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First look at the H.K 3Px4 GBB

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Just recieved mine from landwarrior (plus a delicious drumstick :D ) and have to say it feels very good so far. No slide wobble, and a reasonable kick with good trigger respone. Emptied the mag which is more than i can say for my tm dw 4.3. Cant speak for accuracy, but im impressed so far.

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Just recieved mine from landwarrior (plus a delicious drumstick :D ) and have to say it feels very good so far. No slide wobble, and a reasonable kick with good trigger respone. Emptied the mag which is more than i can say for my tm dw 4.3. Cant speak for accuracy, but im impressed so far.

 

Just a heads up; don't try to compare the gas efficiency of "RS double stacked" GBB magazines with "RS single stacked" GBB magazines XD The 1911 mags are notorious for being unable to empty all the bbs unless you run HFC134a and use a stock marui gun. Actually with my old stock TM MEU I wasn't even able to empty the mag in Hong Kong's weather...had 2-3 bbs left in the gun.

 

Anyway, mind also writing about the quality of the externals of the gun too? I don't think a lot of people who've browsed this thread seem to have read any of the other posts and are concluding that the externals are ######. What's your view on the quality of the externals?

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Yeah i get what your saying, although i thought 1911 mags were double stacked, just have a teeny gas reserve. Quality wise i am mighty impressed by the externals of the gun. I would rate the plastic the same as ksc, having owned a ksc g23f. Not quite as nice feeling, but not enough difference to ever care.

 

The slide feels very high quality with low to no wiggle between the slide and rails. The metal piece that has been breaking on every gun just broke on mine, but im not worried just a small design flaw. It has fired every shot and locked back which has so far been a better experience than i ever had with my ksc glock and current tm 4.3. The issue being with the 4.3 that it tended to half cock the hammer sometimes which was a p.i.t.a.

 

Overall if i didnt know it was a clone i would never have thought it. The trades are clean and sharp. The whole gun just feels very tight, and hopefully will be reliable over the long run. That will be the true test.

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The issue being with the 4.3 that it tended to half cock the hammer sometimes which was a p.i.t.a.

 

Thanks for the external review XD

 

Anyway, regarding your 4.3, if it half-cocks the gun sometimes I would diagnose that the middle prong of the sear spring is pressing against the sear too much. Strip the MSH out of the hicapa and remove the sear spring (try not to get the hammer to drop when you remove the MSH and sear spring or else you'll need to remove the slide, grip safety and thumb safety to get everything back together!) and bend the middle prong 'backwards' so it applies less pressure to the internal mechanism of the gun if you get what I mean. You need to do this by trial and error so don't bend the middle prong too much; if you do the gun fires full auto until the mag is out of bbs if I remember correctly.

 

 

Overall if i didnt know it was a clone i would never have thought it. The trades are clean and sharp. The whole gun just feels very tight, and hopefully will be reliable over the long run. That will be the true test.

 

 

^ That is exactly what I feel about the gun, thanks for putting it concisely in a sentence :D

 

I'm still waiting on cash from my University's Student Union so I can get 18 of these PX4s for my society (and 1 extra mag for each gun). Once I have the PX4s at hand I can report back with a larger sample of the guns for it's durability and reliability test.

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Sorry I can't edit my old post; but I've had some misconceptions that I realised with my advice on the 4.3 hicapa above that I would like to clarify after a little more thought on the issue. It's completely off-topic from this thread but I hope you guys don't mind it since I don't like to leave wrong information on the threads ><;

 

Annnnyway. Lets assume we're considering a 1911 (which is some 90% similar to the 2011 mechanism and the stuff I write below will work for the hicapas too).

 

If we consider the sear spring with the front being the part that faces away from you when you look at the rear of the grip (same direction as the muzzle) and vice versa for the rear;

 

1. the left prong regulates the force pushing against the grip safety,

 

2. middle presses the sear in place to lock up the hammer when it's cocked or half cocked, and

 

3. the right prong regulates the force applied on the trigger and as such the sear disconnector.

 

From the issues you are having; I would believe that the issue is the sear disconnector is not resetting properly because if the middle prong is not pressed against the sear hard enough the gun should fire bursts or completely empty the mag on full auto with 1 trigger pull.

 

Anyway, with the right prong, try taking out the MSH by pushing the pin out of the grip and make sure you use a finger to hold the hammer against the rear of the slide. If the hammer drops you'll need to remove the thumb safety to remove the grip safety before you can do anything since if the hammer drops all the way down (therefore it is in the cocked position) you can't remove the sear spring because the hammer interferes with the grip safety being unable to be pulled upwards from the grip to access the sear spring. Doing it my way is the speedier way of fixing the sear spring (I tune my sear spring to the trigger weight I want this way since you don't need to remove the slide from the frame to remove the thumb safety!).

