hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 That's a very good point, but the Troy Alpha can be choosy with different brands of barrel nut. I've never encountered a problem with the Omega. Edit: almost forgot - also the RS Alpha sometimes need to be modded at the bottom lower edge, nearest the receiver, if you're interested in shot gunning your gat. This is all initial install stuff though. Once it's on, the Alpha really is a breeze to remove. The Madbull Troy extremes come with a mounting nut. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) Yes, the TRX does - but that necessitates removing the original barrel nut. The Alpha, like the Omega, utilises the OEM barrel nut. Not sure you can buy the TRX anymore, in the RS. The Alpha replaced it. Edit: here's the Alpha install... http://www.systema-ptw.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=10546 Edited April 8, 2013 by The Reptile House Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 Noob question for the more experienced external builders out there... I got me a TM m4 (stock barrel nut, ring and upper...) Anyway the front handguard cap thing went FUBAR and the handguard could rotate 360 degrees as much as it wanted. I took the font sight post assembly off, any I now want to throw on a magpul handguard. Will a low profile gas block do? Want it to look something like this: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MRF Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) It's just a RS mag just clicked in to a WOC I'm afraid. Would like to know the answer to that same question myself because the Lancers have grown on me a lot. Awww... silly me. I didn't notice it's GBB at all... Edited April 8, 2013 by MRF Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) Josh - Long as there's enough material to the rear face of the gas block to keep the handguard cap in place, no worries. Just make sure you get one the same length as the standard A-frame. I've installed MOE handguards on a 12" barrel using just a G&P VLTOR low-pro block to hold it all in. This for example would work. Madbull also make one that looks just like the one you've pictured. Awww... silly me. I didn't noticed it's GBB at all... Well there's no way of telling from the left side of the rifle really, so I'm sure we'll all forgive you.Just this once mind. Edited April 8, 2013 by CKinnerley Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted April 8, 2013 Report Share Posted April 8, 2013 (edited) Noob question for the more experienced external builders out there... I got me a TM m4 (stock barrel nut, ring and upper...) Anyway the front handguard cap thing went FUBAR and the handguard could rotate 360 degrees as much as it wanted. I took the font sight post assembly off, any I now want to throw on a magpul handguard. Will a low profile gas block do? Hi. I might not be understanding your problem, but it's not the front cap that keeps the handguard from rotating 360 degrees. Your barrel nut might actually be loose as it usually keeps handguards from fully rotating (in airsoft M4's, once you remove the gas tube, you can actually twist off the barrel nut by turning the handguard hard enough); so if you put on the magpul handguard, it'll rotate as well. Again, I'm probably not understanding your problem. Edited April 8, 2013 by BaBaBooey Quote Link to post Share on other sites
STUNTMAN Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Aye okay. Thanks for the help guys. Barrel nut is fine. The hand guard cap separated from the sight post. I assume the gas block has a pin thing that goes through the little hole on the handguard cap to keep it in place? Pardon the nasty garage carpet I should really vacuum it out -Hawaiian Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Agent Hunk Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Changed some things around. Added an Aimpoint PRO which I need to paint. A Magpul sling mount, Inforce LED/IR light, and Chinese PEQ-15. I'd love to replace the 15 with an LDI ITAL but I'll wait till if/when night vision happens again. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 I assume the gas block has a pin thing that goes through the little hole on the handguard cap to keep it in place? Er - no, usually the gas tube does that job. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Er - no, usually the gas tube does that job. And if i dont have a gas tube? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 it doesnt matter, the handgaurd cap will stay in position just fine pinned in between the gas block and handguards. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Yeah but wont the handguard rotate if it is not secured?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Vila Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 A roll pin or screw attaching it to the front sight post should do the trick Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Horsem4n Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) it wont rotate if you have a normal style delta ring/barrel nut. if you dont, get one. Edited April 9, 2013 by Horsem4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kagami Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) keep on getting small bits now, snagged another Prime receiver set so I'm trying to figure out where to go with that one, hopefully less magpul this time lol. Anyways, Magpul/Noveske Limited Edition SPR. Real 11" Noveske/SWS Handguard and all that good stuff. Edited April 9, 2013 by kagami 6 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 And if i dont have a gas tube? Like the others have said, find a nice machine screw that's a close fit in terms of size, and screw it into the gasblock (which should be a nasty grade of aluminium if it's a replica). It'll be cheaper, easier and more professional to buy the individual tap (or ask a machinist, it won't take more than four to five minutes) and do the threading properly; otherwise some oil and several nice high-grade bolts should do the trick. Regarding whether or not your handguards will rotate without the handguard cap being fixed in place - well, it depends on the handguards. What are you fitting? Why won't you have a gas tube? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
northernairsofter Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 I love the Omega. Not enough Omegas! Not enough Omegas you say... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 Anyways, Magpul/Noveske Limited Edition SPR. Real 11" Noveske/SWS Handguard and all that good stuff. So much attention to detail - I love it. I really, really like the handstop/VFG combo and I intend to lift that for one of my own build, if you don't mine? Just as soon as I can source a KAC handstop, anyway. Very difficult to get hold of in the UK. Not enough Omegas you say... Heh heh heh! Nice Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 The issue is what kind of barrel nut is on the TM. If it's older style it might not be real-steel type. R-s style has the sprocket-like teeth all the way round. Once the back end of the handguard engages with them, and is held in place by the delta ring, there should be no rotation. The biggest function of the handguard cap at the front is to provide horizontal tension--achieved by getting the gas block in just the right spot for the length of the handguards you're using. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Philbucknall Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 My little cerakoted M4's with a little light reading in the background! 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GhostWolf Posted April 9, 2013 Report Share Posted April 9, 2013 (edited) My little cerakoted M4's with a little light reading in the background! That paint job is a thing of beauty... Edited April 9, 2013 by GhostWolf 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 (edited) Like the others have said, find a nice machine screw that's a close fit in terms of size, and screw it into the gasblock (which should be a nasty grade of aluminium if it's a replica). It'll be cheaper, easier and more professional to buy the individual tap (or ask a machinist, it won't take more than four to five minutes) and do the threading properly; otherwise some oil and several nice high-grade bolts should do the trick. Regarding whether or not your handguards will rotate without the handguard cap being fixed in place - well, it depends on the handguards. What are you fitting? Why won't you have a gas tube? The upper is a TM stock one. it doesnt have a spot for a gas tube to go into. Thanks for the help, probably getting a LP gas block and then finding a screw that will fit. EDIT: Fitting PTS handguards,. Edited April 10, 2013 by hawaiianjuggernaut Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 It doesn't have a gas port in the upper? If that's the only reason (instead of "I want to put batteries in my handguard, so there's no space"), then I'd suggest just drilling one. My SOPMOD didn't have one either and I had my tech drill a hole for one (really I should have done it myself - I've got a drill press and he doesn't, so it would have been much easier for me to do it). It's MUCH easier than anything else, by far more realistic, and it's really very easy. Ideally you need a drill press, but some clamps and handheld Dremel or drill should do the trick. If you're gonna just put a screw in, a tap will make it much easier but I reckon most airsoft metal is so soft you should be able to use two or three screws to cut a thread. Bear in mind you'll need a decent vise or clamp to secure the piece while you're torquing on it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
emp3ror86 Posted April 10, 2013 Report Share Posted April 10, 2013 My little cerakoted M4's with a little light reading in the background! Really nice guns, dear sir! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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