Jump to content

AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread


Recommended Posts

That's a very good point, but the Troy Alpha can be choosy with different brands of barrel nut. I've never encountered a problem with the Omega.

 

Edit: almost forgot - also the RS Alpha sometimes need to be modded at the bottom lower edge, nearest the receiver, if you're interested in shot gunning your gat. This is all initial install stuff though. Once it's on, the Alpha really is a breeze to remove.

 

The Madbull Troy extremes come with a mounting nut.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 7.2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

SLR 8" SBR build done. Just waiting for a few accessories (sling end plate, AAC Blast Shield, Cloud Defensive LCS, and an actual working ScoutLight head) and repairing my BTC Spectre, but otherwise al

Hey all! I kind of stumbled upon this thread by accident while searching for M16A2 receiver markings on google and saw one of Catgut's amazing VT's. Which brought me here I have been working on

One of my latest build, a real Colt M16A1 converted for GBBR on the WA system. Stripped upper, barrel and BCG was changed to Viper Tech du to my local laws. Also a video of how it was made:

Posted Images

Yes, the TRX does - but that necessitates removing the original barrel nut.

 

The Alpha, like the Omega, utilises the OEM barrel nut.

 

Not sure you can buy the TRX anymore, in the RS. The Alpha replaced it.

 

Edit: here's the Alpha install...

 

http://www.systema-ptw.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=10546

Edited by The Reptile House
Link to post
Share on other sites

 Noob question for the more experienced external builders out there...

 

I got me a TM m4 (stock barrel nut, ring and upper...)

Anyway the front handguard cap thing went FUBAR and the handguard could rotate 360 degrees as much as it wanted. I took the font sight post assembly off, any I now want to throw on a magpul handguard. Will a low profile gas block do?

 

IMG_20130408_093441_604_zps0db1c328.jpg

 

Want it to look something like this: 

 

magpul-moe-handguard-71.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

It's just a RS mag just clicked in to a WOC I'm afraid.  Would like to know the answer to that same question myself because the Lancers have grown on me a lot.

Awww... silly me. I didn't notice it's GBB at all...

Edited by MRF
Link to post
Share on other sites

Josh - Long as there's enough material to the rear face of the gas block to keep the handguard cap in place, no worries.  Just make sure you get one the same length as the standard A-frame.  I've installed MOE handguards on a 12" barrel using just a G&P VLTOR low-pro block to hold it all in.
 
This for example would work.  Madbull also make one that looks just like the one you've pictured.

 

Awww... silly me. I didn't noticed it's GBB at all...

 

Well there's no way of telling from the left side of the rifle really, so I'm sure we'll all forgive you.

Just this once mind.

Edited by CKinnerley
Link to post
Share on other sites

 Noob question for the more experienced external builders out there...

 

I got me a TM m4 (stock barrel nut, ring and upper...)

Anyway the front handguard cap thing went FUBAR and the handguard could rotate 360 degrees as much as it wanted. I took the font sight post assembly off, any I now want to throw on a magpul handguard. Will a low profile gas block do?

 

Hi. I might not be understanding your problem, but it's not the front cap that keeps the handguard from rotating 360 degrees. Your barrel nut might actually be loose as it usually keeps handguards from fully rotating (in airsoft M4's, once you remove the gas tube, you can actually twist off the barrel nut by turning the handguard hard enough); so if you put on the magpul handguard, it'll rotate as well.

 

Again, I'm probably not understanding your problem.

Edited by BaBaBooey
Link to post
Share on other sites

Aye okay. Thanks for the help guys.

 

Barrel nut is fine. The hand guard cap separated from the sight post. 

IMG_20130408_145108_566_zps2774766b.jpg

 

 

I assume the gas block has a pin thing that goes through the little hole on the handguard cap to keep it in place?

 

IMG_20130408_150513_917_zps19990abe.jpg

 

Pardon the nasty garage carpet :P

I should really vacuum it out :o

 

-Hawaiian

Link to post
Share on other sites

keep on getting small bits now, snagged another Prime receiver set so I'm trying to figure out where to go with that one, hopefully less magpul this time lol.

 

Anyways, Magpul/Noveske Limited Edition SPR. Real 11" Noveske/SWS Handguard and all that good stuff.

 

jTujvGhj0mpg7.JPG

 

jvtrmzi9A1c7L.jpg

 

jbfjA7vyGrKwwP.jpg

 

 

jFcL43iDPoIct.jpg

 

jbzZS6lYgsvQln.jpg

 

jblxE9zAmHz5Om.jpg

 

j0mwB2tFcuDAC.jpg

Edited by kagami
  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites

And if i dont have a gas tube?

 

Like the others have said, find a nice machine screw that's a close fit in terms of size, and screw it into the gasblock (which should be a nasty grade of aluminium if it's a replica). It'll be cheaper, easier and more professional to buy the individual tap (or ask a machinist, it won't take more than four to five minutes) and do the threading properly; otherwise some oil and several nice high-grade bolts should do the trick. Regarding whether or not your handguards will rotate without the handguard cap being fixed in place - well, it depends on the handguards. What are you fitting?

 

Why won't you have a gas tube?

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyways, Magpul/Noveske Limited Edition SPR. Real 11" Noveske/SWS Handguard and all that good stuff.

So much attention to detail - I love it.

 

I really, really like the handstop/VFG combo and I intend to lift that for one of my own build, if you don't mine? ;)

 

Just as soon as I can source a KAC handstop, anyway. Very difficult to get hold of in the UK.

 

Not enough Omegas you say...

Heh heh heh! Nice :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

The issue is what kind of barrel nut is on the TM.  If it's older style it might not be real-steel type.  R-s style has the sprocket-like teeth all the way round.  Once the back end of the handguard engages with them, and is held in place by the delta ring, there should be no rotation.  The biggest function of the handguard cap at the front is to provide horizontal tension--achieved by getting the gas block in just the right spot for the length of the handguards you're using.

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

Like the others have said, find a nice machine screw that's a close fit in terms of size, and screw it into the gasblock (which should be a nasty grade of aluminium if it's a replica). It'll be cheaper, easier and more professional to buy the individual tap (or ask a machinist, it won't take more than four to five minutes) and do the threading properly; otherwise some oil and several nice high-grade bolts should do the trick. Regarding whether or not your handguards will rotate without the handguard cap being fixed in place - well, it depends on the handguards. What are you fitting?

 

Why won't you have a gas tube?

 

The upper is a TM stock one. it doesnt have a spot for a gas tube to go into. 

Thanks for the help, probably getting a LP gas block and then finding a screw that will fit. 

 

EDIT: Fitting PTS handguards,.

Edited by hawaiianjuggernaut
Link to post
Share on other sites

It doesn't have a gas port in the upper? If that's the only reason (instead of "I want to put batteries in my handguard, so there's no space"), then I'd suggest just drilling one. My SOPMOD didn't have one either and I had my tech drill a hole for one (really I should have done it myself - I've got a drill press and he doesn't, so it would have been much easier for me to do it). It's MUCH easier than anything else, by far more realistic, and it's really very easy. Ideally you need a drill press, but some clamps and handheld Dremel or drill should do the trick. If you're gonna just put a screw in, a tap will make it much easier but I reckon most airsoft metal is so soft you should be able to use two or three screws to cut a thread. Bear in mind you'll need a decent vise or clamp to secure the piece while you're torquing on it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.