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ollie_ty

UK Spec KWA KMP9 Pictures

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Update:

 

Magazine A: Works 100%

Magazine B: Works 99%, failure to lock back during full auto burst, locked back when firing recommenced.

Magazine C: Was leaking and not feeding properly. Striped down, sprayed in silicon oil, lubed part no.143, sanded 137 and lubed with silicon oil, as well as the channel. Wiped it mostly dry. Works 99%, still leaks.

Magazine D: Didn't feed. Did same as above bar sanding the follower, works 99%, one missfire.

Magazine E: Didn't feed. Just took apart and did nothing to it as a control. Works 100%

 

The only remaining issues I have with the magazines are that one that leaks, one spits liquefied gas on to my hands, and some don't seem to want to be filled. How many seconds do you guys fill the mags for? I try to go for 6 seconds. Good thing about Marui mags is that they let you know when they are full. These mags remind me of my old WE 1911 mags, what a nightmare that was.

 

Other remaining issues: Minor receiver wobble despite tightening down appropriate screws. It may have come loose already, will glue next time. Bolt catch continues to eat my bolt carrier despite sanding, concerned about over-doing it.

 

A few notes: If you have feeding issues, do what they guys above recommended BUT don't be afraid to keep the follower area a little damp with silicon, so long as the channel is cleaned regularly. The gun still functions with the nozzle springs removed.

 

 

Also, this thing is a gas guzzler! I'm nearly out of gas which I bought 3 days ago, after 2 days of use. Though I have put between 700-900 rounds through it so far.

Edited by AG1212

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6 seconds isn't enough, the gas reservoir is massive, I fill for at least 20 seconds from empty then top up after every load of bbs.

Keeps it all topped up.

 

The one that still leaks gives you two options.

 

1, Try to fix it the conventional way by either replacing the rubber seal at the bottom of the mag or by shimming it up by putting teflon tape under it or both.

2, Epoxy the base in and forget about it. Sometimes that was the only way to go with the MK1 mags. Obviously only do that if you don't mind losing the ability to take the mag spring and follower out.

Because of the negatives involved in option 2 I wouldn't recommend it unless you just can't stop the leaks.

 

I have done it on a customer gun before but I cut the tang off the front that holds the mag spring in and replaced it with a plug and a machine screw.

Doesn't look pretty but it works 100%

 

Lubing the BB run will eventually ruin the hop rubber and will give you inconsistent hopping, if you are happy to take that negative and keep it clean then that's fine.

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Well I'm replacing my rubber eventually anyway, but you're right.

 

Did some testing again today.

 

First semi and burst fire towards the end: all mags fired flawlessly (Well not flawlessly, there was one failure to lock-back, but that's not that big a deal) apart from mag C, which also stopped leaking after leaving it over-night filled with gas. I got double and triple feeding during full auto, IE it would stop spitting out bbs then suddenly 2-3 would come out instantaneously, with some bbs rolling out the front. This only happened with this one mag, it was also low on gas at the time.

 

I refilled the mags with gas and bbs and commenced test 2: full auto mag dump. Here is the confusing part: all mags fed from start to finish and locked the bolt at the end. That's 40 rounds aprox. of fully automatic fire with little to no cool-down whatsoever (it's about 10 degrees outside, and raining heavily) despite having no nozzle return spring. Those 200 bbs were gone in a flash :D

 

The ROF is insane, the thought of spraying even a quarter of a mag into a cheater...Not that I would ever do such a thing :huh:

 

So this little monster jams from time to time, but when it works oh does it work.

 

 

Thanks for all the help guys :) If I have any further issues I'll let you guys know.

Edited by AG1212

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I'm still annoyed that I have no daylight available to set my hop properly on mine! :P I'd like to be able to see how accurate it is at range as well.

 

In other news, stunt had a spare nozzle which we tried the aluminium piston head in and it actually fitted. I've not got round to trying it on my standard bolt just yet but it could be the right size for the piston head.

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Cheers dude, I managed to check it in a remaining bit of light a while ago. The hop is set fine but it does seem to be lacking fps and range. I think I'm going to have to track down a normal ball bearing, I can't be sure if the A+ stabilizer is a help or a hindrance at the moment!

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Bearings arrived today, perfect fit! If anyone is going to The Mall on the 9th and they need a replacement bearing I'm happy to bring a few spare for people, I have no need for 10! :)

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I could, you know, put it in a bag or something? You don't have to try and store it in your teeth. :P

 

EDIT: Got a G&P T1 sight for my MP9... the thread doesn't even tighten. That's getting returned to the shop!

Edited by Wild_XIII

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Wild my T-1 did the same thing. And my friends T-1 also did it. The way I solved it was to araldite a nut to the outside, and got a small, long matching screw to go through. Hey, its not like the original design, but its way more secure.

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Seems like a bit of pants quality control to me! It's probably easier and cheaper than sending it back to the shop tbh. Looks like I'm taking a trip to B&Q or somewhere later!

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I'm not fussed about an extra bolt with a bit of araldite around it, I'm lazy to go searching shops for one. ;)

 

I'll probably take a drive down later and see what's at B&Q.

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Ugh FML.

 

After hours of trying to get the bloody bolt pins out, turns out my MP9 doesn't want to fire. The trigger doesn't engage the hammer. I have to push the dis-connector forward for it to fire. I fired about a mag through it, semi and bursts. How do I fix this PITA POS MP9? I'm just going to sell the two of them methinks and go for a nice spring action, nothing can go with spring powered rifles, right? RIGHT?

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Well I really appreciate the offer, but I'd rather not go through the hassle of postage etc. Unless you feel like keeping it for a certain sum of money? (or is this against forum rules?)

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No, that's not against the rules, you have over 100 posts so you could start a sale thread but I will investigate them for nothing and fix them for cost (if they need parts) if you decide to post them.

 

Everything is fixable but there are a lot of parts inside one of these little beasties and if something is broken it takes a trained eye to spot it.

 

What you mentioned about having to manually push the disconnector forward is setting off alarm bells though.

A broken disconnector is fairly common and can be caused by an incorrect drill while re-assembling.

 

I'd suspect that first...

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A broken disconnector is fairly common...

 

Indeed, I've gone through two now, one only lasted a day! I'm still trying to find a place that will reply to my emails about getting one custom made from steel.

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