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Spencerman

VFC MP5 (Umarex Licensed)

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For me it is still so far so good. I am even considering getting the G36 so that I can compare it to the WE G39, unless WE release thier MP5 for me to get first! If you want a gas MP5 then so far there is no doubt in my mind as to which one to buy, for all the reasons that I pointed out previously. The lack of bolt stop is an issue that when using the gun I find very frustrating. The umarex trades are also a little disappointing for me personally, but the attention to the tiny details like the rollers etc. is out of this world. I still havent messed with my hop yet, so I shall probably set that to true next game day, but I am getting very nice distance and good grouping as it is out of the box, it only needs fine tuning ever so slightly, which is why I havent bothered yet as it is a little bit fiddly to do. I would recommend it in an instant, unless you want to wait and see what the WE offering will be like. From what I have seen and heard of it so far, it should be a very nice skirmish gun. I dont think it will have the little details like the VFC one does, and I would imagine that it will have heavier recoil than the VFC one (which I like!), but then it was also supposed to be out months and months ago, so how long do you wait for a gun to possibly turn up and not knowing what it will be like when it does? When it does, and I get one, then reguardless as to how good it is, having bought the VFC one is not a purchase I would regret anyway, so yes I definately recommend it, with a big smiley face! :)

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I would only recommend it if you are experienced with liquid charged guns, understands its limitations, and most important, know how to properly maintain them. This is not a beginner or starter gun; it will only disappoint you as it will NOT perform as well as electric or HPA guns. The only other production liquid charged sub-gun I have is the KSC MP-7; in my opinion the MP7 is internally designed better and as a result, performs better. However, I use this MP5 more often as my primary than the MP7 as it's fun to use.

 

The bolt lock isn't a problem if you install the followers. There is a fear that the bolt locking followers will damage the nozzle, or vice-versa, but they are holding up so far and has yet to fail (I've been cycling through four magazines, all with the locking follower installed). It's important to note that I swapped the recoil spring to the weaker one so the nozzle is hitting the follower with less force.

 

I have not been so lucky with the accuracy, but I'm only using HFC134A. At longer ranges, the grouping are poor and I often switch to my backup (a stock Marui P226E2 also on 134A) which seems to be considerably more accurate. The hop is difficult to access as you need to remove the nozzle (i.e. bolt carrier) and access it with a proprietary wrench.

 

All main and fill valves on the magazines are holding up fine - no leaks at all. There are a few after market parts out now, but I don't feel they are necessary as the stock parts are working perfectly fine.

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Thanks for the excellent write ups, both Spencerman and BaBaBooey.

 

Are there any versions of this gun that are not marked "6mm BB" in white on the top of the receiver?

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You're lucky.

 

I recently bought VFC MP5.

 

I have two magazine, old one and new one(there was serious magazine bug when it fired in full-auto), and one of them badly leaks.

 

when i fiil the magazine, not just 'gas' leak, even 'liquid' too....

 

and the magazine's bottom plate is fastened with 2 spring pin, so i need exact same diameter pin-puncher to disassemble it.

 

Gun itself is very nice, but magazine sucks...

Edited by volante

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Yeah, all my magazines are the new ones - they all have the painted "9 X 19" on them and not engraved. However, there is so much cool down it does not fire well at all on full auto. In my opinion, it's the poor double shell design. It's so bad that I completely removed the full auto components (for sale in the classified :) ) from my trigger pack and just use it semi-only. Here's a good post on how to disassemble the trigger pack -> link If anyone is interested, If anyone has questions around disassembly, please feel free to post here.

 

I think it's designed for propellants with extremely low bowling points; from my experience full-auto doesn't work at all even on a hot summer day using 134A. It starts to sputter around 5 BB's and then it completely vents.

 

On a side note, my bolt carrier is also starting to show excessive wear from hitting the valve knocker lock (I checked after I saw the photo in the link - the lock seems to be fine). I noticed that my first trigger pack did NOT have one installed. It didn't impact the chrono readings with or without the lock. It seemed to vent less with it, but I don't think it really did. As the parts worn down, I think it started to naturally cycle much smoother preventing the vents. I might pull it off for my next game to see how it work.

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Yes, the trades are a major issue for me too, as you are paying to have them all legit and licenced and yet they are not there. Having said that, the attention to the small details is amazing, such as the roller cams and clips etc. It is not perfect, but it will certainly take a lot of beating.

