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TM VSR 10 Tunung Advice (PDI or Laylax)?


The Chrome Avenger

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you also need to pick a BB and weight and stick religiously to it. Unlike AEG's, where brand and ammo weight simply means a wee adjust of the hop, in a bolty, you need those tight groupings and some barrels will work horribly with certain hops and BB's etc. You could read for MONTHS on tuning VSR's to perfection :P

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You really don't need spares for a Zero trigger.

 

 

The only thing that ever goes on them is one of the internal springs, and this is easily replaced with a slightly modified tappet plate spring. The zero trigger itself operates on a "roller sear" so there is virtually no wear in it's use. :)

 

 

You also should take into account that a regular 45 degree sear setup will push your piston into the top of your cylinder, making it stiff to push the bolt back in, and prematurely wearing both the piston bushes and your cylinder. These are all eliminated by the Zero trigger as it holds the piston end at a 90 degree angle.

 

 

...And the safety is overrated. ;)

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Cheers for the advice guys,

 

I was concerned with the bolt push when the rifle was cocked as It did seem to get stiffer even when I upgraded the standard internals to 350fps. Would you recommend the zero trigger over the PDI version? Now i'm starting too worry I think Mr Credit may take a good hammering :huh: . (I may now have a set of new and hardly used PDI sears for sale). Am I right in thinking that the trigger guard needs modification for the zero trigger to fit ? As for the comment on bb weight I was thinking around the .36 mark and then heavier if it is windy ! As for bb makes I think it might be trial and error, I will admit though the Z1 bb's have seemed to be very good and so have the Degicon straights.

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oh dear :P

 

Z1 BB's are not very good, and I wouldn't dream of changing weights once you've finally nailed down your hop/barrel/bucking combo to perfection. Maruzen SGMs are top of the heap in quality, and work better in tighter barrels (they're on average on the smaller side of BB's) however they're the most consistent in size and uniformity. Green Devils aren't bad but I'd use then in a 6.05 barrel over a 6.01 but really, you just need to trial brands of BB's with your barrel/hop setup and see if you get any particular increase or decrease in grouping per brand.

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Sorry guys another question,

 

Air brake modification Y or N ? I have never done it becuase I have read leaving it on gives more consistant shots which is what I would like. Also I imagine I causes the piston not to slam into the cylinder head so aggresively?

 

Now I can go and find the cheapest trigger for the next few hours.:huh:

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I'd say go Laylax Zero over PDI V-Trigger.

 

There is just something about the Laylax one that strikes me as better. :)

 

The bolt push will only get worse the higher your FPS goes.

 

 

I have left my air brake alone. I built my VSR to be as quiet as possible at my site's FPS limit though. (Which is also why it now weighs a ton, with the dead space in the stock full of car body filler. ;) )

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Yes I agree with you lightbulb now I have the sears I may aswell stick with them for a while and save up some cash. I think the price for the zero trigger is quiet expensive, but it will be a purchase of mine in the next few months. I have just purchased a Magpul Masada so I need to splash the cash on P mags for that and they are NOT cheap. As of now I'm gonna purchase Laylax tb barrel, And full teflon cylinder set and internals and see how I get on !

 

What weight bb would anyone recommend for a 500 fps G spec, As I was thinking around the .36 mark?

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Cheers guys,

 

I'm gonna go on a big spend then and get;

 

Laylax Teflon cylinder and cylinder head.I have damper pads

 

Laylax Red piston (for now),(Might hold out on this for a while)

 

Laylax Spring guide,

 

Laylax TB barrel 303mm and 2x spacers.

Not gonna get zero trigger yet, as I have only just fitted new PDI sears and a Daiki spring guide stopper.(little bit annoyed about this, should have purchased the zero trigger):angry:

 

 

Firefly HARD rubber fitted already.150 spring already owned.

 

I may well be selling the 1st and 2nd sears and spring guide stopper in the next few weeks as all of you have convinced me to get the zero trigger, What do you think is a fair price for these item as I can put the money towards the zero trigger.

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Just missed out on the last batch of noobies triggers!

 

I have bitten the bullet and ordered the zero trigger c/w piston from a HK retailer. I hope this turns out to be a good investment ? Along with all the other stuff i'm going to order in the next week I will now have 2 complete internal set ups for the rifle.

 

1x complete laylax 500fps upgraded setup.

 

 

1x complete stock setup at 350 fps (stock trigger and pdi sears) Upgraded spring. NO med needed for this setup ! rifle is super silent.

 

I will post upgraded results in a week or so once I come back from holiday and fit everything.

 

Is there a modification that needs to be done to fit the zero trigger ?

 

Is there any possible problems I may encounter when fitting all the new parts ?

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Well,as the title stated PDI or LAYLAX ? I have gone with the complete LAYLAX set up, I have just fitted a new laylax TB barrel and 6x barrel spacers, Ptfe tape mod around the end of the hop rubber and barrel. I am now just waiting for my new zero trigger, teflon cylinder, cylinder head and spring guide to turn up.:D I can't wait to fit all my new goodies. Now the next problem what scope?

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I was thinking about a 3-9 x40 m1 or m3 type scope, king arms do one that looks ok! I like the look of the leupold copy scopes just don't know if the copies are any good.

 

 

I have a Leupold copy; its OK. The magnification is 3.5-10x40. Clarity is not as good as a 3-9x40 simmons air rifle scope. The mil dot is again OK. The rangefinder parralax adjuster is of no real use. The best feature is the zeroable turrets. But even then they are not great.

 

I myself would recommend a cheap 3-9x40 that has the graduated "rangefinder reticule." The marks on the rangefinder go right to the bottom. This helps to make a decent rangecard. You learn which mark hits what distance if possible using a laser ranger. Then print the info out in small black text on a green background and cellotape it to your stock.

 

Then you can quickly, figure that a target or ambush point is a certain range and read off the hold over required, with no adjustments to scope or hop. The crosshair on mine is 40 yards and the bottom line of the reticule is 100 yards.

 

Here is one of those cheap scopes....

CLICK

 

OK it isn't as clear as a decent air rifle scope and doesn't look as pretty as a M1/M3 or MK4 clone.... but I think it is better value for money and more effective simply down to the reticule.

 

Good Hunting ;)

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Cheers Bushman, I had already thought about that scope due to the fact it was cheap and I also liked the reticle. What about the Deben hawke air rifle scopes? I have been looking at these and they seem ok. Looked at some Hawke scopes at the CLA game fair at the weekend and the lenses look good and very clear, Also the price is quiet good and I don't mind spending a little more to get better quality.

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