bankz5152 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 One thing I must say is the CNC Nozzle Cylinder is a deffinate YES. As soon as I installed it the shot-shot consistancy went up by miles. Much much better especially since its only about £8.00. I also fixed the leaking issue in my magazines by adding an extra Oring to the middle Oring. Zero leaks on semi & full auto. Cool down is a bit of an issue. Though I have found my recoil spring to be a little weak. It doesnt allways force the bolt carrier fully forward, meaning the first shot is allways under powered. It also seems to be causing some jamming issues as the carrier doesnt seem to have the 'umph' to get the round into the chamber which causes a mis-fire and the a jam. After more rounds the PDI W-Hop seemed to actually cause more issues so it was removed and replaced with a modified guarder black (lip cut down slightly) which is much better. Since I have two bolts & have two nozzles so Im also going to see if a WE/RA-Tech NPAS can be fitted for further consitancy and fps control. Ive also found that full auto would be fantastic for CQB as it is not quite consistant and accurate so it has qiute a large spread. Good for spray and pray. One thing I have noticed though is the Fireing Pin & Firepin Housing is not that secure. On a WE there is zero play, it doesnt move any other direction apart from forward and backward. However the VFC moves side to side quite a bit at least 1mm on each side. Which I think could cause some inconsitancy as it would be hitting slightly different parts of the valve releasing slightly different amounts of pressure. Finally I think this would benifit from a 6.03 TB Barrel possibley a 6.01 which I will be testing this weekend. Sorry for all the posts I do love this MP5 and determined to make it A) Reliable Consistant C) More awsome than anyone elses. + it cost me £600.... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mirrage Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Your work will help us all. Keep it up! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Studie Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thank you for experimenting. I shall await your updates Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 No worries. I relish the opertunity, I love to experemnt until I find what works. Especially with VFC MP5 parts being on the cheaper side than most. A full bolt carrier & gubbins being $30.00. Trigger housing is a bit much though at $150 shipped but I dont see that breaking down before at least 7000 rounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mirrage Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 I really like it when people's work catches so high standards as I see here. You try different solutions and approaches and you don't give up. Btw.. It's silly but when I said the seller there are rumours about the gbb failing etc. he said "that was for the 1st gen.". I had to say there is no 2nd gen. but I wanted the gbb as hell...I have no failures so far but I haven't shoot more than 4 mags.That's why I am following this thread and set it to send e-mail reports on every new message. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Ok, It seems that 1000 rounds is the limit of the JB Weld before ware starts to occur, though still at a lower rate than the zinc carrier which shows how soft (but not weak) the VFC carrier really is... However that said I did use JB Kwik Weld - I'm getting some regular JB Weld this week which I know is stronger from past experience. So I will rebuild the peice using the tougher part I will also use a 30% hardener & 70% steel for an even tougher material, though will slow the full cure time to 48 hours... However with any luck this will up the strength and increase durabillity to somthing more like 4K rounds per maintenance period. After this if I still get the same results (less than 1K rounds per maintenance) or other damage to internal parts then I will remove all JB Weld and attempt the Aluminium Welding Rods (lumiweld etc..) which apparently solidly bonds to Aluminium & Pot Metal and according the GasGuns will last solidly up to 20K rounds in a WA M4... Im also working on the other ware from the Fire Pin Recoil Lever (black bar on the right) as in the future this will ware down badly causing a gun-stopping damage to the carrier so better get ahead. Will update as I progress! Should be able to get some pictures up shortly aswell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 One thing I must say is the CNC Nozzle Cylinder is a deffinate YES. As soon as I installed it the shot-shot consistancy went up by miles. Much much better especially since its only about £8.00. On Studie's recommendation, I tested an aluminum cylinder (also purchased a brass one, but haven't tested it yet). My chrono check before and after revealed no significant improvements in power or consistency on my MP5 (0.25g, 134A, magazines at room temperature approximately 72°F). The only other aftermarket parts I have installed is the Azimuth nozzle. In my opinion, it's not the