PureSilver Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Ah - someone that knows the internal differences between the V1 and the V2! D'you know if RA-Tech's steel bolt carrier will fit the V2? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted April 29, 2012 Report Share Posted April 29, 2012 Well yes and no. I would assume the RS contact point for the single takedown screw is a bit more robust than the KJW screw hole. Not that it looks particularly bad but it could be better. Not to mention the RS receiver is steel, which can handle more torque and stress. It will probably be just fine. Actually tried to dry fire this today without the screw holding it together, wow! I loooove this rifle allready. Smooth, quiet (prop. buffer that helps) and mean operations, I will have alot of fun plinking with this rifle! Link to post Share on other sites
Andyjp Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Puresilver, I truthfully don't. I would guess it will though. I fit a V2 bolt in my V1 gun, and the only difference was the added reinforcement on the V2's bolt. Aside from the differences between the V1 and V2 charging handles, it was a straight drop-in. If you're picking up the RATech bolt carrier, I'd recommend getting a TSC or RATech charging handle as well, as they're designed for the V1. It'd probably be easier than adding material to the stock KJ V2 charging handle. Also, NonEx, believe me, it'll be fine. Just get a longer takedown bolt, and you'll be fine. The tongue-in-groove back end will definitely be doing its job, and unless you're standing on the stock while forcibly yanking on the gun's barrel, the takedown bolt should hold! Best, Andy Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Allrighty then, bipod came in the mail today and I had an oppertunity to take some more pictures Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Gorgeous. Just waiting on the scope and a sling now? Getting more comfortable with the stock? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Scope and mounting gear, sling swivels and a takedown screw is all I am missing, all of it is ordered. Dont have a sling in mind as of yet. Yeah it's coming together nicely, I cant wait to do some plinking with this thing! Stock doesnt smell much now either so thats good Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I couldn't hold myself any longer, I _HAD_ to fire this rifle, one way or another. Ghetto rigged the barrel and internals in with three layers of tightly wrapped duct tape (two layers of household paper towel under to protect the finish), and a Sig Sauer STL-9000L tactical light with laser as my aiming device. Shot with bipod deployed and resting the front end/bipod on a chair. Shot off 10 rounds in 3/3/4 groups to walk in the laser sight and then let it loose on a fresh bulls eye from 7 meters / 23 feet away (sorry, max distance in my appartment, probably patheticly short for this rifle). The center white bullseye measures 22mm in diameter, or 0.86 inches. 10 shots of King Arms 0.36g BBs with hop set to "five clicks". Wooh hooh. Considering the circumstances of the setup and that it hasn't been worked in yet, I am loving it allready. Most likely it could produce the same results from 15 meters probably, can't wait to try it at a longer range and with a scope! From this distance the laser dot blocked the entire bulls eye so it was hard to keep it centered. Shoots and operates like a dream! EDIT: Busted out the chrono as well, Blaster 0.2, 6 shots (first 4 were TOUT due to me being a tool), top FPS 465, avg FPS 440. This is with the RA tech 380mm inner barrel, and stock hop rubber. 26C ambient temp, ASG Ultrair ~130 PSI @ 26C gas. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 2, 2012 Report Share Posted May 2, 2012 Allright guys quick update. My friends dad works at a machine shop so he got me a couple of MC6S screws, the MC6S M5X30mm is a liiiitle too long, has to be cut (otherwise it screws into the outer barrel, not good!). The MC6S M5X25mm is OK but a liiitle too short to feel like a god fit, it's in maybe 3½ turns into the screw block, but there is maybe 5-6 turns avaliable. So I might end up trimming the 30mm one just to get a perfect fit, but out of the box what you want is an MC6S M5X25 screw. I go them in stainless from my friends dad and they don't look bad considering the rest of the rifle, also ordered 10 pack of black online just to have that option. The gun feels secure with the screw in place, I did notice I can "lift" the barrel a little at the front of the stock upwards, but force in that direction should not occur during normal use so that is fine. Also I cancelled my remaining items with MidwaySweden, they are too slow, they only ship out once a week, on thursdays. Last week my order missed the shipping, this week it looked like my items were still out of stock, so I said to hell with it. The Volquartsen screw probably is not a good fit anyways, as the threads on that one look to be kinda of square, not round threads, I beleive it is to lock the screw in more securly, but on our pot metal chassi it will probably do more harm than good. Also cancelled the sling swivels (mweh, I will get them when I need them) and the scope and rings. Instread I ordered this; 1x Tasco Pronghorn 3-9x40 30-30 scope 1x Tasco 1" weaver low mount 1x Tasco 1" weaver high mount (unsure if low will work) Those will be delivered tomorrow and then the build is complete! Awesome! Actually just remembered the RA rubber is on the way and I haven't ordered the Falcon rubber yet, but judging from the results of the test fire above I doubt I need them now to begin with anyways If anyone is wondering the total build cost adds up to around 1300 USD all included (when I say all included, I mean _all_ see below). *gulp* but it was worth it, I can't think of a more sexy rifle than this Shipping added with approximate value of 200 USD, ie 1100 USD + 200 USD = 1300 USD. Also items will be varying in price from location to location, I am sure it can be had cheaper in the US for example. For instance I saw the Hogue stock for as low as 49 USD, bipod 32 USD and the Tasco scope for 59 USD, so I got kind of raped on those items, oh well Link to post Share on other sites
