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HAY GUYS! I has AK too. Can I join?

My collection: It includes one or two cousins, sorry for this.      

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Thanks, the hardest part of the build was removing the LCT's hopup attachment as it was held on with Loctite. I had to heat the end of the barrel up and put it in a vise before wrenching that bit off.

 

As for the US Palm grip, it was fairly easy. Because the generation 4 engines have a slimmer grip attachment point, all I had to do to the battlegrip was cut away some of the interior at the top with a modeling razor saw. Then it slid on just fine. Using the supplied grip screw from DG, I filed down a washer to fit in the bottom of the grip, which is what holds it on. I am using the metal spacer for the time being as I need to cut out part of the front of the grip to accommodate the trigger guard and get a shorter grip bolt.

 

Cheers,

Piano

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I wish I could tell you all of the differences, but the ones I know about is that the half-moon at the rear of the bolt is now permanently part of the bolt instead of bolted on, the guide rod continues all the way into the upper handguard so that you don't need the receiver's rails to keep the bolt straight (a plus imho), and that is uses more air than the gen 3. DRK can set me straight though as I believe he has quite a few DGs.

 

*edit* I've finished modifying the US Palm grip and will post pictures of it tomorrow showing what was done to it.

 

Cheers,

Piano

Edited by PianoBlack
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After a long break from the AK platform, my new suchka: 

 

12281.JPG12282.JPG

 

CM045A with a Dboys FH, replica Docter on a homemade mount, refinished handguards, and a cheek pad borrowed from an SVD.  I fakelited a couple L&G "flash" Lonex knockoff mags--they work very well once filed down to fit the magwell.  On order: surplus Ukranian sling, midcaps (maybe I'll get industrious and file the ridges off this time), Dboys laminated furniture.  It's internally stock apart from a lipo and some hopup voodoo.  

 

Tallying the cost from bone stock to meeting my looks and performance standards, this is by far my least expensive gun.  It would have been even cheaper and easier if I had gone with the plum CM045, as the Cyma wood is not great.  

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After a long break from the AK platform, my new suchka:

 

https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-O4BGCVa-pRQ/UN35L6iVzdI/AAAAAAAACxQ/ZkzoUFUv_MY/s800/12281.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ewHHXn30Yy8/UN35TZ3hWII/AAAAAAAACxY/xV_F5t47BSo/s800/12282.JPG

 

CM045A with a Dboys FH, replica Docter on a homemade mount, refinished handguards, and a cheek pad borrowed from an SVD. I fakelited a couple L&G "flash" Lonex knockoff mags--they work very well once filed down to fit the magwell. On order: surplus Ukranian sling, midcaps (maybe I'll get industrious and file the ridges off this time), Dboys laminated furniture. It's internally stock apart from a lipo and some hopup voodoo.

 

Tallying the cost from bone stock to meeting my looks and performance standards, this is by far my least expensive gun. It would have been even cheaper and easier if I had gone with the plum CM045, as the Cyma wood is not great.

That looks pretty cool, but I'd like to see more of the Docter sight mount. I'm wondering how you put that on there.

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It's the fake Docter with a power switch on the mount instead of a light sensor, that I chopped up a long time ago to put on a SpecterDR.  All I did was drill a couple of holes in the top cover and tap matching ones in the mount.  It's nice to find a use for an optic that was kicking around my parts box forever, but not a method I would recommend.   

 

I was originally going to use the mini RDS base portion of this mount from the same parts box, which would have turned out a little nicer and possibly sat lower.  It tapers at the base, but not quite enough to sit flat inside the rear sight, so some material removal would be involved.    

 

You could also make your own StormWerks mount with tons of Dremeling on a section of rail (or just go nuts and buy one), but it's going to sit taller than an RDS base will.  

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That's exactly what i want ThegreatMrPoo! I asked bingo how much it would cost to do afew days ago lol

 

How do you find it?

The FPS with .20g      

@80PSI - 485 FPS

@120PSI - 565 FPS

 

I Still have some tuning to do, the MINIMUM weight BB that I can effectively use is .40g

I was able to get a 250ft+ kill untuned.

But so far it's been a very expensive project.

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