KJ Works, KC-02 (Ruger 10/22) Thread

[PureSilver]

Looking good - can you show the damage to the inside of the receiver? Regarding the hop-unit, you have three options - temperature, mechanical pressure, and chemicals. I vaguely remember discussion about the nut being thread-locked on, so perhaps a dip in hot water will help (but obviously, make sure any plastics in there aren't thermoplastics) to loosen things up. Alternatively, just use Lane's Principle;

 

There is no problem that cannot be solved by a suitable application of blunt force.

[NonEx]

Yeah will try to take pics this weekend of the damage. It's basically just a hairline crack in the polymer on the inside due to the flex that was forced on it. I am unsure of if the slight marks/bulges that are on the oposing side (outside) are a result of this or if they have been there all along. Cant remember really. It's a minor issue as I said since its aluminum inside. BTW that last pic is a cut out from the Hogue catalog of how the stock is build and the red lines is an illustration of where the damage is.

 

OK will try silicon oil and heat to loosen that sucker.. :|

[Bjerre]

Anyone know where to get the CO2 mags from?

 

You can get the Co2 mag. fro JD Airsoft in UK:

http://jdairsoft.net/product/98dfc407-08ef-41fd-bba9-006dc137c08a.aspx

See in the bottum of the page

 

///Bjerre

[NonEx]

I realized that yes, you do want the outer/inner barrel cap because it stabilizes and centers the inner barrel inside the outer barrel, however the extra tubing inside is just an "extension" of the shorter stock barrel. Will have to take a closer look this weekend.

[PureSilver]

I had checked FunGun.

 

Like I said, it depends upon your definition of the words "can be exported outside of [the] USA".

 

Back to FunGun - the kit is sold by Brownells 'without restriction', so it may be they'd be happy to ship it to you.

[NonEx]

Please. Items over 100 USD require a DDTC export license registration which means 250 USD or 3% cost for application, 30-60 days processing time and you might still get denied purchase. Don't tell people to buy from Brownells just because the item is avaliable there without restrictions without telling the whole story. But give it a try, the process is not fun. Also I doubt such a small "shop" is DDTC registered which means that the item cannot be exportet anyways, which is most likely why they state on their webpage that they do not export. "Without restrictions" refer to the fact that the item does not require a license or is covered by specific state laws, it does not take ITAR and DDTC into consideration.

 

Got another package in today for the 10/22, feel like I maybe should have fired it in stock form before taking it appart.. Oh well. Just waiting on scope, mounts, screw, sling swivels and bipod now.

 

 

Got the Blaster 0.2g BBs for chronoing.

[PureSilver]

Isn't the item shipped from Brownells, who are DDTC registered? Or is it the manufacturer who must be? To be honest, even with a 3% surcharge I'd still be tempted to try the American route; that's how bad the price difference is between the US and the UK. If the item is available in the destination country already (like most of the parts I want from the US are) then I reckon my export application has at least a reasonable chance of success. I'm going to set up a conversation with Brownells and see what can and can't be done; it's a pain in the *albartroth* but hey, e-mail's free.

[NonEx]

No the manufacturer has to be registered.

 

From Brownells DDTC paperwork documentation;

Registration of Manufactures:

All US manufacturers, exporters, and brokers of defense articles, defense services, or related technical data, as defined on the USML, are required to register with US Department of State. Registration is primarily a means to provide the US Government with necessary information on who is involved in certain manufacturing and exporting activities. Registration does not confer any export rights or privileges, but is a precondition for the issuance of any license or other approval for export.^[19] Registration fees start at USD$2,250 per year.^[20]

Under ITAR, a “US person” who wants to export USML items to a “foreign person” must obtain authorization from the US Department of State before the export can take place.^[3]

 

So any small shop manufacturer who are not DDTC registered cannot export their goods, period.

 

Any order of such items will be denied an nullified when Brownells review the order. This happens after the order has been completed but before they charge you credit card of the sub total.

