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KJ Works, KC-02 (Ruger 10/22) Thread


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Hi All.


I thought I might start a thread specifically for the 10/22 , as the review and news threads for it are getting cluttered.


I hope this is a good place for it, Mods feel free to move it if not.



I finally bought mine on Friday, after reading all the threads and reviews over the last couple of months.


I gave it a clean up, removed a lot of excess oil, and fired quiet a few mags through it that night, very impressed with it, but...


I removed all the extra rails and swapped out the stock for a Magpul MOE off of an AEG, added my favourite low mag scope.




Then I started looking for an RS stock , and in doing found a lot of info on the 10/22, including a mod for reducing wear on the internals.


The recoil buffer on the 10/22 (RS and KJW) is a steel pin that crosses the receiver behind the bolt , a lot of RS shooter replace this with a


polymer "recoil buffer" http://www.tufferbuffer.com/page.php?id=936 like this


I also found some shooters were making their own...




the easiest way is to take some 1/4 inch (6mm) rubber hose -mine came from a fish tank air pump- chop off a 32mm section


and find a small piece of metal rod around 4mm x 32mm that fits snuggly inside the pipe - mine was a bit of tent peg-


clear and takedown the rifle




rear stock screw




front stock screw




set safety in middle position and lift the action from the stock.




remove trigger mech pin rear




trigger mech pin front




remove trigger mech




remove buffer pin




replace buffer pin with rubber tube




insert metal pin into rubber tube, reassemble and test.


Sorry if that was long winded!


it seems to really smooth the action and hopefully remove the stress from the metal on metal impact (I'm using propane in all my GBB's)


If it's good enough for RS it should last forever for airsoft.


This takes away a lot of noise from the action (I'm running it suppressed) and due to reduced recoil double taps are deadly accurate.


If I have time later this week I will try and document the internal suppressor mod.


Please add any mods you have tried or tricks you have found.



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Hi guy's got one these beauties this week. Found the fps a little high for my liking (430 on ultra) so I went about ways to lower it.


All you need is a standard gearbox shim and you can drop the fps down to 340-355 on Abbey ultra biggrin.gif


Here's how..


Strip the gun down and remove the BBU.

Pop the pin out that holds the floating valve in place.

Remove the valve and spring.

Pop your shim in the hole you valve and spring sits in followed by the spring and then the valve.



end product should look like this.






Gas consumption is good at 3 and a bit mags on one fill. Power "creep" was not an issue on .2's and .25's as the muzzle energy on both was around 1.04j. However .4's saw the output shoot up to 1.52j. (all values taken on ultra and room temp over 10 shots)

FPS on Red Gas was @400 on .2's

Muzzle report was noticeably lower and blowback was unchanged.


Nice little shooter now I've removed all the clutter. smile.gif



Needs red dot wink.gif


Hope this helps



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Nice one Dave,


Photo speaks a thousand words so...




Barrel extension > internal suppressor (scotchbrite is optional baffle material wrapped around extension inside outer barrel)


That and the buffer have quietened her down a bit, considering I intend to use her as a 450 fps counter sniper with 20m MED should be quiet enough.


Sling wise, I've refitted the front sling mount and found an SA80 sling fits perfectly between that and the vertical "slit" mount on the MOE stock for biathalon style carry.



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Did anyone try the 509mm inner barrel and extension from EhobbyAsia? I'm interested how powerful and accurate the 10/22 is with it installed, considering that EHA have the rifle for $200 and extension for $70, which is only $20 more combined than only the rifle at Redwolf.

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Hey guys. Been waiting for some time for a topic like this. I am also considering this rifle as a summer alternative to my dear VSR. Semi auto capability, good range with 0.40g and small/light body and action.


About the 509mm barrel. I read on a US forum that the power level went to 500FPS but the accuracy is so-so. Needs some testing with different hopup rubbers. At the moment there are 3: stock KJW, Ra-Tech clear and the blue hop rubber by Falcon.


Secondly - we really need an accuracy and range test at 30-50m with 0.3-0.4g bb-s.



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Hey Jim, I have a very similar mod to my barrel. It also brought my FPS down by 10 ish. Which is a good thing for my set up :)


Just a note RED gas can cause the mags to fail at the main seal due to the retaining screw being off center. You can actually see the join expand at one edge when you fill the mags. Straight mags should solvethis as they are built differently.


And finally the shim fps reducer may need a spot of glue to hold it in place as mine slipped past the first coil of the float valve spring. Better safe than sorry!


That's it for now!

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I have just heard back from Action hobbies , (where I purchased the gun and spare mag) they are going to try and get the long 30 round mags in but are currently unavailable.


they still have the rifle and 24 round mags in stock though.


Paul at action hobbies recommended looking at the Falcon hop rubber and barrel , he has heard they are a better combination than other brand barrel/hop combos.


I would probably have to use your mod Dave to get the power back down to near 450 as the longer barrels are claimed to top 500 fps easily .



long mags


Looking at the video RA tech brought out , it show that the long mags have a visable magazine follower down the front like a TM Glock mag,


and can load from the bottom of the slot in the same manner, much easier than using a speedloader on the 24 rounders. I will grab one next time I see one in stock!




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The kjw mag release is an extended version, the rs is flush fit.


There is a 2 part airsoft version on ehobbyasia already,


Makes it look like a lever action!


And the other "common" mod the auto bolt release is already in place


On the airsoft version it is the only way to release the bolt stop, by pulling


back on the cocking handle, as kjw didnt add the bolt release catch to the


trigger guard.





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The kjw mag release is an extended version, the rs is flush fit.


There is a 2 part airsoft version on ehobbyasia already,


Makes it look like a lever action!