 

Once the sear spring is out bend the right prong that interacts with the sear disconnector forward (towards the muzzle if the sear spring was in the gun) to allow it to push more positively against the sear. The trigger stirrup on the gun should therefore also push against the sear disconnector more positively and that should fix your problem. Side effects of bending the sear spring forward is your trigger will be heavier.

 

I've had your problems before with my stock MEU kit (I think I had a TM lemon (should I feel lucky!? :P) since the gun didn't fire right after I bought it and shot 5 mags through it...) and I remember that my problem was with the sear disconnector not being able to freely move around the slide hole that it fits into. No matter what I did with the sear spring the gun still had the half cock issue, etc. I fixed it by buying the Airsoft Surgeon steel disconnector set and honestly I was naive back then when I could've just taken a needle file and file down the plastic frame to widen up the hole where the disconnector sits. If adjusting the sear spring doesn't work for you, try to get a small needle file and widen the disconnector 'hole' a bit by filing the side of the frame.

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Wow thanks for the information, ill have a go later and see if that helps any. Im sure that's the issue, because someone else a while ago mentioned it might be the sear, but never explained how to fix it. Thank you kindly :)

 

One thing ill mention as a very minor negative is that the hammer feels very loose when the gun is in safe. Has a lot of wiggle back and forth. When its cocked its rock solid. It may just be the design of the weapon, as unlike the 1911 when you put it into safe the hammer isnt resting against anything. I doubt it'll affect the performance anyway.

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Wow thanks for the information, ill have a go later and see if that helps any. Im sure that's the issue, because someone else a while ago mentioned it might be the sear, but never explained how to fix it. Thank you kindly :)

 

One thing ill mention as a very minor negative is that the hammer feels very loose when the gun is in safe. Has a lot of wiggle back and forth. When its cocked its rock solid. It may just be the design of the weapon, as unlike the 1911 when you put it into safe the hammer isnt resting against anything. I doubt it'll affect the performance anyway.

 

You're talking about the PX4 hammer right? I thought that was a manufacturing or design problem too but the TM PX4 is exactly like the TM; the hammer wobbles when it's not cocked; you can't blame the clone if the original have the same issue :D

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Just received one of these and I am impressed with the build quality so far.

Nice, crisp blowback.

Trigger feels a touch sloppy though.

 

Anyway, are they any recommended mods/upgrades for the PX4?

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Just received one of these and I am impressed with the build quality so far.

Nice, crisp blowback.

Trigger feels a touch sloppy though.

 

Anyway, are they any recommended mods/upgrades for the PX4?

 

So far that I can think of are the Nineball barrels and hop rubber. But personally I'll go with the TK Twist Barrel + nineball hop rubber (what I run in my 1911). Set the hop rubber near the full setting and shooting +0.25g gives you a pretty damn flat trajectory and you get a very nice effective range for outdoors. However the NB barrel and hop combo also works very well to outrange (for UK limits) AEGs on the original TM (can't see why the HK3P wont have the same effect though!); see the posts in the TM PX4 review :P

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Groovy, will give the nineballs a go as they seems to be a well recommended combo.

 

Anyways, not long ago something broke off the slide.

Its the same part mentioned earlier in this thread which has seen a revision to fix the problem.

Does not appear to affect operation, anything to worry about?

 

Also two other noticeable things.

The hammer wobbles quite a lot, is this normal?

The outer barrel also seems loose, I can push the outer a good 2mm back and forth with the slide forward and a little up and down.

I understand it needs to be loose so the operation doesnt jam but should it have the forward and backwards play?

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Groovy, will give the nineballs a go as they seems to be a well recommended combo.

 

Anyways, not long ago something broke off the slide.

Its the same part mentioned earlier in this thread which has seen a revision to fix the problem.

Does not appear to affect operation, anything to worry about?

 

Also two other noticeable things.

The hammer wobbles quite a lot, is this normal?

The outer barrel also seems loose, I can push the outer a good 2mm back and forth with the slide forward and a little up and down.

I understand it needs to be loose so the operation doesnt jam but should it have the forward and backwards play?

 

Seems like the broken part of the slide does nothing to the function of the gun as many here have testified.

 

Also I've answered the hammer question posted by david pithers 2 posts above the one where you asked for upgrade info....please read above :P

 

The loose barrel...well if it's like 2mm then I won't worry about it. Even my stock TM MEU had around 2mm of play when the slide is cocked and I fumble around with the barrel. It doesn't hinder the gun's function in any way.