 

I can forward you my e-mail conversation with Brownells if you want referense.

[sandstorm]

And I don't really want the 10/22 to Chicago Tommy kit, but the Squad Leader / M1 kit, anyway.

[NonEx]

Oh yeah AirsoftTaiwan replied back and apologized and they will send me the RA hop rubber ASAP.

 

EDIT: Brownells might have some type of DDTC license but they help _you_ with _your_ DDTC license registration. Something which not all retailers do. For example MAGPUL online shop only ships in the US unless you turn to the DDTC yourself without any type of "Brownells" guideline papers as help.

 

I will soon know what type of screw you need to replace the stock takedown screw.

 

And I also realized that the stock might have been "damanged" when I first handled it and I was "feeling it up" and flexing it, that might have done the damage and not the internals.

 

Cant wait for this weekend when I can sit down and try to get it together, however without the takedown screw I wont be able to complete it

 

The buffer issue bothers me. I don't think I want to expand the actual hole i the receiver. I will try to sand down the buffer I think and see how that goes...

 

The King Arms BBs slid thru the RA inner barrel without problems, so I think they will work.

 

I also realized, I think, that the RA inner barrel will _not_ extend all the way to the muzzle, which I thought it would. Seems 10-15 cm short... :|

[Black!]

Just wanna say is there any chance someone could make a guide on youtube on how to sort this rifle out with a npas kit? heard afew differant ones work with it. Also a guide on how to install a new barrel and hop would be kool too. I allready have the falcon kit for it but dont want to install it cause 1 dont know how to and 2 i know it will be too powerfull for uk sites.

[NonEx]

Got a reply from KJW, they said that the CO2 mags are so new we should just wait a while for the shops to stock them. I think the DK shop listed it as in stock from 12th of April so they are brand new basically.

[Mike_West]

I got the outer barrel and rail installed. I could not for the life of me disassemble the hop unit from the barrel, I guess The Hulk Koba himself has tightened it with his mighty airsoft-smitting hands... Any ideas on how to get the nut loose ?

Oh Christ, you got that problem too? I thought I'll pop a vein attempting to unscrew the end cap from the barrel, it took me fifteen minutes or so, the hop-up came out much easier (and that's good, damaging it would be worse than just scratching the pain on the endcap).

[NonEx]

I found an RA Tech video on how to do it, they put a tool in the cut out in the hop and a wrench around the nut for torque. Should work.

[Doc11]

Well, didn't have any trouble disassembling the hop-up unit.

I had much more troubles trying to get the barrel extension support piece out.

[NonEx]

Yeah that was a *badgeress* too just had to slide it back and forth until it came out. Did you install it after the upgrade or did you leave it out ?

[Doc11]

Well, I replaced the stock inner barrel with a 380mm ra-tech, so it had to come out one way or another.

The 380mm barrel goes all the way to the muzzle cap.

[NonEx]

I see. Well i just looked in the RA outer barrel and there is allready a centering peice in there so you don't need to insert anything. And in the RA outer barrel a 380 is not long enough to go all the way, maybe in the stock barrel.

 

Anyways, been dremmeling like a mad man now. First things first, my receiver cracked because i stretched it lenght wise, not width wide. When trying to jam the internals in without having the tab flush all the way I heard the polymer on one side of the stock go *pop*. Still no biggie as the aluminium core in the stock plus the internals inside will keep it sturdy enough, just consider it.

 

OK. I cut off the tab. You have to sand it down absolutely flush to the rear, not even 0.25mm can be left.

 

Secondly I had to sand on the front tangs of the chassit to make it come in, I will post pics later. The tab at the back was the worst part actually. Broke 4-5 Dremmel discs in the process, but thats just be being a tool with tools.

 

I also decided to dremmel up the holes for the buffer, almost got it but the dremmel is so hot now I had to take a break.

 

I am slightly concerned right now about the takedown screw being the only point keeping it together but I think it will work. If not I guess I have to order a new chassi and mod the stock.