material of the cylinder rather the quality of the piston cup or O-ring that helps improve the seal, resulting in improved shot-to-shot consistency. Although a smoother cylinder surface seems like it should help, on my gun it just doesn't make any significant difference (possible that my piston o-ring is damaged so I may wrap the piston in teflon to see if that helps). Don't replace your recoil spring. As things start to "break in", the cycle will naturally begin to smooth out. Mine actually came with two difference springs and I exclusively use the weaker one (I even filed down the buffer). A stiffer spring in the long run will slower the cycle down and make the gun less efficient. You can use a stronger propellant, but it will definitely put more stresses making it more prone to failure. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 6, 2012 Report Share Posted March 6, 2012 Thanks Booey. Thats exactly what I thought, does need breaking in... Out of interest where abouts did you file down the buffer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 13, 2012 Report Share Posted March 13, 2012 Just a little update on part - My MP5 is going strong. Shooting very well and consistancy is going up and up, the Guarder bucking is working a dream! Getting a solid 50ft range easy, accuracy more like 35ft but that I believe is due to bedding issues with the hop though when its working it seems pretty damn stable. Also found .25gs to be the best so far (out of .2gs,, 25gs, 28gs) Sanding the bolt with super high girt paper has deffinatley helped. The amount of ware has diminished (compared to unsanded). It also seems that ware on the bolt has capped. Its not wareing down anymore, at least not as quickly as before. Still need to try out the regular JB weld mod (hasnt arrived yet) if that fails Ill use the Lumi-Weld. Strangley enough im using the standard nozzle whitch has seen about 1000 rounds now and still going strong. None the less polycarb one on the way! Cant see any major ware on trigger pack either just the paint stripping a little bit. Either way if it fails Lumi-Weld will solve all problems!!! So far I am loving this MP5, really bloody good. The realism is just second to only the H&K MP5. Im considering getting the Aluminium Hop Unit. My guess (and hope) is that it will increase consistancy due to the solid one peice nature of it. Anyone have any experience with it? Josh Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mirrage Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 Very good news to read! Will you post a parts list when you finish? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 14, 2012 Report Share Posted March 14, 2012 I can do that now really im almost done. Parts installed thus far - Azimuth Polycarbonate Nozzle Crusader Cylinder VFC Bolt Carrier Reinforced - High ware areas sanded down with 1200 wet & dry then 2000 grit wet & dry - High impact areas reinforced with JB Weld/Lumi-Weld* Guarder Black Hop Rubber - The AEG Lip has been cut down to stop the nozzle from becoming stuck - Massivley increased consistency & accuracy. Second o-ring round middle o-ring on magazine release valves - Silicone Grease - Zero Leaks 20 fills 20 fires (so far) including full auto. Azimuth Reinforced Polycarbonate Bolt Stops To come - Aluminium One Peice Hop Unit 6.03mm TB Inner Barrel - Probably RA-Tech as they are cheap, high quality and fit pretty much all guns from AEGS - GBBRs. When/If the trigger pack peices ware down the damaged peices will be reinforced/repaired with Lumi-Weld *Still undergoing testing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted March 15, 2012 Report Share Posted March 15, 2012 (edited) I didnt see any info on this, maybe I missed it, But, Does anyone know how to get the existing cylinder out of the bolt carrier? Ive taken off the C clamp, and unscrewed the grub screw, For the life of me I can see anything else holding it in but it wont budge at all. Are they glued in? Oh, and for reference this is so I can replace it with a TSC aluminum nozzle. Edit: nevermind, i got it. it just required a lot more force then Im usually comfortable with using on airsoft parts. The cylinder fits in there really tight. Edited March 15, 2012 by Brigg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted March 17, 2012 Report Share Posted March 17, 2012 (edited) I have one more question for this if anyone knows. I am installing an aluminum hopup unit into this as well. Now, heres the issue Im running into. The original hopup has a notch to fit into the two slots in the inner barrel to hold it in place. The aluminum on has a C-clamp which holds it in place instead. The only problem is that this clamp doesnt seem to fit over the hopup rubber which is exposed in that section. Im using an extra stock hopup rubber which I ordered, might I need to cut the hopup rubber down a bit in order the fit the clamp on? Edited March 17, 2012 by Brigg Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Hmmm thats odd. Are you certain its all going in correctly? From what ive seen its like a standard AEG hop unit. You should not have to cut it. Are you sure that the hop rubber wasnt pushed up off the inner barrel? Oddly I tend to give my hop rubbers a little lick to help them slide in a little better! lol None the less please report back and say weather the Alu Hop unit improves consistancy/range/accuracy/overall performance. Aswell as if over time you notice any damage to the Bolt Head. Hope that is of some help. Josh. