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AR15 Variants and Derivitives Picture Thread


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Curious about these comments regarding the T-1 lacking co-witness ... you guys know you can get different mounts that place the T-1 at different heights right? There are mounts out there that will place the optic directly at the pic rail, at H&K cowitness, absolute cowitness, and lower 1/3 cowitness.

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In-Progress Block 1.5 build for PJ impression. May go Mk18 Mod0 on this biotch.

 

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:) G&P RIS is fantastic. Only downside is the part of the lower receiver that extends into the buffer tube is the long-type, and therefore my Lipo tubes won't fit on it, so I'm stuck using a PEQ15 for the time being.

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That's a pretty easy fix regarding the lower receiver extension. Get yourself an AEG buffer tube sized for stock tube lipos. G&P, KA, Madbull all make one. Measure the depth that the inner mounting would sit and add to that the thickness of the receiver end plate/ sling plate. That length is approximately the length that your lower receiver's buffer tube extension should be. Using a dremel or hack saw, cut the buffer tube extension just a few millimeters (3-4mm) short of that measurement. You may or may not have to file the bottom of the receiver extension to accommodate the wires, but it's pretty obvious once you try to fit everything together.

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I never thought of that fix. I have a Magpul body which has the shorter extension; I've mounted this tube on it before. I assume I could measure that length and just cut the longer one down to the same size?

 

Yep. Chop the extension to the same length, and make some space for the wiring by sanding the bottom of the extension flat enough for the wires to fit through. Might also need to make a gap in the receiver end plate to save pinching them when you tighten the stock.

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Ok thanks.

 

I asked because I can't fit a front sight (at least the troy ones) with the flashlight at 45°.

 

Even with mine it is a very close fit. The clearance is definitely less than 0.2 mm between the sight and the light, you can fit a sheet of printer paper in the gap, nothing more.

 

That's good for lefties like me since that puts the light in a place easily activated by your thumb, but it's somewhat awkward for right hand. I guess top mounted SR07 is still the most ambi choice.

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Yep. Chop the extension to the same length, and make some space for the wiring by sanding the bottom of the extension flat enough for the wires to fit through. Might also need to make a gap in the receiver end plate to save pinching them when you tighten the stock.

 

I already sanded it a bit to prevent that. The end plate and receiver have a small enough gap; I was able to fit the buffer tube on fine, and double checked for crimping/wire damage and it passed. I just quit at trying to figure out why the buffer tube wouldn't quit sliding! I'll chop it down tomorrow an let you all know.

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I already sanded it a bit to prevent that. The end plate and receiver have a small enough gap; I was able to fit the buffer tube on fine, and double checked for crimping/wire damage and it passed. I just quit at trying to figure out why the buffer tube wouldn't quit sliding! I'll chop it down tomorrow an let you all know.

 

If you manage to get it wrong, I will genuinely send you a cookie with the word 'Special' written in icing :P

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If you manage to get it wrong, I will genuinely send you a cookie with the word 'Special' written in icing :P

 

It should be fine! I assume there's no problems with structural integrity by chopping it down? And I assume all bodies with the longer extensions don't have grooved extensions to hold the wires? I can't be the first person with this problem!

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It'll be fine. Many guns with metal bodies and longer receiver extensions lack a bottom groove for stock wiring. Just cut it down to an approximately the correct length and test the fitting. If you tighten the screw down and the buffer tube still slides back and forth freely, it can be one of two (or both) things: you haven't cut the extension down enough, and/or the mounting screw is too long.

 

After cutting down the receiver extension to what should be the appropriate length, the next thing I do is measure the distance from the back face of the receiver to where the screw head should stop when everything is assembled. Then, without the endplate, without the buffer tube, simply screw the mounting screw into the back of the receiver. Does it screw in far enough based on you last measurement? If not, you'll have to cut the screw down as some OEM buffer tube screws are too long. Once you know the receiver extension and screw are the correct length, it should all come together solidly.

 

I've had to do this with every VFC AR15 I own as well as several G&P guns. It's very straightforward. Just make sure you account for the thickness of the endplate as well when you take your measurements. I forgot that one time and cut off more than I needed from the receiver extension, which still worked fine except I also cut the screw too short which wasn't good.

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Sounds good. I have both long and short version screws; again, the tube/hardware fit on my Magpul body, which has the shortened extension, so once I cut this new body down to size and use the same tube/hardware it should be cherry. I'm working and won't be able to do it today but you all have my thanks!

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I just have to ask - off spec dimension as always ?

So not only is the upper rail out of spec, but I discovered that the "airsoft" design prevents the installation of a gas tube. Wow. Beyond annoying. Looking for a VTAC 13" rail now. Madbull or RS. Preferably RS. :(

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Unfortunately in case of many different rail replicas, apart from out of spec issue MB is still the best in terms of finish and detail accuracy. Some types have no alternative for MB copies.

I had no choice and just drilled out the hole for gas tube in my FDE mk18.

BTW - MB's FDE anodizing could be slightly better - in artificial lighting, specially in the evening/night it looks like a bit red/violet. Didn't noticed anything like that on RS pictures, even if they were low quality.

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Unfortunately, with the MB VTAC rails (and I'm guessing same goes for the regular TRX rails), the entire length of the upper rail's inner cavity where the gas tube would normally reside ... isn't milled out like on a real one. On my MB Noveske rails, it's only the rear most section of the rail, and even then, it's only blocked by a pin. On the VTAC rails, you'd have to mill out the entire length of rail : FAIL.

 

The MB Daniel Defense FDE is really off compared to the real rail, but as you said, in many cases, there are no alternatives for some of these replica rails. Here's what a real MK18 rail looks like (my gun):

 

gallery_29472_1525_34403.jpg

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Unfortunately, with the MB VTAC rails (and I'm guessing same goes for the regular TRX rails), the entire length of the upper rail's inner cavity where the gas tube would normally reside ... isn't milled out like on a real one. On my MB Noveske rails, it's only the rear most section of the rail, and even then, it's only blocked by a pin. On the VTAC rails, you'd have to mill out the entire length of rail : FAIL.

 

All I can say is... Sweet Mother...

 

The MB Daniel Defense FDE is really off compared to the real rail, but as you said, in many cases, there are no alternatives for some of these replica rails.

 

I might be mistaken, but from what I've seen on some Asian airsoft forum it seems RS DD FDE is something between Madbull's (which is bit lighter) and VFC mk18 (bit darker).

Anyway it's not what airsofters outside US would like to see.

Edited by MRF
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