Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Yeah the tanaka has a hop, which is why its strange the WE doesn't. It may be that the Hop system on the tanaka is different and we don't recognise it as hop up.

 

The Western Arms pistol hop adjustment is very different from a KSC or a Marui hop. Some KWC hop ups are also very different (e.g. KWC SIGMA)

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 59
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Tanaka hop is a grub screw applying pointy pressure on the rubber tube in which the BB's are launched from.

We has same construction,but as the first review points out,fitting a grub screw makes it a problem,not a improvement.

Fully confident in hitting targets up to 25mtr away with standard setup.

With tanaka barrel fitted and a wee touch of 'hop' the BB's start to climb and curve of to the right at 15-20mtr.

To hit target at 25mtr I had to aim very low and to the left.Sight adjustment can be done but not that much!

The WE also is a far better paperweight compared to the Tanaka,it actually weighs 60grams less than my real one.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...

I own both the Tanaka (not working) and a new WE model. The parts are mostly interchangable but the slide from the Tanaka does not seem to move freely on the WE. The barrels are interchangable and the Tanaka barrel with hop up is definitely the better system. I get about 100 feet of very accurate range using it set up this way (50-60 with the WE barrel assembly). The gas capacity between the 2 magazines is very close to what was quoted earlier and both do operate fine in the WE. I did find that the rocket valve set up seems to be entirely different and actually seem to operate opposite of one another. The WE does seem to be a gun that requires alot of lubricant, at least so far.(<500 rounds). I have only shot .25 bb's out of it and with the Tanaka barrel I am very happy with it. Its similarity to the RS version is amazing both in form and function. I did not have the issue with bb's rising and going left. Mine fly pretty straight and level however I do seem to get a flyer every 10 shots or so. Overall I like this very much even in its stock configuration.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've only used and all I've got is.20's.Heavier may be better with Tanaka barrel.My Tanaka 1935 Mil slide fits great and err slides easily.

The BB's fly right on this side of the planet,maybe the direction is different due to different hemispheres,like how water spirals down plug 'ole.

Even though mine is starting to fail,I'll still get another one,it's cheap,works and I don't skirmish and its excellent for practicing when not shooting the real deal.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I own both the Tanaka (not working) and a new WE model. The parts are mostly interchangable but the slide from the Tanaka does not seem to move freely on the WE. The barrels are interchangable and the Tanaka barrel with hop up is definitely the better system. I get about 100 feet of very accurate range using it set up this way (50-60 with the WE barrel assembly). The gas capacity between the 2 magazines is very close to what was quoted earlier and both do operate fine in the WE. I did find that the rocket valve set up seems to be entirely different and actually seem to operate opposite of one another. The WE does seem to be a gun that requires alot of lubricant, at least so far.(<500 rounds). I have only shot .25 bb's out of it and with the Tanaka barrel I am very happy with it. Its similarity to the RS version is amazing both in form and function. I did not have the issue with bb's rising and going left. Mine fly pretty straight and level however I do seem to get a flyer every 10 shots or so. Overall I like this very much even in its stock configuration.

 

Ummm intresting, mags definitely don't work the other way around.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

question: the real steel grips fits we hi power? TIA.

 

No.The WE frame has extra metal in the cut outs on each side.You could file the protrusions off.

 

Another update.Now 1 mag has become uppity.Keeps falling out in use,the mag catch slot has slight wear.

Will attack it with that file(you know,the file some ejit uses to wreck/mutilate objects) or continue to have to hold it in while using.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, mine worked flawlessly for the first 1000+ BB's then.......

Further update: Now the Tanaka mags work but the WE ones have feeding problems.

I can see wear on certain trip levers and such.Appears to be the little lever which keeps the gas flowing for blowback action is worn,

causing a jam on slide traveling forward.If I hold the WE mags in and to the rear it works.Not holding mag in,jam.

Trigger pull is getting even worse.

Link to post
Share on other sites

SCAR Ls tasteless? No..... ACUs? Maybe :P

 

Any way, back on topic. I've been wanting a Browning Hi Power for a long time so this one really got my attention.

How is the fit and finnish on this thing? I'm mainly concerned about the fit on this one as it's really sloppy on my WE 1911 and it's really disheartening. The slop has created problems and miscelaneous pieces of metal has mysteriously fallen out from inside the gun.

 

Is this thing any better?

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a bit tighter tolerances than the WE M1911A1. I noticed that as well on my 1911. It's really wobbly and the loose construction kind of got to me at first. I got used to it though, and then when I went to shoot my real M1911A1, it felt really weird shooting a 1911 that was well-built. Lol.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Just bought one after 6 months of contemplating. Its a good buy. I fired 5 mags out of the currently.

 

I find that, out of the box:

 

- Trigger is UNBEARABLY ######. The trigger just doesn't release with any normal trigger pressure. I have to really squeeze it, and feels like I am going to break the trigger bar. I quickly filed and reshaped the hammer sear for a smoother release.

- Accuracy is excellent at 5m. Much more so than most pistols I have. Tolerances are very good.

- The hop up is the same as the Tanaka, but it has no grub screw. It just requires an addition of a grub screw for hop to work.

- Its hefty. Feels excellent in hand.

 

I had a broken Tanaka Mk3 lying around so I quickly tried a few things:

- Inner barrel assembly of the Tanaka does not fit the WE

- Tanaka MK3 slide does not fit the WE GP1935

- The MK3 grips fit the WE

- The Ambi-safety switches fit the WE

 

So that was good, so now I have a light release trigger with Mk3 furniture and hop up.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,

 

Can anyone drop a photo of the firing pin of the GBB? It seems like I have missing a steel part that push the valve of the mag.

 

And more, can anyone send me a scan or point me to where I can download a exploding-part chart of the weapons.

 

Mine came from REDWOLF airsoft without the manual, without the nuts on the guide of the slide that buffer between the guide and the recoil spring and (possibly) without the steel part that is the firing pin. I have no words from them.

 

My GBB is able to fire but not to slide back (recoil) and load another BB and push the hammer. I must to this manually. I will open another post to put some photos.

 

PS: I posted last days a post with problems with my WE Hi-Power 1935 in the wrong section and a clever site admin decided to delete my post instead moving to the proper section, thanks to him for his collaboration.

 

THanks in advance.

 

Bye

Link to post
Share on other sites

Well if it fires,the "firing pin" is there.

What nuts? Do you mean the thin metal washers and the rubber bit?

The return spring sits on a rod which can only go in one way,unless you've managed to jam it in upside down.

What gas you using?

If it fires but doesn't blowback, give it a good dose of silicone spray.

If the firing is a weak phut,the mag may be leaking.

Can you post pics of the pistol disassembled?

Edited by cptdarling506
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Its not the hammer spring causing the high trigger tension, its the contact surface between the trigger sear and the hammer. Reshaping that will minimise wear on the hammer and also decrease trigger tension on the browning.

 

All it takes 30 seconds on a small modelling file, and no need to take it out of the frame either.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.