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VSS Vintorez


renegadecow

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Thanks! Solid blocks might look nice, but can be very difficult to work with if you don't have the tools. I myself have only worked with planks and constructing stocks in halves to make it easier to gut the insides. The hard part is trying to conceal the seam afterward by wood selection and finishing. At least with laminate, it's just cut and paste. I know you won't consider laminate for your MP41 for authenticity, but using the planks method should make your work easier.

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I am in fact making the stock out of two halves :) Its easier to rout out. Wont have to take much out though which is a plus. The seam is whats been bothering. Ive never tried planks myself so I cant judge to bad. Ive seen some nice pieces made this way. I'm expect nothing less great from you.

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Oh god schults another one of these guys haha.

 

Renegade, where Im not a fan of laminate Im sure you will work wonders out of it. Can't wait to see the finished product.

you know the real steel uses laminate right? if i was to criticise anything it would be that the laminate layers are too thick. not that it really matters as ply that thin is hard to come by.

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I'll have to hold off from working on this until Thursday, have to make stuff for a commercial and I really hate how those guys ask for things in such short notice. If you want to see some great laminate work now, go check out Docv400's RPK build:

http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=190181&st=0

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Hey RC, since you have a line formed already if you start to produce a small lot of these, how about asking for down payments and using said money to buy resin casting kits? I can bet that making molds and casting them out of resin would be a lot faster and more consistent than making each by hand.

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I am in fact making the stock out of two halves :) Its easier to rout out....The seam is whats been bothering. Ive never tried planks myself so I cant judge to bad. Ive seen some nice pieces made this way. I'm expect nothing less great from you.

It might be possible to start with a single thickness piece, split it down the middle (not cut, split), do the routing, then glue it together and do all the shaping.

 

...if i was to criticise anything it would be that the laminate layers are too thick. not that it really matters as ply that thin is hard to come by.

It's not hard to get sheets of ply down to around 0.8mm thick, which is great for small jobs like my RPK's upper foregrip (see RC's link).

For Rear or Full stocks however, the only advantage in going for the thinner plys (1/4" ~ 6mm or so) is to make it easier to do the internal cut-outs, and for fitting threaded inserts, and other small metal parts.

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Hey RC, since you have a line formed already if you start to produce a small lot of these, how about asking for down payments and using said money to buy resin casting kits? I can bet that making molds and casting them out of resin would be a lot faster and more consistent than making each by hand.

For larger projects, though seldom, I do ask for down payments. But I'm not comfortable in holding money from a bunch of different people lined up for something I'm not exactly working on at the moment. I'm a bit skeptical with resin casting since my past dealings with a friend botched down (for the Meprolight replica) so I'm looking into a material I'm more familiar with: fiberglass.

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Back on the VSS.

 

Shaped the stock, and finishing it later.

IMG_0992.jpg

 

Just finished stippling the fore end, and did the mock side rail earlier. I intentionally made the rail a little off spec in case somebody tries and put on their expensive PSO-1 on it and find it falling to the ground.

IMG_0994.jpg

 

All I really need to do now are:

-make rear sling swivel

-make 10rd mag (decided on just putting a 30rd TM shotshell inside)

-make front post

-make leaf spring for rear sight

-make scope mount and bodge on a 1x30 tasco to look like a PSO-1

-put texture on suppressor (probably just stick on grip tape, real ones knurled though)

-paint

-make new wiring

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I used a jigsaw to cut out the pattern in halves on 1" marine plywood and routed the parts for the gearbox and curvature of the outer edges. Still had to do a lot of sanding though as the routed surface was pretty rough, unlike on solid wood. I don't think I'll ever use or even come close to an operating band saw; have this fear of the blade snapping and cutting me in half.

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