Jump to content

KJ Works, KC-02 (Ruger 10/22) Thread


gisburn20

Recommended Posts

I've just put a ra-tech tightbore barrel in my kc-02 originaly the inner barrel is 250mm long. I put the 363mm barrel, its a nice fit! (Will take pictures of it)

The NPAS kit for the WE open bolt series works in the kc-02 aswell as in the hi-capa handguns and in the 1911series from tm.

I have no chrono so I don't know what kind of fps its giving.

 

Last time I went to a game with it, it stopped working within 10min... ( It was like -15°C :-D)

I have 1long and 1short mag for the moment, the short blew it seal the first time i used it, with the long one I haven't had a problem yet.

 

I so badly want an ar kit (from nordic) for the kc-02, but there not available in belgium...

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 401
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Has anybody thought about rigging one of these to HPA?

 

Actually, one of these where rigged to HPA in Lithuania. By a guy, who owns a store here. He is some evil HPA custom rifle builder - has some nice Tanaka platforms... I dont know if i can post link to his contact due to advertising rules.

Link to post
Share on other sites

not that common iot seems, I have had one fail and in essence it took 3minuets to fix the mags are so simple to take apart and rebuild. Mostly it seems they are prone to drying out as most people now use propane and the seal needs a lick of silicone grease on it to help it seal up , nothing major.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys! Figured I'd update this with how installing a real steel Volquartsen target trigger went.

 

I bought the trigger for ~$30 from MidwayUSA.

 

Taking apart the trigger mechanism is definitely a PITA. Side-by-side, the Volquartsen trigger and the KJ trigger are fairly similar. One of the two holes on the Volquartsen needed to be widened to fit one of the KJ pins, but that was easily accomplished with a drill.

 

After widening that hole, the trigger will seem to be a drop-in fit. However, at this point the gun WILL NOT FIRE. Save yourself the hassle of re-assembling it! The Volquartsen trigger needs to be filed on top, allowing the trigger sear a greater range of motion. Simply file away and side-by-side compare it to the trigger sear's range of motion in the KJ trigger until you have a similar range of motion.

 

Installing it was then exactly the same as the KJ trigger. I substituted a small spring for the trigger reset, as filing of the Volquartsen trigger caused it to act up with the standard trigger reset plunger.

 

Hope that helps for anyone interested in doing it! Sorry I didn't take pictures while doing it (although I did take a side-by-side pic of the triggers if I can find it). Here are some pics and a demo of the final product though! I'd definitely say it was worthwhile. The trigger has virtually no play now and has a very short break. Quite nice!

 

100_1842.jpg

100_1843.jpg

100_1840.jpg

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTwPAfCJiG0

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

A Falcon 509mm tightbore for KJW M4 fits without problems, I just finished installing mine. Also, I scratched the finish due to how stupidly tight the front barrel cap was. Had to use a wrench to unscrew it.

 

Also, sweet Jesus is this thing LOUD. Not even a silencer helps.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Holy *suitcase*, I just swapped it out (barrel and hop), and damn the gun has a lot of screws and parts that must be secured when screwing it back in. The back part of the trigger/barrel assembly had these super lubed-up pins that loved to slide out.

 

And I have raged the most over any airsoft gun over the safety's ball bearing. That thing sucks man.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think pretty much any rs stock for a bull barrel will fit with minor sanding if you follow the steps detaild somewhere << back in the thread abut 2 pages.

Happy shopping.

They say it will fit a stock meant for bull barrel without any sanding, the trouble starts when you have a stock for normal barrel as that requires some work.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Im having a few hop issues with my 10/22. It appears to do absolutley nothing. Fully on fully off, no change. So I added a ball bearing in but that just made to hop way to agressive unless using .43gs, just..

 

So I added a little bit of JBWeld on the end currently waiting for it to dry.

 

Anyone else had such issues?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Im having a few hop issues with my 10/22. It appears to do absolutley nothing. Fully on fully off, no change. So I added a ball bearing in but that just made to hop way to agressive unless using .43gs, just..

 

So I added a little bit of JBWeld on the end currently waiting for it to dry.

 

Anyone else had such issues?

 

I did - The fix I did quoted from a few pages back. Obviously if you want to use .2's or .25's, you can just file the plastic bit a little flatter.

 

Other than that, it's been flawless. One thing I have found however is that the hop takes almost all of the adjustment to get a decent flick on a .3. I'm also not too comfortable with the idea of a metal screw pressing down fairly hard on the bucking, which I imagine is going to increase the wear on the rubber. With that in mind, I've done a simple mod to the hop that gives a much greater range of adjustability. I've lost the ability to use .2's without them going up a little sooner than I'd like, but anything with a weight of .25 or above can be adjusted for. Basically, all I did was cut a cross section of biro ink tube the same width as the screw, and then file it flat. Seems to have reduced the amount of fliers somehow as an added bonus!

 

P1010625.jpg

 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hahahahaha...NO. I spent two hours with a small saw, files and sandpaper to try making it fit. It still doesn't - it has a 2mm wide gap over the barrel, only because the screws in the front and the one on the carry handle keep the two halves together. Also, it looks worse than a $1 Chinese springer - flashing all over the place, fitting issues and the halves don't exactly match up.

Maybe I should sell it and buy a normal Hogue stock. They're cheaper, they look nicer, and you don't need that useless mushy trigger bar.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.