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The Computer Question Thread

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The basic reason you are having issues is that you are just taking out the card without useing the eject feature, and thus you are corrupting the filesystem on the SD card .

FAT32 suffers from this a lot more then NTFS

To avoid this use the eject / stop device feature and thus any data that is waiting to write to the device is written to it.

Now is your question more on how to get the card to show up again ?

In this case it might need you via device manager to remove the card reader and the sd card entrys so that when windows reboots it picks the card reader up and when you put the card in it redetects it.

safelyremove.jpg

 

devicemanager1.jpg

 

 

devicemanager2.jpg

 

This is just a example if i wanted to remove the entry for my usb flashpen

 

devicemanager3.jpg

 

 

devicemanager4.jpg

Edited by Apex
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If that doesn't work stick it in a Linux based machine and use the disc utility to reformat it to NTFS.

 

*Edit* you will lose all your data if you do this...

Edited by amateurstuntman

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If that doesn't work stick it in a Linux based machine and use the disc utility to reformat it to NTFS.

 

*Edit* you will lose all your data if you do this...

 

The device he has might not support NTFS, a lot only support FAT - FAT16 - FAT32 and FAT32x (if you are lucky)

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64344103.png

 

Is it normal having so little option in my disk drives? (yeah i fail with computers)

 

I think my laptop should support ntfs.

It was after i clicked on the fix device thing that the card showed it as a fat32, i never heard of it before tbh. :clown:

I guess it came ntfs as standard?

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Yes it is normal - the only things that will show up under disk drives are devices that are ment to be there in normal operation ie usb sticks ssds hdds - now if you have a card reader pluged in it should be showing under here and looking at it that is not the case ?

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I have used an external reader, uninstalled the readers of it, still no response from the card.

But i am going to buy a new tomorrow and will take care of it.

I want to thank everybody that helped me.

Edited by koxdipy

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Here's one to baffle the more computer literate amongst you.

 

I'm trying to remove the dvd drive from my pc to make way for water cooling but I've run into a problem. Every time I disconnect the drive windows won't load. I get to the loading screen then I get a flash of blue screen and it resets. If I connect the drive back up windows loads fine.

 

Here's a little vid to show what I mean.

 

Any ideas on how to sort this would be very much appreciated, I've spent two days trying to sort this and all I can think that's left to try is clearing the cmos and setting the bios up from scratch without the dvd drive being on there.

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Taking a device out like that sould have no baring on the machine however i can think that the boot order is messed up slighty inside windows.

can you post the entrys in your boot.ini file ?

Edited by Apex

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Which SATA ports are the DVD and HDD drives plugged into?

 

Will it boot if you switch them round?

It will.

It turns out the top set of sata 6 ports don't show up in bios. Cheers for the help guys, I can't believe I missed that one.

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Can't decide on a GPU for my new 3570K system.  What single card seems likely to run new releases at 1920x1080, near max settings, for the next few years?  

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Can't decide on a GPU for my new 3570K system.  What single card seems likely to run new releases at 1920x1080, near max settings, for the next few years?  

 

That may or may not be a problem, with the next generation of consoles coming out, gaming graphics in general will most likely increase, needing more powerful cards to run at max settings. But who knows.

 

I don't know about Nvidia, but for AMD the 7870 should do the job nicely. It's the slightly better equivalent of the 6870 I have, and that's still running games on my rig at the highest settings just fine. Any lower than that and you may run into problems later on.

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I'm getting an occasional freeze during most games, where the graphics stop for several seconds but the sound continues, then the game recovers.  It happens more often at higher game quality settings.  I thought it was my old underpowered card, but I installed a new 660 ti yesterday and it's just as bad. 

 

i5-3570K

GTX 660 ti

8 GB RAM

 

TT 600W PSU

games and OS installed on a Samsung 840 250gb drive

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I did double check the mobo firmware, and duplicated the issue on each memory stick individually to rule out the RAM.  

 

My PSU is fairly new so it's possible that it's faulty, I picked it up a few weeks ago when my old one died.  I can't say for sure if the issue began then since I was still using the old 8800 GTS and didn't game too often.  I've got a 750w modular unit I can try, but I couldn't find the PCI-E cables for it so I ordered a couple. 

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You should be fine with an i5-3570K and GTX 660 ti on a good quality 600w PSU.  I'm running SLI 660 OC with a 2500K on a Corsair 620w PSU.

 

I gather TT PSUs aren't regarded that highly and tend to put out less than advertised.  I don't know what your modular one is but I think you should be using either Corsair, Seasonic or similar.

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I seem to collect cheap PSUs, the 750w is indeed a Thermatake, and I have a 500w Ultra kicking around.  The one that finally died after five years was a fancy chrome Ultra.  I even found an old 250w TT GPU-only-booster I had forgotten about.  I've disabled the extra storage drives, and since the freezing issue happens with any combination of the above I'm confident I've ruled out the power supply as the source of the problem.  

I also tried disabling my mild CPU overclock, with no result--I'm running out of stuff to try.  

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Does your motherboard have integrated graphics, or do you have another card hanging around you can try? Or even one you can yank from a friend's pc for a bit. Couldn't hurt to rule out the graphics card.

 

If that doesn't work, and it is actually a hardware issue, you may have a faulty motherboard. All my little glitches that I had recently were completely the fault of my mobo.

Edited by WeirdoTransvestite

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Issue was present with my old card (8800 GTS 640); I thought it was just a symptom of being underpowered for current games until I installed the new card and it's still happening.  It's present in Far Cry 3, Assassin's Creed 3, StarCraft 2, and Hitman 5, but not in BF3 or MW3, at least I couldn't get it to freeze during a level or two.  

 

It's not locked up, I'm able to start Task Manager and the display works fine outside the games.  Most games recover after a few seconds and I can continue playing.  Lowering the settings a bit I was able to play FC3 for hours with only one or two freezes.  

 

It does happen more often with higher settings.  I've been using the Hitman benchmark to test, and on "high" I'll see a couple 10FPS stutters and a couple of 3-5 second full freezes within the demo--not the performance I expected from a 660ti.  I can dial the settings down so it won't freeze during the short benchmark, somewhere between "low" and "medium".  

 

What I've tried out so far: 

RAM: no errors in Memtest, issue presents with either stick and in dual channel

MB/CPU: Tried both PCI-E slots, latest firmware, stock clock.   

GPU: Tried a couple older drivers, and two different cards.  Tried locking Physx to the CPU, no change.  

PSU: Identical freezing on four different power supplies, or running video card off dedicated PSU.  

HDD: removed storage drives, running only the SSD it still freezes.  

 

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