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hi i ordered a MIC PX4 spare magazine and when it arrived it was missing the Gas Route Bucking does anyone know where to pick one up or is there any other Gas Route Bucking that would be compatible thanks.

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Is R-hop use-able on the px4?

 

HunterSeeker5's R-Hop mod? I thought it was only developed for AEG buckings, not the VSR type?

 

hi i ordered a MIC PX4 spare magazine and when it arrived it was missing the Gas Route Bucking does anyone know where to pick one up or is there any other Gas Route Bucking that would be compatible thanks.

 

The MIC ones are the ones in brown packaging right? Those are ######, I've heard reports that they leak OOTB and you cant even stuff a single bb into the mag. Sorry you wasted your money dude; but get a HK3P branded mag instead (which is the same as the one that comes with the gun. The packaging is black.

 

As for the gas route bucking I want to know too since I've been playing with the idea that if the gas route thingy is the same as the hicapa/p226 ones you can potentially fit the nineball purple ones to get an even better airseal.

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Is it worth getting TM mags over the cheaper HK3P mags at all?

 

Sorry dude, daily digests weren't coming into my gmail inbox for over a month, didn't see you post here.

 

The mags that my friends have don't have much of a problem so far other than leaking slightly at a game once, and it wasn't because the fill valve was loose. I think the o-rings used for the fill valve isn't too good. Still, the leak issue is the same as my WE M4 mags and I think if you just keep a bit of gas in the mags during storage you won't get the leak problems (the leakages were fixed after gaming the PX4 for a few rounds of CQB). The issue is really minor anyway and given the price of the mags I suggest you to get the HK3P mags instead of the TM ones if you don't have a lot of cash at hand.

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So, my gun had its first "real" problem occur. About a month ago, my the "chamber" part of my barrel snapped off while firing. I can post pictures later. Firing with the barrel broken is possible, but occasionally the slide gets jammed, as it hasno real way to push the barrel forwards. My temporary fix is to use the WE threaded barrel adapter, which has a diameter slightly larger than that of the slide's cut for the barrel, which allows the slide to pull the barrel forwards while cycling. I have put ~3k rounds through the gun, with no upgrades.

 

Has anyone heard any news about the threaded barrel? A while back I saw that some Asian company was going to release one as-per Inception. I just can't bring myself to spend $131 on a new slide and barrel.

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So, my gun had its first "real" problem occur. About a month ago, my the "chamber" part of my barrel snapped off while firing. I can post pictures later. Firing with the barrel broken is possible, but occasionally the slide gets jammed, as it hasno real way to push the barrel forwards. My temporary fix is to use the WE threaded barrel adapter, which has a diameter slightly larger than that of the slide's cut for the barrel, which allows the slide to pull the barrel forwards while cycling. I have put ~3k rounds through the gun, with no upgrades.

 

Has anyone heard any news about the threaded barrel? A while back I saw that some Asian company was going to release one as-per Inception. I just can't bring myself to spend $131 on a new slide and barrel.

 

I think a company called Detonator released one. You can find it on Tokyo Model Company. The barrel's threads are ON the barrel itself as opposed to a separate piece, and it comes with a thread protector.

 

The barrel's expensive though (any Detonator product is from what I can tell). Lemme search for you....

 

Here: http://www.tokyo-model.com.hk/ecshop/goods.php?id=8101

 

at 63 dollars I think it's about the same as the HK3P itself? A cheaper option might be to buy the HK3P slide set alone. Anyway your broken barrel problem's the first I've read about.

 

Also, the threads are +14mm. I guess it's to mimic a real threaded PX4 barrel. You'll have a more limited choice of silencers should you choose to use one.

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Has anyone heard any news about the threaded barrel? A while back I saw that some Asian company was going to release one as-per Inception. I just can't bring myself to spend $131 on a new slide and barrel.

I bought a silencer+adapter cheaply from Cobra Airsoft, IIRC US shops also have those in stock (look for "WE silencer adapter", it's 10mm to 14mm, should fit the PX4 and the Maruzen/ACM PPK as well).

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A cheaper option might be to buy the HK3P slide set alone. Anyway your broken barrel problem's the first I've read about.

I bought a silencer+adapter cheaply from Cobra Airsoft, IIRC US shops also have those in stock (look for "WE silencer adapter", it's 10mm to 14mm, should fit the PX4 and the Maruzen/ACM PPK as well).

 

Oops; didnt read that the slide set is USD 131.....

 

Mike, AsianDraggon doesn't want the silencer set, it's only because his barrel's broken so I suppose he want's something more 'custom' as a replacement to the original barrel the gun comes with.:P

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