Yeah, that's what I meant, the one that looks like a spoon going under the trigger guard. Care to post a link? The RS one costs $35, so if I used my channels, I could get it - now the only problem is in fitting.
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I think he means will the recoil bust his aimpoint...


Probably not if you do the buffer mod I detailed earlier in the thread, I know GBBR's have killed some airsoft grade optics in the past, but the 10/22 isnt too fierce.


I have some photo's to put up detailing polishing the hammer and bolt for a smoother action now, will post later.



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Didn't see a guide on how to get the KJ's into real steel stocks, so I'll slap a quick one up here.


First off, as the KJ's have a larger outer barrel diameter than a stock 10/22, you'll be needing a stock for a .920 bull barreled 10/22.


What you'll need: -Hacksaw -Metal file -Sandpaper



1. Remove your front and rear stock screws, set safety to middle, and remove action.

2. Clamp your receiver to ensure there's no slipping. Barrel assembly and trigger mech can be removed for this at owner's discretion. I personally left them in.

3. Ensuring it's even, saw off your rear retaining tab, as circled below. I like to leave a couple millimeters of the retaining tab to help ensure a tight fit in RS stocks.


(Photo by Gisburn20)


4. Using your metal file and sandpaper, clean up the hacksaw cut.

5. Slide in the rear of your receiver into the RS stock, then rock it forward, pushing the barrel down to the stock. There's a tongue-and-groove section on RS stocks that you'll need to get the rear of your receiver into. KJ's fit into this just fine without their retaining tab, it's just not a straight down drop. Have to rock it! Also, depending on how much of the KJ's retaining tab you left on, you may need to do some more filing. Receiver should mesh smoothly with the stock as shown below. Be sure it isn't leaving any big gaps, etc., as this can mess up installation of your forward stock screw.



6. You'll now need to install your forward stock screw. However, the ones that come with the KJ's aren't nearly long enough. Hit up your local hardware store and pick one up that's 1/4"-1/2" or so longer than your current one. Should then be a straight bolt-in fit.


Aaaand, that's it! Surprisingly easy. Definitely wish I'd known that for my first KJ 10/22 in which I modified the stock to fit the KJ instead of the other way around.

First pic was also taken from Gisburn20 (thanks!), as I didn't have any from before I hacked mine. Another good thing to note is your KJ will no longer work exceptionally well with its original stock. It'll still fit, but as there's no rear tongue-and-groove section in the KJ stock, the only thing holding it to the stock will be your front stock screw.



End result:


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Thanks Andy, nice one!


Right, Polishing the hammer and lightening the trigger pull.




trigger mech out , and for polishing -1000 grit wet and dry paper attached to a board with double sided carpet tape




lightly polished the top of the bolt, where the 2 halves of the molding meet was really uneven...





The hammer mech dismantles very much the same as the real rifle


these threads help.





Basically to dismantle the trigger mech you push through the trigger / hammer pins and it all lifts out the top.


Putting it back together can be a pain in the *albatross* worse than replacing a KSC Glock 18c trigger spring!


simply put , you need to make a slave pin ( a shorter version of the trigger pin ) so you can build the trigger group outside


the trigger mech housing, drop it in , then slide the full length pin in through the mech pushing the slave pin out the other side.


I used a nail the correct diameter, and cut to length with a dremel ,as a slave pin- turned a 30 minute job into 30 seconds


I didnt photograph this as I would have needed an extra set of hands...




Hammer after polishing (oiled the 1000 grit and worked the flat of the hammer against it till I got a smooth finish)



This and a light coating of ceramic grease made the whole action smoother.


Whilst I was in the trigger group I also took a diamond coated file to the notch where the sear meets the hammer just to smooth it off


the trigger release.


The real steel guys call this "stoning the trigger" although they are far more precise than I was ,I just "eyeballed" mine.


The last thing I did was to remove the tiny 1mm allan grub screw at the back of the mech below the exit hole for the hammer spring rod,


to access the trigger spring and plunger (hammer needs to be forward to see this)




I swapped out the spring for a softer one and polished the tiny "plunger" to further lighten the trigger, make sure the grub screw


is flush with the mech when refitting or the hammer wont cock. (spring from an old cupboard lock )





Whilst the bolt was stripped out , I pulled apart the BBU to check it over ., fiddley but not too bad, just held together by cross pins.


anyone fancy making up an NPAS kit for it?




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Dang, nice guide man! Might have to try that out; I'd definitely not mind a super-light trigger on mine!


Did some work on mine today making/installing one of the bolt buffers; definitely a nice addition!


Question on the FPS-reducing shim though. I'd done a different mod to reduce fps on my last 10/22 (I'll put up a guide here at some point). This time I figured I'd try out the shim method though. Prior to adding it in, my gun was shooting right around 340fps with .4's reasonably consistently. After adding it in, my rifle's shooting at 364fps with .4's. Rather potent jump with .4's for a velocity reducer! I have an RATech 6.01 390mm barrel and a Falcon bucking installed in my rifle; other than that she's internally stock. Any idea why this is happening? And any idea how I can drop it on down? My goal fps is just under 450fps with .2's so I can run it as a DMR.




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As in, your bolt-catch isn't catching after the last round? Or in, your bolt-catch is catching when there's still rounds in the chamber?


I've personally never encountered the first issue, but if you've got it, my guess would be the springs. Make sure your bolt-catch spring is installed correctly and make sure your magazines/etc. are seated fully. Otherwise, bend the bolt-catch spring for a different tension.


The latter is a problem that I know a number of people (myself included) have had. One of my 10/22's just needed some breaking in to solve the issue.


A fix similar to this also does the trick: http://kwausa.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2397

Took my 2nd 10/22 apart and just did a bit of sanding/filing on the mag catch. Definitely did the trick!




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