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AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread


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SLR 8" SBR build done. Just waiting for a few accessories (sling end plate, AAC Blast Shield, Cloud Defensive LCS, and an actual working ScoutLight head) and repairing my BTC Spectre, but otherwise al

One of my latest build, a real Colt M16A1 converted for GBBR on the WA system. Stripped upper, barrel and BCG was changed to Viper Tech du to my local laws. Also a video of how it was made:

Hey all! I kind of stumbled upon this thread by accident while searching for M16A2 receiver markings on google and saw one of Catgut's amazing VT's. Which brought me here I have been working on

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It definitely looks nice; Just out of curiosity, does it feature a bolt lock function? The fake bolt looks very similar to the G&P ones, and after seeing a bunch of Dytac gear on G&P's own website I've always wondered if they were linked somehow.

The DYTac guns are more like the G&P guns than than most other manufacturer guns. There's no bolt lock function but the charging handle does pull back the false bolt plate and there's enough friction there that it'll stay in place till you're done with it. I do like the hop up setup on the DYTac guns a little more though. They come with H-nubs by default and have very decent accuracy.

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The DYTac guns are more like the G&P guns than than most other manufacturer guns. There's no bolt lock function but the charging handle does pull back the false bolt plate and there's enough friction there that it'll stay in place till you're done with it. I do like the hop up setup on the DYTac guns a little more though. They come with H-nubs by default and have very decent accuracy.

 

It wouldn't surprise me if G&P had at least something to do with the creation of the Dytacs, maybe providing the basic parts or the internals or something. Good to hear they come with H nubs though, it's a shame G&P won't get with the times and do the same thing. For such an easy and simple internal change that'd cost manufacturers essentially nothing, an H-nub does an awful lot for accuracy. 

 

On another note, I figured you might be the person to ask - Any ideas if the KWA LM4's barrel nut matches the profile of an R/S barrel nut when it comes to the teeth? I'm ordering a Samson 9" Evo rail tomorrow, and I'm wondering if I'll need a new barrel nut for it..

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It wouldn't surprise me if G&P had at least something to do with the creation of the Dytacs, maybe providing the basic parts or the internals or something.

I know the owner of DYTac personally. At one point DYTac had approached G&P for parts etc, but the G&P wholesale price point was so high that DYTac had to make there own parts mostly from Chinese factories to their own specs. I do know that G&P have helped DYTac with some polymer products including DYTac's new Midcaps which are similar to Troy's mags (but I like DYTac's style a little better personally). Since making their own guns, the components are mostly their own, though the designs are mostly derived from replicating what others have done. The only part I'm not clear on are the Gearboxes.

 

 

On another note, I figured you might be the person to ask - Any ideas if the KWA LM4's barrel nut matches the profile of an R/S barrel nut when it comes to the teeth? I'm ordering a Samson 9" Evo rail tomorrow, and I'm wondering if I'll need a new barrel nut for it..

 

KWA LM4 has an airsoft spec'ed barrel nut thread. So if you plan to use a RS rail on it, if you can't reuse the LM4 barrel nut as a proprietary barrel nut is necessary ... you can either try and force the new barrel nut onto the thread or recut the thread. Forcing the RS spec'ed barrel nut on is definitely doable, however, you run the risk of not getting the barrel nut on perfectly straight and end up with a 1 to 2° tilt on the rail (which I have seen). That's why I generally always recommend recutting the threads. If you were in the US, I'd do it for you since I do it so often. I think in the UK, CKinnerley has the necessary tools. You can try asking him.

 

 

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On another note, I figured you might be the person to ask - Any ideas if the KWA LM4's barrel nut matches the profile of an R/S barrel nut when it comes to the teeth? I'm ordering a Samson 9" Evo rail tomorrow, and I'm wondering if I'll need a new barrel nut for it..

 

Just a side note, but most of us in PTW world who have owned Samson Evos have had the bottom rear edge of the rail milled to allow for clearance when opening the gun. I'd post a pic, but I sold my 9" Evo last year.

 

Edit:

 

...just found this. You can just about see where the rail has been trimmed, aft of the pinch bolts. Just depends on the pattern of your front takedown pin hole whether this is required.

 

068164e5-c2ed-48ab-ba9f-c2d251acada0_zps

 

It's an awesome rail, BTW. Still one of my favourites.

Edited by The Reptile House
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I know the owner of DYTac personally. At one point DYTac had approached G&P for parts etc, but the G&P wholesale price point was so high that DYTac had to make there own parts mostly from Chinese factories to their own specs. I do know that G&P have helped DYTac with some polymer products including DYTac's new Midcaps which are similar to Troy's mags (but I like DYTac's style a little better personally). Since making their own guns, the components are mostly their own, though the designs are mostly derived from replicating what others have done. The only part I'm not clear on are the Gearboxes.

 

 

 

KWA LM4 has an airsoft spec'ed barrel nut thread. So if you plan to use a RS rail on it, if you can't reuse the LM4 barrel nut as a proprietary barrel nut is necessary ... you can either try and force the new barrel nut onto the thread or recut the thread. Forcing the RS spec'ed barrel nut on is definitely doable, however, you run the risk of not getting the barrel nut on perfectly straight and end up with a 1 to 2° tilt on the rail (which I have seen). That's why I generally always recommend recutting the threads. If you were in the US, I'd do it for you since I do it so often. I think in the UK, CKinnerley has the necessary tools. You can try asking him.

 

 

 

Ahh, that makes sense. I figured they'd had at least some association in the past.

 

As for the barrel nut, I was wondering more if you'd ever fitted an R/S rail to an LM4 which utilises the stock design barrel nut - The Samson rail clamps onto a standard AR nut, but I'm not certain if the teeth and size of the barrel nut will match up to the real one to allow the rail to clamp on. Worst case scenario, I'll get myself an R/S barrel nut and fit that to the KWA Receiver, but it'd be nice if the rail would drop straight onto the stock one. 

 

Just a side note, but most of us in PTW world who have owned Samson Evos have had the bottom rear edge of the rail milled to allow for clearance when opening the gun. I'd post a pic, but I sold my 9" Evo last year.

 

Edit:

 

...just found this. You can just about see where the rail has been trimmed, aft of the pinch bolts. Just depends on the pattern of your front takedown pin hole whether this is required.

 

 

It's an awesome rail, BTW. Still one of my favourites.

 

I've seen nothing but positive reviews on the rail, one of the reasons I went for it - I also really like the look of it. A shame you hadn't decided to sell it 2 weeks ago, I'd have snapped it straight up! 

 

I've also seen people discussing the lack of ability to shotgun the receivers with the Samson rail, but I'm not sure I will - Whenever I clean my LM4 I just break down both halves of the receiver entirely with both pins, although I can see it might be handy if I need to split the gun in the field. If it becomes annoying I may well grind it down, but I think for now I'll probably leave it as is.

 

Cheers for the advice guys!

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