 

The chassi fits like a glove now in the stock anyways, so with the screw and barrel in place I think it can turn out allright.

 

Clumsy me managed to not cover up the chassi with tape (i used 2 layers of duct tape, keeps the finish secure when dremmeling) and I managed to scratch a tiny bit of the 2% of the chassi that is visible when in the stock, gosh darnit. However I am contemplating sanding down the whole chassi and having it in silver, the aluminium underneath is quiet nice so with some work and clear coat that could work.

 

I will probably finish up tonight, but I still have no screw. Speaking of which. what you need for fitting in an RS stock is an MC6S M5x30 screw. You can get an H model with threads all the way but its not neccessary.

 

Woop woop !

 

By the way, the trick for the inner barrel disassembly is found here:

 

Once I had it off and cleaned the threads and put some teflon tape on it it came together much more smoothly. However I can rock the inner barrel slghtly back and forth inside the hop chamber, can't recall that happening in the stock setup. Anyone know ?

[NonEx]

Prepare to be jelly my friends, I managed to get everything in place and back together, although not secure with the takedown screw, which by the way now that i feel the rest of the rifle, is going to work out fine I beleive.

 

Preliminary results;

 

 

 

I'm actually glad I got the non grooved barrel from AST, feels much better

As I said, waiting for hop rubber, scope, mount rings, vlq mount screw and bipod, then it's done!

 

Woot wooh!

By the way, the RA Tech charging handle does not fit the V2, there is an extra notch on the "backside" of the handle that doesnt fit in the bolt assembly without modding. I said *fruitcage* it I am not that desperate. I had a hard enough time dremmeling the aluminum of the stock gun ffs...

[PureSilver]

Looks good! I am extremely jelly...

[NonEx]

Just have to say after fiddling with it a bit tonight it seems like a real winner, light, rock solid, quick to manuever etc. I havent shot it yet though but I hope that is as good

Judging by all the praise I cant see how it wont be. My new baby!

[vorpalbunnie]

Today i realized something very disappointing about my KC-02, the top rail isn't flat. Well, "they" both are, but not together. At the part where the receiver meets the barrel the rail segments from a very small angle, but an angle nonetheless.

[NonEx]

The RA rail is one peice so conver to that, problem solved. However I don't know if it actually sits/mounts straight but...

[Andyjp]

Vorpal, what setup do you have with your 10/22? Also, what was is the angle between the front rails pointed? Opening up or down? It sounds like your barrel has either:

A. Misaligned/overtightened. Check the receiver opening and barrel to see if there are any burrs or similar that are pushing your barrel up or down. The barrel should slide in smoothly--if it's taking a good bit of force, it might be in there wrong or have something it's getting caught on. Check to see whether your barrel's support/tightening piece is overly loose or tight.

B. Sagged. I'd be surprised at this one, but it could be possible. Can happen with heavy barreled 10/22's that have stocks that don't support the front end.

 

 

Also, NonEx,

I wouldn't worry about the gun being held together by the lone takedown screw. Head on down to your hardware store and get a longer screw to make sure there's plenty of screw threaded in there. My stock KJ screw were considerably too short for both the SS Evolution stock and the Ruger wood stock, so I picked up longer bolts for both.

 

The great thing about cutting off the rear receiver tab (as you did), is you get to use the tongue-and-groove support system in the back of the real 10/22 stock. That paired with the front takedown screw will be more than enough to hold the gun in place--after all, that's the system the real 10/22 uses, and it seems to work just fine!

 

As for the RATech charging handle, I noticed that with my TSC one as well. I'd definitely give it a try, as it doesn't take all too much filing to get it to sit flush. On the plus side, you've got the V2 bolt in there, which has a lot better structural support than the V1.

 

Hope that helps.

Best,

Andy

[bankz5152]

The RS is only held together via 1 takedown screw aswell, so its plenty for airsoft.