jackypoo Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Well, I got mine today after a massive walk to the Parcelforce depot. It's not as impressive as I'd hoped, The plastic was a bit of a let down, but I'm not too fussed about that, as long as it holds up. Mine came with a bit of a loose fire selector, just on semi though; it does seem a bit 'mushy' which I'm not so pleased with. The biggest let down is the fact that it does not fire D: insert a battery and a pull of the trigger results in nothing. The motor moves ever so slightly, but doesn't cycle the gearbox. Really not happy my investment doesn't even fire out of the box Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Very unusual, I'd first play around with the motor height adjustment, then try taking the motor out of the pistol grip (but still connected to the wires) and seeing whether it spins ok by itself. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I took the motor out, and it works fine. Adjustment didn't help either, I thought that TM had maybe changed the convention for Tamiya connectors but a Multimeter test threw that out of the window :3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 I know it may sound silly... but remember about the "bolt lock", maybe the gun thinks its empty and you need to press it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kenworth W900 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Jacky mate, my advice to you is to stop *fruitcage* around with it. Its a TM gun, it should work out of the box. If it doesn't, the best option is always to talk to the dealer you got it from - don't attempt a fix yourself. Even if you know what you are doing you'll void your warranty and potentially screw something up big time (a likely scenario considering the TM SCAR is a brand new gun which none of us are 100% familiar with). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 Yeah, I'm not venturing any further than the motor. I've contacted Redwolf about it, so hoping they'll point me in the right direction :3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted May 7, 2011 Report Share Posted May 7, 2011 If all the electrics and the motor are working then I'd say you're pretty much left with a gearbox issue, locked up perhaps. Though it does remind me of a problem that's fairly common with the TM SOPMOD design, if you put on a Magpul grip without using the upgrade metal base plate then when you pull the trigger the motor only moves a tiny bit but isn't able to cycle the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 If it was me id hang the motor loose and test it, if it works id thenput the motor in the grip and use my thumb as the base plate. push it in untill it cycle the gun. Then you know if its a: locked in the gearbox, or B: just a motor hieght issue. It could of cause be poor battery or poor connection or poor motor. Kinnerley - I was given a sopmod with magpul grip, i found it too pushed it up too high but i really like the idea of plastic base plates it removes any chance of a short circuit so i modded the base plate so the motor sits lower. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 I was given a sopmod with magpul grip, i found it too pushed it up too high but i really like the idea of plastic base plates it removes any chance of a short circuit so i modded the base plate so the motor sits lower. I don't think short circuits should be a problem to be honest, I can see what you're saying but I've now got the metal plates on all 3 of my EBBRs and they all function fine, no electrical issues. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 I stripped it down to the gearbox and had a look around, there was a slight rattling from the inside that I was concerned with. I didn't venture any further and attached to lower receiver to test it. Oh yay, it works! Adding the upper receiver didn't hinder it at all, and the outer barrel assembly continued this trend. So now fully working after a disassembly, I can only assume that something was misaligned during transit. Would be interesting to know the forces exerted on the replica during that time, getting dropped in a hard case could possibly replicate this instance and ruin the start of a good day out ^^ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 (edited) I don't think short circuits should be a problem to be honest, I can see what you're saying but I've now got the metal plates on all 3 of my EBBRs and they all function fine, no electrical issues. Not with the metal magpull as ive havent heard any reports but its a very regular thing that i need to mod the base plate of the standard tm grip when installing any motor other than the eg1000. People assume different motors are the same but they arnt some have contacts very close together or even higher than the eg1000. Resulting in the motor being A: pushed in to far or B: the metal contacts touch the tm matel base plate and you get intermietant fuse poping. Just something ive come accross with the mirade of parts im asked to fit, or they already have fit. The plastic magpull base plate simply needed "thinning" so it fits easier in between the two wires and the motor. Basically you think the motors in but its sitting way to low. making sure the motor plate goes inbetween the wires sits the motor at the right height and allows normal adjustment. Basically the same mod i do to all tm base plates now. Jackypoo - Some times the motor gets in a stuck positon up, when you reseated it tha might have "reset" the motor height, also the recoil weights can stick with cold, removing the upper might have been enough to free it. Pshhh nothing concret just thinking out loud. Edited May 8, 2011 by Richard Y Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 I guess it can get quite cold at 40,000 feet, lol. Either way, I'm pleased with it; I was much happier today after it worked xD With regards to the bolt catch, how stiff is it supposed to be? Mine required a fair amount of force to flick back, I was just worried I'd snap something Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted May 8, 2011 Report Share Posted May 8, 2011 knock it! knock it hard! then shout GO GO GO ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BerserkDS Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 Does a 9.6 mini fit in the scar? What's the max capacity? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 no i think your limited too a 8.4v mini, i managed to squeeze a 7.4v 1100mah lipo in one. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BerserkDS Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 That's a huge bummer, I don't use lipo... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 WHAAAATT.. /covers his ears... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BerserkDS Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 I know -__- I'm old school, I like to keep it simple. 9.6 mini gives me my ideal rof and are cheap and easy to charge. Call me lazy but I'm still not convinced on this lipo shenanigin Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 A 7.4v LiPo gives basically the same RoF as a 9.6v NiMh, and obviously it depends on the retailers you have near by but personally I can get a quality new LiPo pack for less than £10, whereas a mini NiMh from an airsoft shop would be at least £15-20. As for charging, with the bit of kit I have, I just plug in the balance connector and it stops when the cells are full and balanced; could not actually be any simpler. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted June 16, 2011 Report Share Posted June 16, 2011 yup lipos are quicker and easyer to charge. Batterys are like ram its actually cheaper to buy the new stuff than it is the old technology. Try and get an old nicad pack it will set you pack loads and be rubbish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 I crammed a mates 2100mAh 7.4 into mine, it stop me adjusting the stock though :c Just an update on the upgrades from mine; with the standard barrel, Richardy's M100 gave me 351 fps almost every time, with the odd 363 reading here and there. After a Madbull 363mm was installed, the results jumped to ~375 give or take around 3 fps. I just went back to the original spring out of desperation to use it legally and it tested from 336 to 346! I'll check it this Sunday at another site, just in case my Chrono is duff I know it's quite a bump, but thought I'd share these interesting results. I've got over the initial irks and think I've figured out the lockup isuue! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted July 14, 2011 Report Share Posted July 14, 2011 The scars well know to produce a higher fps out of the box than the sopmod, its probably a shorter box by a fraction yet tm is comfortable using the same spring as the sopmod. The scars out of the box are chronoing over 300... If you need some middle ground i do a m90 spring as well as the m100. And rmemeber adding a spring guide (version 3) will als0 increase fps, you can go for a lesser spring and use the spring guide to bump it up a little. what size lipo did i say? 1100 ? that was about all i could squeeze in there. 1200 wouldnt fit, not sure how you got the 2100 in there, any pics? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jackypoo Posted July 15, 2011 Report Share Posted July 15, 2011 It's a 2100mAh. I can't get any pics until I'm back at Uni, but I has to remove the little tab thing at the top of the stock. It was a VERY tight squeeze, and sat well below the rails TM had put in to keep batteries in place. I tried an Overlander 2200mAh and that was a tiny bit too long; the balance lead is always an issue too :3 I forgot about the spring guide, I can imagine it helps compression a fair whack. I'll test the fps after my next day out, I didn't take much time on lubing the piston's o-ring; I'll blame the range of inconsistency on that and the fact the stock spring saw less than 1k rounds! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Interficium Posted July 26, 2011 Report Share Posted July 26, 2011 These are what I use in my SCAR-L: http://eliteairsoftbatteries.com/products/157-elite-airsoft-1800mah-2s-15c-lipo-battery-pack.aspx 1800mah 15c 7.4v, fits excellent in the stock. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted August 4, 2011 Report Share Posted August 4, 2011 (edited) Meh! That made me sad with all the useless stuff posted on this thread. Anyhow, I just thought I would chime in with which battery fits in the stock. One of my friend's dad has one of these things. I can't remember for sure which battery he has in his gun. I do know that its a Hyperion 7.4v lipo. I'm think its a hyperion 7.4v 1600mah 25C lipo. For reference, I took a photo of a standard 8.4v 1600mah NIMH mini battery compared to the Hyperion 7.4v 1600mah 45C lipo. The dimensions for the Hyperion 7.4v 1600mah 25C is 88.6mm x 33.5mm x 14.2mm. The 45C (pictured) has the dimension of 89mm x 33mm x 16mm ----------- Dimensions for the hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo is 105mm x 34.1mm x 14.9mm Typically 2/3 A cells are 16mm in diameter. Which means that side to side it comes to about 32mm...plus some shrink wrap (maybe about 34mm?). I'm thinking that the 7.4v 2100mah is approximately the same size as your average 8.4v 1600mah NIMH mini battery. I'll have to take a pic of mine when I get home and post up. Edited August 4, 2011 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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