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AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread

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I can confirm this. It can hold BOTH a 7.4 buffer lipo, AND a square 7.4 lipo at the same time. I suppose if you want a fett, it depends on its size. Only problem I have encountered, is that when the compartment is closed, you can not get your wires down to the lower section, as it is completely close off from the buffer section. It could probably be modified to do so, but I have neither the tools, or the knowledge to do so.


Anything else you want to know about it?

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SLR 8" SBR build done. Just waiting for a few accessories (sling end plate, AAC Blast Shield, Cloud Defensive LCS, and an actual working ScoutLight head) and repairing my BTC Spectre, but otherwise al

One of my latest build, a real Colt M16A1 converted for GBBR on the WA system. Stripped upper, barrel and BCG was changed to Viper Tech du to my local laws. Also a video of how it was made:

This took too long... a GHK based Haley Strategic x BCM Jack Carbine   RA-Tech forged receiver (Raw finish, custom BCM marking) RA-Tech CNC steel bolt Dytac Geissele SMR MK1 BCM Marking Troy styl

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Teasers, this is still a work in progress:







The most work it needs is in the magwell, I need to make space for a AEG magazine as the GBBR mag is a bit smaller.

Pistol grip probably will be changed to ergo grip and front set may get Alpha rail 15" someday.


For optics, for now it'll be used with a red dot but it will get a appropriate scope later.


E: bigger pics: http://imageshack.us/f/717/dsc0653j.jpg/


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mmmm, UBR :wub:


So I have a question; do VFC type bodies have the stock screw into the lower receiver instead of the gearbox? I just saw this:



I know its a Echo1 body but they say its made specifically for a VFC M4.



Looking at it, there is a nut in the back that the stock screws into. Does the stock also screw into the gearbox? It seems to me that if the stock screw is supposed to go into the body screw and the gearbox at the same time, that would be a good way to strip the screw if the nuts dont line up properly.


I have a ProWin gearbox so being able to just screw into the body instead of the gearbox would help me out immensely when taking the body apart and swapping uppers; I would be able to leave the stock connected to the body.



However, just screwing into the body seems like a great way to snap the body in the back with any sort of torque or bending pressure/force.


Thanks for the help!

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Oh ok, good to know. I'm thinking of modding my current body to secure the stock to just the body but I don't trust the strength of the rear of the body to take that kind of abuse and I'd rather not risk it.


DFM56, how long have you had it? Do you know what material the body is made of? And compared to other M4 bodies, is the VFC more reinforced at the back?



Sorry for the twenty questions, pictures will be forthcoming to make up for it :P

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I've had it for 6 months or so, I think. I only started using it heavily last month, but it's held up fine.

I can't really compare it with other m4 bodies since I don't have much experience with them. The receiver feels like aluminum, not zinc or pot metal. I don't have any problem trusting this stock attachment method on this receiver, seems like a much better way to do it than going through the spring guide. The buffer tube attachment point on my receiver is much longer than the one on that E1 receiver you posted, probably about 2" long, and I'm pretty sure the entire length is solid and threaded.

I've never heard of one of the VFC SR lowers cracking and if it was a problem I bet that people would be complaining given the cost of the guns.


If I take it apart again soon I'll try to get some pictures for you.

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Ok great, I would really appreciate that!


I have two ProWin gearboxes and so my plan is to build two guns each with one upper at 16" or 18" for woodland games and a second upper at ~10.5" for indoor CQB games. the sandblasted upper and URX I posted earlier was an alternate upper for my second rifle. So I will have 4 upper combinations between two lowers.



Here is where I am so far in my project:







For the M4:

Need to get a suppressor to hide the longer barrel

I am probably going to swap the TD rail panels to the CQBr and put KAC panels on this one

Need to repaint the body to look uniform


For the CQBr:

Need to get a proper length black outer barrel

I was only able to find a black 600m front sight as opposed to the tan 300m (not willing to pay $50-$60 for an airsoft front sight :rolleyes: )

TD panels will most likely go to this so that is sorted, but I need to find a TD vertical grip

I think I will probably be using a T1 sight so that is sorted as well



Unfortunately for me, this ends up being I believe my 10th project that I am "currently" working on :nosleep:




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My VFC MK18 uses the same attachment method as my VFC SR635 as far as the buffer tube goes. Screws into the lower receiver itself and doesn't go anywhere near the gearbox. In fact, VFC gearboxes have a flat-head screw in the back of the gearbox to keep the spring guide aligned.


I thought I would like the T-1 more than I do. I have one of the XPS OPMOD replicas coming in for it tomorrow instead.





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The newer VFC ARs have the buffer tube screwing into the receiver as opposed to the spring guide of the gearbox. This enables you to remove the gearbox without removing the buffer tube (provided that you have detachable wiring). I believe the older VFC 416s did not have this feature (mine does not), but all my Avalon/VFC AR receivers have this.

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PX Airsoft has the "opmod" version, too. I bought the black one with side buttons; it's not as bright in sunlight as my other fake Eotechs and the buttons are prone to unintentional setting changes at the lightest brush, but it's still OK for the price.

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BTW it's quite interesting. They can build a really well reproduced Aimpoint clones, and at the same time all Eo clones are retarded in detail...

Is this really THAT harder to descently bend a piece of aluminum and do some appropriate holes, where they should be ? :D

I simply don't get it...

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