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Question...does it make a difference if i remove the small triangle bit on the bottom of the loading nozzle? I was advised by Clarence (he removed mine) that the small bit actually damages the entire nozzle if you load the mag without locking the catch back first. it won't damage it immediately, but it will wear it down faster than without the bit

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Question...does it make a difference if i remove the small triangle bit on the bottom of the loading nozzle? I was advised by Clarence (he removed mine) that the small bit actually damages the entire nozzle if you load the mag without locking the catch back first. it won't damage it immediately, but it will wear it down faster than without the bit

 

I don't see a triangular piece on the loading nozzle? I also got an Azimuth nozzle and it doesn't appear to have a triangular shaped object on the bottom.

 

On a side note, I've taken this through more than a dozen CQB games and it's held up fairly well without any significant failures (still cycling through four stock magazines with the bolt stop followers attached). I have given it a fair amount of maintenance before and after each game. The accuracy, hop, and cool down is very poor, but I was told it might be because I'm using 134A on the weaker recoil spring.

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Ok, time for a quick update. I am no longer happy. Having played half a day this Sunday using this gun, I started experiencing some problems, a few minor, and one very very major issue. Now, I have maintained my gun, not mistreated it, and used it not overly heavily as I only have the three magazines, and using them over and over and over again then they do very soon start to show cooldown. This is fine, it is the same with most gas guns. However, this Sunday I was finiding that it was venting gas much more heavily, and I didnt think that it was overly cold. As a result the gun started jamming every now and then, and releasing a puff of gas with no bb. Very frustrating. Then the catastrophic failure occurred. The nozzle broke. The part that broke was the little sticky out part just underneath the round bit that the gas comes out of to fire the bb (essentially the part that feeds the bb), and thus in turn rammed a bb into the feed ramp of the barrel assembly, wedging it very firmly in place underneath the round bit that the gas comes out of. It wedged so hard that you can see wear on the feed ramp, once I eventually prised it out, and that did take some doing. I shall try and take some pictures at some point, but hopefully the way I have described the failure everyone will know exactly which bit I am refferring to, as every new gas gun pretty much has one exactly the same. I do not have the time at the moment to get the replacement part and sort it out, so for the time being I have a very pretty and ultra realistic wall hanger. With WE keeping on threatening to come out with an MP5, I may not even get the chance to bother to fix it until I get one of thiers, and then we shall see if I will even bother.

 

I would like to point out that I very rarely used the gun out of single shot, as apart from the fact that I tend to use single more than full, the full auto on this is a little spuradic at times. I therefor have not put an excessive amount of rounds through the gun, probably not much more than 1000 (remember that I am running 90 rounds a time).

 

So, the bottom line so far, I have not bought their G36. I am still very impressed with detail and effort put into making this gun, and would still recommend it for anyone wanting a gas MP5, as it really is the only chioce at the moment. Performance wise, it is not bad, not as accurate as my WE guns when they are working, but it is not bad. My fault is probably easily repairable, I know what I need to do to fix it, I just dont have the time to find the parts I need and do it at the moment. If the WE MP5 comes along, then I may not bother, depending on how good that is. Considering how very very good VFC AEG guns are, their gas entries so far are very dissapointing, despite the attention to detail.

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Well, thanks to that link Hitman I ordered that feed nozzle. It came with no instructions how to install it. Now, I cannot recall whether I mentioned this really annoying fact earlier on or not, but I have found this now to be the case in a few manuals lately, the MP9 being another that has this lack of info. There is no exploded diagram in the manual. Where do all the parts go? How do they go? And the most important thing with some bits, which way round do they go? So, I have the new part with no instructions of how to fit it, and sweet fa from the original instruction manual. This wasnt a huge issue for me, as I am familiar with gas, but I really wanted to stress about it for anyone who is not. I did consult youtube to see how to remove the feed nozzle, and I am glad that I did, and it certainly didnt take much searching.

 

One thing that I did find quite difficult on the new nozzle, was putting the pin through the hole to hold the innerds in place. It was a very tight fit, slightly too small a hole in my opinion, but with a little force and a lot of patients in it went, eventually.

