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renegadecow

AK & Variants Picture Thread

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:P I'm not too worried about an LCT kit because this is just a fun project gun as a backup. I'd just rather not have the stock snap off! Quite embarassing.

 

http://img135.imageshack.us/i/imagexyj.jpg/

http://img526.imageshack.us/i/imageoii.jpg/

 

If push comes to shove ill pull the gearbox out and affix a bracket somehow.

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Ouch, yeah that is a pretty tough fix.

 

Its such a thin section, no glue or epoxy is going to bond there very well. And the hing functioning would be not possible just trying to patch it.

 

If it was mine I would make a whole new base plate. I would layer some ABS plastic together and cut it to shape on a band saw to be the base plate. Drill out the holes on a drill press or just by hand (I'm pretty good, use a drill press unless you think you got vertical square drill skills). The holes would be sized for the correct inner diameter brass tubing as a sleeve in each side of the hinge, epoxied in to the new ABS plastic base plate. This would keep the swivel metal on metal and make it last longer.

 

I might add some 1mm aluminum plate tabs on the internal contact surfaces of the new base plate, cut and filed to fit the space perfectly for better rigidity. I would use that aluminum on the tab for the release on the new base, or a similar little rectangle of metal filed to the proper shape.

 

Its a tough fix, not really worth it unless your a skilled hobbyist or professional prototype and model maker (in training, another year and a half to a degree in Industrial Product Design!) It would take me a few hours or more. But I don't have a folding stock like, so I would do it... if it was mine... you maybe want to sell it to me for a few bucks if you don't fix it or just epoxy it closed or open?

 

To epoxy it open, salvage a chunk of plastic or some bits of sheet plastic (side of old plastic thing you don't want). Make a little plastic tab the right size to go in the gap in the base plate and create more surface area to epoxy it open. Make it at least 3mm thick (glue thinner layers together then cut and file to shape to get thicker parts). Closed would be harder without making a visible mess, suggest just take it off and make a plastic plate to cover the back of the receiver.

 

Can you remove the pin easily?

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I think I can remove the pin. I will probably just go ahead and put a piece of plastic in the gap and then epoxy see the entire thing in the open position. However I have one question. How important is the hinge in maintaining stability in keeping the stock "straight and level"? I only ask because right now it works, I just have to be gentle when I'm changing it between open and closed. I like being able to fold the stock closed, it's a little helpful for getting around some of the tight spaces where I play. Now, I may just leave it like that until it ends up finally breaking. Then I can apply the epoxy, but my fear is if the other end of the hinge breaks, does that negate my ability (even with the right side lock intact ) to epoxy the stock in? I assume as long as the pin can sit in its channel, I should be able to set it in still. Especially since the stock has that little protrusion that sticks into the receiver.

 

Sorry for all of pictures everybody! If anyone has any more help you're welcome to just p.m. me instead of filling this thread with nonsense to help me fix the toy gun! :D

 

Also, fun note, Siri typed this whole message for me, and I think she finally didn't make a single error.

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I don't think it will hurt the ability to epoxy it open to use it until it breaks, you can use the surface area of the other broken tab and the pin as contact surfaces to epoxy making the bond stronger then just filling one and the gap in the middle. No promises but that is what I suspect will happen. Clean and lightly sand the areas when you do glue it.

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Leon you have PM!

 

ALMOST.

 

pic

wait a minute, I just realized; this is no Mag-KU! I guess I forgot, did you kill that project?

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Beast mode. It looks just really "complete".

 

Also, AZN, you never PMd me back. :D If you have any TM style bodies I could use one sometime.

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Enough talk, lets walk!

 

My new LCT build kit:

 

DSC_0340sm.jpg

 

DSC_0342sm.jpg

 

DSC_0343sm.jpg

 

DSC_0344sm.jpg

 

DSC_0345sm.jpg

 

Full steel AKMMS, I once owned a KLS AKMS and it felt like a toy compared to this, oh boy...

 

Some updates on my rail Frankenstein:

-Tan rubber pad

-Sawed off the original front sight, and put a SR25 flip-up front side on the rail

 

customakSM.jpg

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Enough talk, lets walk!

 

My new LCT build kit:

 

Full steel AKMMS, I once owned a KLS AKMS and it felt like a toy compared to this, oh boy...

 

Some updates on my rail Frankenstein:

-Tan rubber pad

-Sawed off the original front sight, and put a SR25 flip-up front side on the rail

 

 

 

nice. where did you find the slab sided mags?

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The photo was taken in a slight angle, the sr-25 sight is actually visible between rails.

 

The slab sided mags are found in a local army shop here in finland.

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Enough talk, lets walk!

 

My new LCT build kit:

 

 

Full steel AKMMS, I once owned a KLS AKMS and it felt like a toy compared to this, oh boy...

 

Some updates on my rail Frankenstein:

-Tan rubber pad

-Sawed off the original front sight, and put a SR25 flip-up front side on the rail

 

 

 

What kind of rail is in the front and back? I have CYMA 050A project with some similar ideas... yours look really good.

Edited by J.J.Simpson

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@ Bloodsword: I don't comment on many things in pic threads, but that AKMMS is one sexy beast. What did you drop in for a gearbox if you don't mind me asking?

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The rails on the AK are a regular SVD one (the black closer to the rear), and the metal hand guard RIS is an ACM make from Ehobbyasia (costed only like 30-40$).

 

Thanks ruvon, its a nice and simple gun, rock solid too! I had a spare Tokyo Marui V3 gearbox lying around, so I tucked it in.

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So then it is built like a true tank! Can't beat that man.

 

I'm seriously thinking that I'm going either Real Sword or LCT for the next round of AK purchases this winter. It may just be LCT, I'm looking to build something in an East German flavor, and a RS seem's to be more hassle and less of what I really need to have for the project.

I do so want to have a RS in the collection someday though.

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QUESTION

 

I may have sourced DBoys steel (better than CYMA pot metal?) externals, whole thing, for a good price. Now, problem is, the guy is pretty sure he doesn't have the body pins. I was gonna just drop a gearbox, hop and barrel in, but it looks like I'd have to source pins. Anyone know where to get em, or anyone here have some?

Edited by Leon Kennedy

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So then it is built like a true tank! Can't beat that man.

 

I'm seriously thinking that I'm going either Real Sword or LCT for the next round of AK purchases this winter. It may just be LCT, I'm looking to build something in an East German flavor, and a RS seem's to be more hassle and less of what I really need to have for the project.

I do so want to have a RS in the collection someday though.

LCT AIMS, accept no substitute.

 

RealSword is awesome but only when model works for loadout(trying to use dremel on a steel rifle is a pain; putting AKM parts, which require smaller outerdiameter barrel, is also a pain, stock angle is that of AK47...etc.).

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