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G&P Stoner MK.23 LMG


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I got a chance to test the range on my gun this morning. I immediately noticed that the hop-up was over correcting. Rotating the hopup drum either way had no change on the BB trajectory. So it looks like I'm going to have to open up the gun and get into the hopup chamber. Is that easy to do? Anyone got a step by step?

 

As for the battery, the Gens Ace lipo I linked to above is *perfect* for the Stoner. It uses the maximum amount of space in the stock and yet still gives you just enough room to took the cables into the left over space.

 

Another thing I noticed is that the lipo battery still has a high enough ROF that the box mag can't keep up quite enough. So I can do a 100 round burst but still need to take 2-3 second breaks to let the box mag catch up. Perhaps I need a new 9V battery.

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I've taken mine down and it's pretty easy. I used the photos in this thread and the schematic. You should do fine. Hardest part was getting some of the pins out, they were pretty stubborn.

 

I could be wrong, but from what I understand the 9v only powers the button to preload the box, the gun battery runs the autowind when shooting. Nevermind, I think I mis-read something.

Edited by double_a
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I got a chance to test the range on my gun this morning. I immediately noticed that the hop-up was over correcting. Rotating the hopup drum either way had no change on the BB trajectory. So it looks like I'm going to have to open up the gun and get into the hopup chamber. Is that easy to do? Anyone got a step by step?

 

As for the battery, the Gens Ace lipo I linked to above is *perfect* for the Stoner. It uses the maximum amount of space in the stock and yet still gives you just enough room to took the cables into the left over space.

 

Another thing I noticed is that the lipo battery still has a high enough ROF that the box mag can't keep up quite enough. So I can do a 100 round burst but still need to take 2-3 second breaks to let the box mag catch up. Perhaps I need a new 9V battery.

 

yeah I noticed that to on the first run, after that I changed it out tot a systema soft together with a H-element black nub, I 've been getting pretty good results ever since, mind you I brought her down to 300 fps to prolong it's life, so it works great with the soft rubber... if you run it at higher fps I don't know what rubber would work with that

 

and as double_a has mentioned it isn't that hard to take down

 

I haven't had any problems with the box and it's 9V keeping up the feed, I rarely shoot for more then 2 seconds at a time, so couldn't say.

 

My buddy has had some problems in the beginning, he just changed out the 9V and no porblems after that. So we think he had a bad batt...

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  • 2 months later...

Here are the pics already, some explaining will follow later, should be working right now...

 

 

dscf0079.jpg

 

 

 

Don't know if you knew it, but the outer and inner barrel is quick detachable like the real one (with a bit of modding). Makes getting the box out a lot easier than disassembling the entire front.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Well there are some guys over here in Wallonië who got some to, a guy who got his about a year ago taught a guy who got one a week ago how to dismantle it, side by side... and they could not see any differences internally... 100% the same

 

The second, reinforced, stock does come with it though, the material is thicker and the mounting bracket the stock is molded onto is larger and more substantial, but not much, but it is sturdier...

 

But I still think the stock problems didn't run completely through that first production run... Although I know two guys I know directly received there's broken upon arrival... my teammate and I also got one, and we have had no problems, I've played with mine for two years now a LOT... slung all the time, so there is definately stress on the stock, bummed into trees... and still no probs.

 

- The little part that you use to open the BB reservoir has broken off, but it's actually better that way :) The door can't fall inside the reservoir itself because is runs in tracks that has build-in stops. It's way easier to open it now and it can't fall to the outside to cuz the door of the outside plastic box covers it.

 

- It really isn't a support weapon like other guys use over here, the 1200 are really to little BB's to give adequate and substantial support, so I use mine like a big M16. I always try and keep it topped off to avoid rattling noises.

 

- One thing my buddy and mine noticed is that when you leave the 9V batt hooked up during play you can here the gearbox of the magazine ticking over... that means that the flexspring is full off BB's but it's still trying to fill it to the top and into the chamber... So when in the morning I hook it up to get the first BB's to the top I use the little button, but then I disconnect it and play like that... the battery is enough to keep the feed going...

 

When I pull the trigger the BB's that get fired are instantly replaced, when I let go of the trigger all feeding stops to, So no prob there...

