Wingmann Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 First of all, the gun INITIAL IMPRESSIONS As all the modern 8mm G&P guns that I've had the chance to touch, the replica is very well constructed, with quality and solid materials. There are no loose parts or creaky sounds and common controls work with fine mechanical tolerances. The gun is quite light at 2.5Kg and very manageable. Facing is quick and sights are easy to use. The stock is a bit stiff, as it touches the tube's down side, but I'll let use take care of that. EXTERNALS This is an all-metal gun except for the right plastic bits, such as the grip and stock. It's got an alluminium body, but I don't know what the external barrel, front sight and flashider are made of. Magnets attach to the barrel and flashider though. Sight is probably calamine. I won't enter the correction of the replica compared to the real steel, but it looks good to me. Markings are those of a M16A1 though. Apparently G&P used the lowers they had available. As you can see in the pics, the body colour is grey and the overall aspect of the gun is excellent. INTERNALS The replica was shooting at 400fps, so I opened it to change the spring and check its guts. Opening it has no difference with any other G&P M4: Push out the front pin -in this case a weird two-parts pin with a locking bolt- and the upper receiver will slide off. Undo the stock and stock bolt and then push out the rear pin, the small pin over the trigger and take the mag release out. Once inside the gearbox there's nothing unusual for a G&P 8mm box: Allu spring guide without bearings, metallic nozzle, sector gear with integrated clip, 8mm bearings, 16 gauge wire... Grease amount was spot on in my gun, so it was the shimming. The piston is the usual white fiber one, with three (I think) metallic teeth and the second one already removed. Cylinder is NON-ported, so if you have an upper with a 400mm inner barrel it'll shoot quite hard. Feel free to ask any questions and I'll see if I can answer them Cheers! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
dFrog Posted May 21, 2011 Report Share Posted May 21, 2011 Just one question. Does it have self-retaining front locking pin ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted May 22, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2011 No. The front pin -as described above- is a two-part pin with an inner locking bolt. If you tighten the bolt enough the two parts go offset and it's not possible to get it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Elite Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Hi Wingmann good review mate. Im very tempted by an old school G&P AR but wanted to know a few things. Firstly can the flashider be easily removed and swapped with any other 14mm negative thread flashider/silencer? What size battery do you use and whats the effective range like as standard? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hwagan Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 Nice review man - Is the E2 front or rear wired, out of curiosity? None of mine have come with the fancy locking pin, including my Car-15... Cheats! Also, Elite - All G&P's use positive threading, so negative stuff won't go on unfortunately - They're also threadlocked on out the box, so they take a bit of leverage to unscrew the first time around. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
spetsnazdave87 Posted May 25, 2011 Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 It's rear wired for stock tube lipo hwagan. I didn't get the fancy locking pin either! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted May 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 25, 2011 (edited) Hi Wingmann good review mate. Im very tempted by an old school G&P AR but wanted to know a few things. Firstly can the flashider be easily removed and swapped with any other 14mm negative thread flashider/silencer? It can be easily removed, but it's a 14+ thread, as all G&Ps. You can find a silencer for it without problems. What size battery do you use and whats the effective range like as standard? I use 7.4v LiPos, normally a G&P 1200mAh 20C or a Firefox 1600mAh 20C (about 1/5th longer). They both can be stored in the stock if it's is in the 2nd or 3rd positions.I normally test my replicas in a 50m range against a metal plate about the size of a human torso. Given that the OOTB gun shoots at 400fps you can hit that pretty nicely Anyway using a SP100 spring @~350 only the speed changes and the BBs reach the same spot, just a tad slower. Right now I'm using the default bucking with an Element H nub (the black one this time). Hop adjustment is easy and effective. Nice review man - Is the E2 front or rear wired, out of curiosity? None of mine have come with the fancy locking pin, including my Car-15... Cheats! It's rear wired. Mine came with the fancy pin but no threadlock! As added info, the plastic MAG VN type plastic magazines work flawlessly in this gun. Edited May 25, 2011 by Wingmann Quote Link to post Share on other sites
adrian_geot Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 nice review mate! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bladerunner168 Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Good concise review. I think this would be the only AEG where I would leave the externals untouched. Simply a very evocative design and piece of kit. 'Nam kit always reminds me of when I was 13, watching "Tour of Duty" on ITV. Not plugging but LWA have it for £250 inc delivery, darn fine price when it's only a touch more than HK prices when you factor in VAT/Duty/Ransom fee Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Elite Posted May 26, 2011 Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Ive got my eyes set on the G&P m733 from landwarrior its £220 not sure what postage is on top of that though. Thats a bummer for the threads to be positive considering the majority of airsoft is 14mm negative. Ive got my tracer silencer in mind for night games but looks like itll need an adapter. Havn't made the move to Lipo yet so what NiMH batteries will work? Also whats the mag compatibility like with G&P AEG's? Cheers Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Wingmann Posted May 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2011 Thats a bummer for the threads to be positive considering the majority of airsoft is 14mm negative. There are silencer units that have both threads, one on each side. They are slightly harder to find, but not at all that difficult Havn't made the move to Lipo yet so what NiMH batteries will work? Also whats the mag compatibility like with G&P AEG's? I'm not sure you will find any NiMH batteries you can use inside the stock. You could try rewiring to the front. There "uses" to be enough space there. About mag compatibility, there's normally no problem, but some units are trickier than others. My Sentry won't take anything else than original PMAGs and original G&Ps. This one however -and fortunately- is less stubborn Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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