Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Wingmann

G&P XM177E2 quick review

Recommended Posts

First of all, the gun

xm177e2brs.jpg

 

xm177e2bls.jpg

 

INITIAL IMPRESSIONS

As all the modern 8mm G&P guns that I've had the chance to touch, the replica is very well constructed, with quality and solid materials. There are no loose parts or creaky sounds and common controls work with fine mechanical tolerances. The gun is quite light at 2.5Kg and very manageable. Facing is quick and sights are easy to use. The stock is a bit stiff, as it touches the tube's down side, but I'll let use take care of that.

 

EXTERNALS

This is an all-metal gun except for the right plastic bits, such as the grip and stock. It's got an alluminium body, but I don't know what the external barrel, front sight and flashider are made of. Magnets attach to the barrel and flashider though. Sight is probably calamine.

I won't enter the correction of the replica compared to the real steel, but it looks good to me. Markings are those of a M16A1 though. Apparently G&P used the lowers they had available.

As you can see in the pics, the body colour is grey and the overall aspect of the gun is excellent.

 

INTERNALS

The replica was shooting at 400fps, so I opened it to change the spring and check its guts. Opening it has no difference with any other G&P M4: Push out the front pin -in this case a weird two-parts pin with a locking bolt- and the upper receiver will slide off. Undo the stock and stock bolt and then push out the rear pin, the small pin over the trigger and take the mag release out.

Once inside the gearbox there's nothing unusual for a G&P 8mm box: Allu spring guide without bearings, metallic nozzle, sector gear with integrated clip, 8mm bearings, 16 gauge wire... Grease amount was spot on in my gun, so it was the shimming.

The piston is the usual white fiber one, with three (I think) metallic teeth and the second one already removed. Cylinder is NON-ported, so if you have an upper with a 400mm inner barrel it'll shoot quite hard.

 

Feel free to ask any questions and I'll see if I can answer them :) Cheers!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No. The front pin -as described above- is a two-part pin with an inner locking bolt. If you tighten the bolt enough the two parts go offset and it's not possible to get it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Wingmann good review mate. Im very tempted by an old school G&P AR but wanted to know a few things. Firstly can the flashider be easily removed and swapped with any other 14mm negative thread flashider/silencer?

What size battery do you use and whats the effective range like as standard?

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice review man - Is the E2 front or rear wired, out of curiosity? None of mine have come with the fancy locking pin, including my Car-15... Cheats! :P

 

 

Also, Elite - All G&P's use positive threading, so negative stuff won't go on unfortunately - They're also threadlocked on out the box, so they take a bit of leverage to unscrew the first time around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Hi Wingmann good review mate. Im very tempted by an old school G&P AR but wanted to know a few things. Firstly can the flashider be easily removed and swapped with any other 14mm negative thread flashider/silencer?
It can be easily removed, but it's a 14+ thread, as all G&Ps. You can find a silencer for it without problems.

What size battery do you use and whats the effective range like as standard?
I use 7.4v LiPos, normally a G&P 1200mAh 20C or a Firefox 1600mAh 20C (about 1/5th longer). They both can be stored in the stock if it's is in the 2nd or 3rd positions.I normally test my replicas in a 50m range against a metal plate about the size of a human torso. Given that the OOTB gun shoots at 400fps you can hit that pretty nicely :) Anyway using a SP100 spring @~350 only the speed changes and the BBs reach the same spot, just a tad slower. Right now I'm using the default bucking with an Element H nub (the black one this time). Hop adjustment is easy and effective.

 

Nice review man - Is the E2 front or rear wired, out of curiosity? None of mine have come with the fancy locking pin, including my Car-15... Cheats! :P

It's rear wired. Mine came with the fancy pin but no threadlock! :DAs added info, the plastic MAG VN type plastic magazines work flawlessly in this gun.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Good concise review.

 

I think this would be the only AEG where I would leave the externals untouched. Simply a very evocative design and piece of kit.

'Nam kit always reminds me of when I was 13, watching "Tour of Duty" on ITV.

Not plugging but LWA have it for £250 inc delivery, darn fine price when it's only a touch more than HK prices when you factor in VAT/Duty/Ransom fee biggrin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ive got my eyes set on the G&P m733 from landwarrior its £220 not sure what postage is on top of that though. Thats a bummer for the threads to be positive considering the majority of airsoft is 14mm negative. Ive got my tracer silencer in mind for night games but looks like itll need an adapter. Havn't made the move to Lipo yet so what NiMH batteries will work? Also whats the mag compatibility like with G&P AEG's?

Cheers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thats a bummer for the threads to be positive considering the majority of airsoft is 14mm negative.

There are silencer units that have both threads, one on each side. They are slightly harder to find, but not at all that difficult :)

 

Havn't made the move to Lipo yet so what NiMH batteries will work? Also whats the mag compatibility like with G&P AEG's?

 

I'm not sure you will find any NiMH batteries you can use inside the stock. You could try rewiring to the front. There "uses" to be enough space there.

About mag compatibility, there's normally no problem, but some units are trickier than others. My Sentry won't take anything else than original PMAGs and original G&Ps.

This one however -and fortunately- is less stubborn :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.