 

- I get the best results using a 9.9V LiFePo overall, very good rate of fire, I used 11V to, but sooner or later something is going to break, I am going back to college so I am thinking off my wallet at the moment :)

 

Never had a feed problem, jam... All electrics hold up fine and dandy, gearbox is real smooth, G&P really did a fine job at this...

 

But they really shouldn't have made the " shabby" version, real stoners don't weather like that and they REALLY shouldn't have made the tactical version, there on sale in almost every other webshop... So nobody wants them...

The marketing boys over at G&P missed the ball on that completely...

 

They should have concentrated there efforts on making some nice long barrel 63A and/or left-feed version conversions kits...

 

I recently asked G&P if there were any plans in that direction, and the answer was negative...

Edited by blablabla
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  • 3 months later...

Finally got mine.... I had to change the spring since it was shooting 495 fps! (Canadian importation laws...) What a beast! box mag is fantastic, stock is solid. Shoots real straight. The only wobble I have is is the handguard.

 

I greatly recommend this Stoner instead of the Ares one!

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At first I thought that the hopUp in my Mk23 was having no effect and I had a lemon. There was probably some kind of bur or flash left over from the plastic molding process because when we were testing the gun a few weeks back we were able to apply a little more force and dial the hopup to the perfect setting. The gun now shoots perfectly flat and accurately with everything we've fed it. We used it at a major game this summer and were beyond pleased with the results.

 

Highly recommended as well!

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  • 5 months later...

So at the risk of annoying the die hard Nam players, has anyone fitted the RAS kit to this?

 

Bought the kit and although it doesn't come with any instructions, it seems that the 4 screws for the RAS hand guard are too small and the locking plate is too thick!

 

Before I start modifying everything, any advice would be appreciated…

 

Later daze

 

Lee

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So I've read through 99% of this thread, but can only find a vague answer to my question:

 

Will a standard aeg tightbore work in the Stoner, and if so, what brand/length?

 

Frankly, the thing is deadly accurate stock, but a little extra accuracy never killed anyone... Except the bad guys that is ;-)

 

Sent from my totally sexy, Android powered, IPod killing, Samsung Galaxy S3 ;-)

 

 

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Well, to tell you honestly, don't know... :)

 

I know from disassembly that the cut-outs for the barrel clip are in a different place then your standard run-of-the-mill AR barrel... I had a tightbore laying around back then and laid them side by side, and they indeed didn't match

I noticed that from the start but never changed it out because like you said the accuracy was fine...

 

Latest I heard was that the barrel is the same as a P90 type, because the hop-up ressembles a P90 hop-up unit

 

Maybe take a barrel to a shop and lay them side by side with different tight barrels, you'll have your answer soon enough I guess

Edited by blablabla
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I'm sitting with a friend's MK23 that i've tested over a long time. The barrel is replaced, and it doesn't work properly. It can move back and fort 1-2mm, and while it mostly shoots ok, at some point the hopup rubber gets moved forward too and the nozzle loses seal.

 

So in my opinion only the stock barrel works.

 

Since my friend was smart and cut up his MK23 barrel instead of saving it, i'm in a situation where i need to fix it anyhow...

 

The main problem is that the standard cutouts on an AEG barrel overlap where they should be on the MK23 barrel, which means that cutting out clip cutouts just makes the original cutouts longer rather than 2 seperate cutouts.

 

It may be possible to work around this by using the barrel clip in reverse, but there's some other problems associated with that too...

 

 

If someone could take a side-by-side pic of the stock barrel and another barrel, it would be greatly appreciated.

I think the hopup window is also cut differently.

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Interesting. Thanks for the feedback guys...

 

Something that I though about while I was reading your responses, is that the Guarder 6.02 barrels have multiple cuts in them. I've got one in my Ares LMG. Perhaps if I get a wild hair to disassemble the 63 sometime soon, I can do a side by side... Also, the new Modify Hybrid barrels seem to have multiple cuts as well. Might be worth a look...

 

Thanks again for the responses!

 

 

Sent from my totally sexy, Android powered, IPod killing, Samsung Galaxy S3 ;-)

Edited by Hut73
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