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 I will have to make that report the next time I try to install it. Since I was unable to figure out how to get the hopup chamber to fit correctly, and there were no available instructions of any kind available online, I simply reinstalled the original hopup chamber and reassembled the gun. A big waste of time. As far as I can tell, the aluminum chambers just dont line up with the locking notches in the barrel. as if you are expected to cut your own. As I am not willing to do that heavy a modification to my brand new gun, I would have to go ahead and say that the aluminum chambers are a waste of money, as they don't seem to have actually been designed correctly for the gun they are expected to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 18, 2012 Report Share Posted March 18, 2012 Post up a few pics of what you have. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
raito Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 I'm about to get one this weekend, can any of you recomend where to buy the replacement parts online? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
KMFDM Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Anyone gotten their hands on the SD3-version yet? Does the silencer do anything other than add weight to the gun? Also, haven't bothered reading every post so I may have missed it but how does the gun take a HK-slap? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 WGCShop & Ehobbyasia for parts. H&K Slap works fine, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Studie Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Bankz, can you post pictures of your welded bolt carrier? I am planning to do the same, does it stick on just fine? I am planning to buy the aluminum loading nozzle from FE. I still haven't figured out how to dismantle the magazines.... Can you give me any tips? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 22, 2012 Report Share Posted March 22, 2012 Havnt quite finished it yet, soon as i do ill post up. Wrap the mag in a sock, thrn hit it bloody hard a couple times with a hammer. Remove the retention pin, Push the valve in, i used a rubber mallet. To hit the top down after a couple times they are easy to strip. Let me know how that alu nozzle works out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 I am planning to buy the aluminum loading nozzle from FE. I still haven't figured out how to dismantle the magazines.... Can you give me any tips? Thanks! http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/198210-vfc-mp5-umarex-licensed/page__view__findpost__p__2480272 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Brigg Posted March 23, 2012 Report Share Posted March 23, 2012 knock out the pin at the top, then, using a hammer and a punch (preferably covered in tape or something of that nature), tap the inner magazine out from the top, using the punch to hit toward the rear of the inner magazine. after a few light taps you will need to depress the knocker valve, as you can break it if you let it get caught on the outer sleeve. and it will get caught. Once youre sure the valve wont get trashed by the sleeve, then continue tapping the inner piece downward. eventually it will slide out freely. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 So the RA-Tech NPAS arrived! It does not fit as standard however I have a feeling the one designed for TM Pistols may work. Either way I managed to mod it to fit, though don't have a chrono just yet so can't quite tell. Consitancy is also a little better due to this though, which is nice. Finished the Lumi-Weld mod to the bolt which is working well but it is still waring away under that lever. Which baffles me a little since this Lumi Weld stuff is meant to be as tough as steel. None the less its an easy repair job which will cost you £15.00 for about 500 bolts worth so not too bad! Pics! --------------- However Im having another problem.. My MP5 seems to be eating nozzles, all in the same place aswell. The bb feeding lip peice is bending and deforming, on the standard bolt it deformed so much it would only feed from the 'right hand side' of the mag. One of the polycarb ones lips just broke straight off. At this rate may have to try the Metal one. Secondly Im getting a few jams, around the hop unit. However I think this is due to the nozzle. Anyone else having this issue? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
hitmanNo2 Posted March 26, 2012 Report Share Posted March 26, 2012 I assume you're running it on green? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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