Doc11 Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 Some grouping test shooting today. KC02 with RA-Tech barrel and rubber. 380-390fps with ultrair. The first target at 20m is not really good, mostly my fault. I planned to shoot on target at 40m as well but the gun started to act up. It needed some maintenance. Anyway, the targets: Note: I can't seem to insert urls with thumbnails pointing to fullsize images here. And they work on every other forum I use... Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 3, 2012 Report Share Posted May 3, 2012 I would be interested to see you match my setup and see what results you get. Can you do that ? Second paper looks decent IMO ! Link to post Share on other sites
Doc11 Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Do you mean 0.36 at 7m? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 Yeah, precisely. Got my scope today, my god what a beauty ! Pics comming this weekend! Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 5, 2012 Report Share Posted May 5, 2012 Pics comming this weekend! It's the weekend - where are my pics of this gorgeous gun?! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 6, 2012 Report Share Posted May 6, 2012 Indeed it is the weekend, and here are the pics, plus a video (sloppy camerawork just to show you something...). Yeah, that's bad *albatross*! *jizz in my pants* The other side. The scope. Tasco Pronghorn 3-9x40, love that cyan lens! Reticle. One thing I noticed is that this doesn't work very well at short distances (sub 10-15 yards or so), you can't get the target image plane and the reticle plane to line up and both be in focus, but I guess that is to be expected (100 yard parallax free). If you can, get a scope with Adjustable Objective, aka Adjustable Parallax aka Parallax Adjust so you can tinker with that setting. I was unaware of this when I bought this scope, I am a scope noob, so, just be aware of that fact! Perhaps even an AO scope can't handle that short of a range. The extended mag release can sometimes be a little to helpful (ie. I have accidentally dropped mags because of it), here is Pat Rogers to explain the situation . http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUHm34hksac&feature L O L ! Mods made to the chassi. Rear tang cut off and sanded down flush. Will re-paint the rair so it doesn't show at the very top edge of the stock. Different angle and there is the RS buffer as well. Had to sand on the front tangs of the chassi as well, stupid me sanded on the bottom parts that are actually exposed when installed, don't do that! Different angle. Didn't take much work with the dremmel, just make sure the rear tang is completely gone and sanded flush before you start fitting it in with these front tangs. Just sand a little and test fit etc. until it drops in nicely. Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gHXbR0Zr6JY&feature=youtu.be Songs are Santigold - Disparete Youth and Yeah Yeah Yeahs - Hysteric (Acoustic) Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 12, 2012 Report Share Posted May 12, 2012 Allright guys, fired my rifle some more today trying to zero in the scope. Here is the deal; Tasco Pronghorn 3-9x4 parallax free at 100yards (shooting at 7m, longest distance in my appartment, so that's the baseline for now.) 1. The maximum adjustment for the scopes point of impact UP still leaves me a couple of centimeters (5cm approx) low at 7m firing. I guess this is due to it being made for an RS rifle and made to be shot at 100 yards or more, usually. How can I fix this ? The adjustments are 1/4" at 100yds. Does that translate to more or less adjustment at shorter ranges ? 2. The parallax setting is non adjustable and the eye bell focus is not adjustable enough so that I can get both reticle and target plane in focus at 7m, is there anthing that can be done or do I need to get a parallax adjust scope that can go down to 5 yards ? 3. When zooming in above the 3x the target image gets blurry and unusable at shorter distances. Guessing this relates to the parallax setting ? 4. How can I figure out if my rifle is actually shooting true ? Since it is custom build I don't know if the trajectory is in line with the rifles/barrels alignment. Mounting alternate sights might help figure it out I guess ? Or laser bore it ? I think in hindsight I should have gone with a scope that is parallax adjustable down to 5 yards. But would this fix all issues ? Or would you still be left with the problems of point of impact adjust not being enough ? Fortunatly veritcal adjustment is fine so once I know where to hold now I can still shoot good but it is slightly annoying. Any help is appreciated. Overall I love the scope, mainly because it looks bad *albatross* and the size and zoom range of it is probably a good fit for the rifle and its capabilities, but I just wish I could be more flexible down to shorter ranges. Recommendations for alternative scopes that are 3-9x40 but more adjustable for close range and/or airsoft are welcome! Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
