflect on the sheet you're pressing. Before heating the pvc, clean off all burrs and dirt because these will show as pits if they're included in the press.

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For tubes, I just hold it with a pipe. Splayed out tubes or odd shaped cuts, I hold with tongs. Keep the piece about 6" above the flame to keep from burning. It's important to keep the part moving because pvc is a very bad conductor of heat. If you just heat one part, the heat won't travel out across the whole piece and you'll just end up burning it. That said burning pvc will emit harmful gasses like HCl so keep a window open or use a mask rated for "organic compounds of low toxicity". It's not as bad as it sounds, just don't be impatient and stick the pvc into the flame until it turns black.

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After you've made sure that the part is evenly heated (the parts pictured above take approx 2 mins of constantly juggling around over the flame to heat evenly) and soft enough to manipulate, pry the tube open over the one side of your press and sandwich it with the other. Halved pieces of pipe are easier to squish. I stand on the press until the heated piece cools enough to hold shape. The reason why I stand on it is that it keeps me from having to lug weights on and off the press and I could just stand on it while I heat the next piece in preparation. By the time the current piece being heated is soft enough, the part being pressed would have cooled already.

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edit:

btw, Meathead was able to cook up a process to use an electric stove instead of a gas one. This makes heating parts evenly much easier as you could control the temp setting, but will limit you in the side of parts to be heated.

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Gobsmackingly superb job RC cool.gif

 

Is PVC sheet hard to find in your part of the world then?

 

 

.50 Cal

PVC pipe 'cement' is very good, and cheap.

Just look in the plumbing section of any DIY/Hardware shop.

It works by melting the surface of the plastic slightly so the parts actually fuse together, like welding metal.

Once it's set fully, the parts effectively become one continuous piece, you'd never get them apart again.

It works well on the plastics used for Airsoft parts too.

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.50 Cal

PVC pipe 'cement' is very good, and cheap.

Just look in the plumbing section of any DIY/Hardware shop.

It works by melting the surface of the plastic slightly so the parts actually fuse together, like welding metal.

Once it's set fully, the parts effectively become one continuous piece, you'd never get them apart again.

It works well on the plastics used for Airsoft parts too.

 

Cheers Doc, now all I've got to do is move house so I have a workshop!!!!! MWA HA HA HA!! :D

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