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VSS Vintorez


renegadecow

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IIRC from what the people at the paint store told me you'll want to leave the wood unstained for a while (ideally out for a month or so) because it will absorbs more stain (thus giving you a better colour) if it's left to "dry" (slowly, or warping will occur). Also I think they were saying something about wiping it down with mineral oil or mineral spirits or something to open up the grain.

 

We were talking about staining Pressure Treated wood though so with plywood it might be different with the staining and such.

 

EDIT: If you could even make me just the stock I would gladly pay like $30 or 40 USD plus shipping

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shellac

I have to admit, I've never used the stuff and know little of it and, and... it's made of bug juice? WTF?!?

I've already stained it actually so that's one more thing you won't like and will be applying the varnish in the morning. Stained in mahogany to give it the reds and a touch of oak to make it a little orange. Why I prefer oil stains over pre-colored finishes is because they penetrate deeper into the wood and won't show the natural (in this case very pale) color of the material when scratched. Should look like the finish below on L1A1 furniture I made some few months ago.

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If you could even make me just the stock I would gladly pay like $30 or 40 USD plus shipping

 

Who? Me???

 

Yeah , but it's "western stock style". Only color(can say semitransparent) lacquer adds "lollipop" look of russian wood.

 

It's not a difficult thing... can be diluted in alcohol, and has many different colors...I think no shellac nedded but any kind of color lacquer neded...:rolleyes:

 

Edit: I did the same by my M14, but I used alcohol diluted stain, and after it I oliled it too. Unauthecntic BB-dents can be easily removed, using acetone diluted stain(after sanding them away).

Thees woodparts can be treated with wax too, but I think it limits the repairation possibilities.

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Who? Me???

 

No I meant to renegade.... I thought it was kind of implicit. I'm trying to build my own VSS based on an RS Type 56 and if he can supply most of the parts and stuff then I'm in business. I actually offered to pay him if this turns out and he decides to make more (even if he only makes a few key components for me).

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Was curious about shellac and done researched it some more. I mentioned that I use varnish to do the top coat on most of my woodwork only to realize that the stuff I use could actually be shellac only its name is "plastic varnish". I never knew what it was really, only that its not like normal varnishes and it reeked of alcohol. It dries real quick and does give that candy tone if enough coats are applied.

Made the magazine today too, not yet done though as it still needs the base plate and side ribs.

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Renegade... What does the inner assy of the mag look like? Could you post some reference pics? I'm thinking that if a standard AEG mags internals are simple enough you might be able to "chop out" the centre and splice together the two ends (if they line up).

 

Also what's the capacity of your homemade "short mags"?

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Thanks :) . Real ones just a 10 rounder and fits the mechanism of an AK hicap, just the mechanism. Looked at an MP5 mechanism and it would only work if I folded it in half and seemed like too much work. Hicaps generally have too much space for the mechanism given what little left is for bb's so I tried looking for a midcap to butcher but couldn't find any so I just used a TM (clone) shotshell, holds 30 effective 27 because of the hop tube. The inside of the mag just holds the shell, pull out from the bottom. Had to modify the shell a bit though, sides were too thick by 1mm.

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...I don't think I'll ever use or even come close to an operating band saw; have this fear of the blade snapping and cutting me in half...

A bandsaw's not really any good for this sort of job, as you'd have to cut and re-weld the blade for each of the cut-outs.

A 'Scroll' Saw would be much more useful, and they're not that expensive.

Scroll saws...

 

My late Father made his own one, as they're fairly simple machines, mind you, one of his hobbies was clock-making, so there wasn't much he couldn't make himself!

 

 

 

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now make me an AS VAL...

 

god that looks good.

 

i had an idea on the mag though, it would be cool to be able to quick change the internal shotgun shell. say, a spring latch system like some cabinets where its secured by a push and then all you need to do is push it again to release it.

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As far as I can tell he already has posted the internals, its that shaved black shot gun shell. Which I have to say is a quite ingenuous way of solving the problem rather than making his own feed tubes and the rest which would have to be very carefully done to avoid jamming (not that Renegadecow couldn't do it. He clearly could) this is just a much easier way around the problem.

 

I love watching these projects take shape. Renegadecow you do amazing work keep it up.

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Thanks folks! I've done up the paint: flat black everything, semi gloss mag, and the closest to whatever the color of the real handguard I could find in a can. It looks really off now, mostly because of the flat black like my_plague_666 mentioned so I'll try rubbing silicone oil over it first as I know it does wonders to this type of paint (acrylic epoxy) from previous works, but not sure if it'll look the part for the VSS. Real ones just blued I think, and thinly too which is probably why it shines a lot. I just wish Tanaka finishes came in cans because I was never any good in the paint department. Also, as mentioned, the internal of the mag is pictured earlier. It's a modified Marui (clone) 30rd shotgun shell. An alternative to the paintjob is to have a friend of mine (who did the Gundam gun) do his weathering magic on this, but will have to talk to the customer first as that would entail added cost.

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Here's a couple shots of real ones, just to show what I mean about the color difference. Then again, it could just be from the fact that pics of any real ones are pretty well worn hence the shine.

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