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G&P Stoner MK.23 LMG

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Picked one of these up the other day and I love it to bits.


One thing though my fore-grip is a little wobbly can that be rectified but tightening up certain bolts or something ? I'd strip it down and try myself but I've next to no idea how it all comes apart thanks in part the the rather vague instructions included.


look at the previous page my man

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My gearbox broke too after only one game, about 3000 rounds in a little over 2 hours, so i was running it pretty hard. I need to open it up, but I think it's a piston. I was running a 11.1v 2200 lipo. The gun was great while it worked. Accurate, no feeding issues, got a ton of kills in those two hours.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Just got mine brand new.

Gearbox was grinding like mad.

Reshimmed gears and reset the motor. Still sounded awful.

The gearbox internals are ######.


Problems and answers:

1. The cylinder had two deep gouges in it. The cylinder head o-ring was already tearing. Replace with Guarder lucid cylinder (full)

2. The pistonhead is attached with a heavy weighted slug inside the piston. This the last part that you would want to be heavy.

(Think of a air hammer). Replaced with Guarder polycarb piston head with bearings.

3. The cylinder head leaked and did not seal well with the air nozzle replaced with Guarder double seal stainless cylinder head.

Replaced internals with Prome double torque gearset, Prome piston. Guarder cylinder head and poycarb piston.

4. The stock air nozzle is metal and scapes and sticks on the cylinder head. Replaced with Prome airseal nozzle. Nice and smooth and good airseal. The Stoner uses AK47 airseal nozzles. M16 nozzle is too long.

5. Stock hopup bucking is thinner than a trojan condom and has a lousy seal. Replaced with Guarder clear.

6. Stock gears grind horribly. Even with a shim job still sounded like ######, placed a big strain on the motor and you could feel the heat buildup in both the motor and battery even after short full auto bursts. Replaced with Prome Double Torque gearset. So smooth now you can't hear the gears any more. Motor meshes well and does not heat up under full auto anymore.

7. Replaced the tappet plate with Marui one. I didn't like the shark find and don't use a sector delay button.(never needed it).

Probably not necessary but at this point why the hell not.

8. The stock barrel has uniquely positioned hopup clip retainer notches. Not the same position as stock TM, Prome, KM TN etc. Not the same as M14. You can use a different barrel but it will have play in the hop up unit. Not good. Basically your stuck with the stock barrel or you need to mod and cut a after market M14 barrel. Grrr.


WIth a 18 month old Guarder M110 spring, its shooting 396 to 400 with Excel Bio .20g bb's.

Love the externals, the gearbox internals are complete rubbish. G&P should sell this as a kit and let you put your own internals in.

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Left to right. The prome package that the nozzle I used came from. It says AK, I don't read any Japanese. The silver nozzle is from the Stoner. The black nozzle is a Systema M16. So the stock nozzle is obviously shorter than the M16 nozzle. Does the AK nozzle come in different lengths? I did not think so, but I could be wrong.



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The G&P Mk23, as an AEG, is overall easier to skirmish with than the G&P Mk46. I have both guns (actually two of the Mk46s, one para version and one full stock version). The Mk46 is a nice and well made gun. However it is also quite heavy. In an all day event, that weight really adds up, but it is usable. The other issue with the Mk46 is that the box mag needs to be user activated to feed rounds via a remote button. In contrast, the G&P Mk23 is very light. Unloaded, it feels like a long barreled AR15. Loaded up, it's a bit heavier obviously, but still nowhere near as heavy as the Mk46. The Mk23 also has a great automatic feed mechanism so as rounds are fired, the system automatically knows to feed the gun without the need for a user activated remote button. The available battery storage space is similar in size between the two guns, however the ammo capacity of the Mk46 (3000 rounds) is more than double that of the Mk23 (1200 rounds). Ultimately though, I think the Mk23 is more practical in terms of performance for the average SAW gunner given it's lighter weight, simpler feed mechanism and equally good (perhaps even better) hopup. The ammo capacity though less than the Mk46, is still equivalent to 10 x AR15 midcaps which should be adequate for most engagements and still makes it fun for the opposition so that when the OPFOR SAW gun is down it gives them a chance to rush or flank. Honestly, if I could get all the advantages the Mk23 has in a Mk46 aesthetic (lighter weight gun, good hopup, auto winding mag, 1200 round capacity, but with the appearance of a Mk46), I'd buy the Mk46 all over again. I'm not crazy about the Mk23 aesthetic. I've always been more into modern guns. As much as people hate on the Mk63A1 Tactical Rail Version of the Mk23 I personally like the somewhat modernized take on it. Ultimately, I have more of a function over form mindset when it comes to SAWs. But that's me.

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I like this battery:

GENS ACE 5300mah 2S1P 7.4V 30C LiPo RC Battery Pack


Huge capacity. Great discharge rate. And a strong rate of fire. Anything more than that and with enough sustained fire you may shorten the life of your internals. The above battery WILL fit in both the G&P Stoner Mk23 and all G&P SAWs.

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yup, those are some great batteries, I also one of those RC type batts... great ROF with 7.4V and 30C, without tearing up your gearbox to little bits. Sometimes people ask at games what kind of voltage I run it on and nobody tends to believe it.


I also am very happy about those corally connectors, some people call them "golden bullets" I think, you can even here the change in ROF, for the better!


Last week I got a 9.9V LiFePo to try this weekend, I was thinking about getting one for some time and ordered one from hobbyking, already went about about tinkering with it and the results spoke for themselfs, damn...

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