gisburn20 Posted May 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 The main problem you have is that 3 mag is overpowered for that distance, If I use my 1.5-5x20 simmons pro diamand I can focus that close (on 1.5 mag) Scopes are not designed for 5 yards, they mostly wont focus much below 10m , and even at that distance the height of the centre of the lens above the bore usually means that the rounds will impact 2 inches below point of aim. just zero the scope roughly (out of focus) indoors, as long as the windage is correct, you can sort out the elevation on a longer range. Zeroing airsoft guns is tricky because we have hop to consider, Generally on RS when you zero the bullet is only affected by gravity and wind, bb's get lift from hop so adds another factor to correct for. Worry about windage and hop on a proper range first then sort out the elevation. If you need to shoot under 5m consider some offset iron sights or a Doctor style RDS mounted on the scope. Jim Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 Thanks for the reply, as I suspected then. I will have to live with this for now then. Perhaps get an alternate low mount red dot scope as an alternate sight for indoor close range shooting! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 17, 2012 Report Share Posted May 17, 2012 Sooo. I shot my KC-02 some more today, great fun! However, I ran into some issues. Suddenly it wouldn't feed the last round in, the bolt semi-locked back and the last BB did not feed into the chamber. Tried a couple different magazines. Put in a fully loaded one, and after first shot the bolt locked back... Trying to clear the rifle I noticed the bolt was locked back and wouldn't go forward at all. Took it appart and noticed that both the bolt catch plate and the slot where the bolt catch goes in the bolt was deformed. It had been enlarged and dented (like the parts had been jammed together with alot of force) somehow so no matter what the bolt could not freely feed forward. Took the stuff appart and filed down the damage on the bolt and trimmed the bolt catch and it works again. Strange though, no idea why that would have happened. And let me tell you puttin the bolt catch and spring back in place was a PITA! Anyways, here are some pics of the targets : Actually it is 100 / 100 , I incorrectly marked the outer hit as a 9. 10 ring is 5cm in diamater, approx 2". Bottom left was first out, then top left, then top right and lastly bottom right. Damn good shootin if I may say so myself. The X markings is where I had to aim to hit center, this is because the scope I use isn't exactly made for these short distances so I have to adjust "manually". 10 ring is 3.5cm, approx 1.4". I came to notice how nice the trigger on this thing is. Partly because with the Hogue stock your hand gets into a position in which you can't really move it much, all you can do is squeeze the trigger and get off a near perfect shot. Love it! As previously discussed here are some pics of the Hogue stock damage from my botched internals install at the beginning of the project: Crack in the polymer on the inside. Crack on the other side. Faint mark can be seen on the outside of the stock from one of the cracks. Just at certain angles. I absolutely love this rifle! Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Hurr durr. Shot some more today and was still having issues. Got misfeeds and bolt/nozzle jams. The bolt catch plate had buckled/bent and was jamming the bolt against it and the inner chassi. Took it out and straightened it out, bolt cycled fine. Shot some more, not 2 mags later same problem. I guess the theory is that due to the RS acrylic buffer the bolt is bouncing forward with more force, I guess acrylic gives more bounce than a metal pin does ? Causing the bolt catch plate to bend under stress. I think I will order 2 more plates from KJW just to make sure I don't have a dud here but it seems strange. Took the bolt catch out and it fires fine. But no lock back sucks big time so that is not acceptable in the long run. Anyone have any experience or input on this ? Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 20, 2012 Report Share Posted May 20, 2012 Just figured something else. Since I had to expand the holes in the chassi by about 1mm in diameter to fit the RS buffer, the space that the bolt lock plate has to operate in has decreased by the same amount. Meaning it might not have time to get fully in the lock position, making it get caught on the wrong point on the bolt, thus deforming it. So I could try to cut off 0.5-1mm lenght on it as well. Link to post Share on other sites
Kalashnikov_kid Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Finished my 10/22 M2 conversion. Used an old Marushin M2 stock and a dremel. Looks good enough for me Ta Link to post Share on other sites
BigBabyMoses06 Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Anybody think about using this? http://www.midwayusa.com/product/730506/boyds-tacticool-rifle-stock-ruger-10-22-920-barrel-channel-unfinished-laminate Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 You want to finish it yourself? Sounds like a lot of work. Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Is that comment what I think it is, or was it serious ? Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted June 8, 2012 Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 You know when they say "finish" they just mean "varnish" right? Link to post Share on other sites
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