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AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread


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SLR 8" SBR build done. Just waiting for a few accessories (sling end plate, AAC Blast Shield, Cloud Defensive LCS, and an actual working ScoutLight head) and repairing my BTC Spectre, but otherwise al

Hey all! I kind of stumbled upon this thread by accident while searching for M16A2 receiver markings on google and saw one of Catgut's amazing VT's. Which brought me here I have been working on

One of my latest build, a real Colt M16A1 converted for GBBR on the WA system. Stripped upper, barrel and BCG was changed to Viper Tech du to my local laws. Also a video of how it was made:

Posted Images

 

Oh? How so?

Indeed, I am intrigued???  I wanted to convert my Recce into a MK18 and was advised that the ris etc was a pig to get off so i just bought a new upper, barrel and the correct RIS and built a MK18 out of the recce lower and the new upper (its quite good as I can still swap back to the recce upper if required), I didn't notice any difference between the sopmod and the recce?

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Whilst I haven't looked too much into detail, the Dytac barrel's fit perfectly well on a SOPMOD upper and is dead center as Airsoft standards go.

If you install same barrel onto a RECCE upper, it slants to the right by about 7.5mm.

 

It could just be the URX4 RIS, I definitely need to try other rails on the RECCE, was thinking a Madbull FDE Troy.

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Ah thats weird as I bought a normal sopmod upper for my Mk18 conversion and my Dytac barrel has a bit of a wobble this bit http://eagle6.co.uk/shop/catalog/product/view/id/630/s/tokyo-marui-outer-barrel-support/ was built into the barrel already ( I bought the expensive cnc'd one as I thought i'd need it, I guiuess I have a spare now !) it need some form of shim under that part or maybe a bit of the barrel at the base chopping off ? lord knows???

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So many nice recoils... hopefully once I've given my 3 some implants and face lifting they'll be up to a similar sort of standard.

 

For now, here's my SR as it currently stands.  Cannot decide for the life of me if I should go to a black grip/stock, I'm leaning towards yes but I'm just not 100%.

 

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Looking back I really should've gotten a picture over the other side of the gun, this is what happens when you shoot outside and it's cold.  Rush things.

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That's a nice clean gun. Black might look pretty nice. If not I'd at least go darker, rather than lighter, on the tan.

One thing I don't understand: why the pressure switch on the light? It's mounted in an awkward position that doesn't seem to offer any advantages over the far simpler solution of just mounting the light on the left side with a thumbcap switch. I've gone back to this on my guns because it seems just as fast with a lot less junk hanging off my rifle. You can see it on my latest AK in the AK thread.

Maybe there's some fancy weird new shooting stance I don't know about where your fingers are curled over the top of the barrel in a way that makes sense, I dunno. Genuinely curious.

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That's a nice clean gun. Black might look pretty nice. If not I'd at least go darker, rather than lighter, on the tan.

 

One thing I don't understand: why the pressure switch on the light? It's mounted in an awkward position that doesn't seem to offer any advantages over the far simpler solution of just mounting the light on the left side with a thumbcap switch. I've gone back to this on my guns because it seems just as fast with a lot less junk hanging off my rifle. You can see it on my latest AK in the AK thread.

 

Maybe there's some fancy weird new shooting stance I don't know about where your fingers are curled over the top of the barrel in a way that makes sense, I dunno. Genuinely curious.

 

Yeah @Katotaka nailed it.  Kind of surprised you've not seen it to be honest, I'm far from the first person to use that setup.  When you use thumb-over-bore (as I always do for shooting and airsoft) that configuration gives you easy access to the switch from whichever side you're shooting, the thumb of the forward hand is always resting on the tape so you just press in and you've got light.  The 11 o/clock mount + thumb cap is obviously popular these days because you can just hit it easily with a fairly conventional grip, but it's not as easy to get to it when you're shooting from the other shoulder and my gun spends its' time fairly evenly split between shooting arms when I skirmish.

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Yeah @Katotaka nailed it.  Kind of surprised you've not seen it to be honest, I'm far from the first person to use that setup.  When you use thumb-over-bore (as I always do for shooting and airsoft) that configuration gives you easy access to the switch from whichever side you're shooting, the thumb of the forward hand is always resting on the tape so you just press in and you've got light.  The 11 o/clock mount + thumb cap is obviously popular these days because you can just hit it easily with a fairly conventional grip, but it's not as easy to get to it when you're shooting from the other shoulder and my gun spends its' time fairly evenly split between shooting arms when I skirmish.

 

I have seen it before, just never had the chance to comment with the person who had set it up that way.

 

Anyway, makes sense... I just really prefer as few possible snag points as possible after a not-cool incident of a tree branch trying to take off with parts of my gun, and the pressure switch spending the next several hours flopping merrily in the breeze like a sad little johnson on a St. Bart's beach.

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I previously had my MRP set up so the push-switch for the light sat right on the tip of my thumb just in front of a Gaspedal; It was absolutely perfect for my usual left-hand operation, but I found when I played CQB I couldn't get to the light on a right-handed corner, which was a big PITA. I've since chucked the switch on the top rail and I can now get to it with either hand, so it definitely works better for me personally. 

 

Anyhow, I've switched photo-service in an effort to see if I can get some nicer pictures up, or any at all for that matter.

 

All that's left to do now is a different muzzle device as I got bored of the AAC 51T, and find someone who knows how to witchcraft up a 3D modelling thing to get a copy of the MRP Piston block made up so I can change it over to the piston version.

 

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Edited by hwagan
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I've not painted an AEG since Bush was president, so I felt slightly nervous doing this and moreso posting.  I think I overdid it with the pattern but made the mistake of covering up some shiny areas on the torch that I plan to fix with my airbrush shortly.  Just needs the foregrip and it'll be ready to go.  I'm using the elastic bands as a temporary measure but if someone could make a recommendation on how to hold the aimpoint cover back I'd appreciate it.

 

G&P M4

 

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Here's my PTS RM4 Scout awesome rifle and the kick is fantastic. It's an AEG but it doesn't shoot like it! I've got an 11" Noveske NSR rail to put on it just need to sort out the wiring. Was hoping to put a Midwest Industries SS Series Gen 2 rail on it but I just cant see how I'll get the 3 cell 11.1v Lipo pack inside there! 

 

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High Speed?

 

It's lay on his carpet split in half!

Nope that's not mine, mine is the post above on stone slabs outside..

 

And thanks Sigma, I really like the carry handle on it, I think that's what gives it the classic look. I had a clone Trijicon SRS on there but in this British weather it just keeps fogging up so I went back to standard irons! Tried to keep this one minimal compared to all my other AR15 variants. Only adjustment is the MOE rail with Scout light, Crusader Surefire muzzle break and an ACS-L to replace the MOE stock. :)

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Edited by DeltaZero
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