 

So, I now have a reinforced feed nozzle installed, so how does the gun work? Using an empty magazine to test with, it fires fine, no problems and everything seems to be working as it should be. But what about with a loaded magazine? Well, I cannot test that until my next skirmish, which may be next week, or a few weeks away, I am not sure yet when I will be able to make it next for certain as I am still so busy at the moment, but I shall update as soon as I do. I shall also take some pictures of the broken nozzle etc.

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You're not the only one Spence.

 

Vic down here at KGB has one of these too and it too has had the nozzle go.

I've been inside this and it is truly lovely. Very nicely put together, which unfortunately confounds Vic all the time. He has little patience and trying remove a part with a hidden roll pin or grub screw usually ends up with it being hit with a hammer!

 

He loves his, and hates it at the same time. But I did warn him..... it's a gas gun. They'll draw you in and chew you up!

 

If you can deal with heartache and pain, this is a nice gun to own.

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Hi guys. I am distressed about reading what happened to your nozzles. I saw spares online. My question is, is it recommended to get a spare aluminum nozzle? Or should I stick to the polymer or plastic ones.

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Personally I would stick to the polymer ones, and the one that I installed is the one linked to earlier. I managed to test the gun, and it works fine again. I got no feed jams or feeding issues. I am starting to notice the inconsistancy of the hop a little more now as it is starting to bed in, so now is the time for me to start fiddling about with that, as I have said earlier that I wanted to give a chance to get some rounds through it and start to break in before I adjust it, mainly I think because it is such a pain to adjust! :rolleyes: I am hoping that once the hop is adjusted properly then it may also smooth out some of my full auto firing inconsistancies. These are nothing major, mainly that it will fire about 8 or 9 rounds at a nice steady pace, and then seem to slow right down for one or two shots, then speed back up again. This may been down to cooldown, as it is only full auto, but it may also be partly to do with the hop, we shall see. I dont ever play with it is full auto anyway, it is just that sometimes you really need something to make you smile. :)

 

I havent had time to take any pictures.

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Had this gun for a week and my mag is already leaking after going through 3 mags.... It's unfortunate such an expensive airsoft gun has so many small issues.

Also experienced bb jamming problems...

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Same as every brand new model will be lots of little probs, they will prob release a gen II in the next while

 

GENII? Damn. Any reinforced parts you recommend getting?

Also how to fix the mag, it's leaking from the top valve.

I pulled the pin out but the mag will not slide out, it seems to be jammed stuck inside the cover.

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GENII? Damn. Any reinforced parts you recommend getting?

Also how to fix the mag, it's leaking from the top valve.

I pulled the pin out but the mag will not slide out, it seems to be jammed stuck inside the cover.

 

I didn't end up getting one in the end, my pistol fetish took over again.Just a general observation really buddy on how faults get addressed over time. Have you tried ra-tech for upgrades, they have worked wonders for the WE system. Pretty sure they do a custom VFC range but dont quote me on it.

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My stock MP5 performed great all throughout the season. It never performed on full auto due to a tremendous amount of cool down; I ended up stripping all the F/A controls and posted them for sale. My version came with two recoil springs and I used the weaker one on 134A and 152A. Cycled through a total of 4 magazines (all four had the painted markings; I know there are engraved ones and I'm not sure if it makes a difference); none have leaked and I have had no feeding issues. I first had the original bolt locks installed on all four magazines, but changed them to the Azimuth version after I switched the loading nozzle to Azimuth. My bolt carrier did start to show signs of wear and might swap it out if I can get a new one.

 

To take apart the magazine, you need to strike the inner magazine very hard - please refer to my post on page 1. It is extraordinarily tight, held together only through friction. Also, don't forget to depress the valve as it will push against the outer shell and can damage the valve.

 

In my opinion, it will be very difficult for a liquid charged gun to perform equally or better than an HPA charged one.

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The VFC G36 is now using GenII mags, I might still think about getting one, though reviews on them are pretty scarse. I know that they dont have as strong a recoil as the WE version, but I dont know how they handle the cold, something that the WE does amazingly well.

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There is a new steel bolt carrier made by Crusader for the VFC G36 that will improve the recoil for sure.

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/wgc2008/main/product_detail1.php?search_From=searchItem&item=CR-VF22-0004&search=special&rs=vfc g36&catid=&cat=

 

I will never buy the WE instead of the VFC because of the realism on the internals.

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