renegadecow Posted March 20, 2014 Report Share Posted March 20, 2014 Just as a quick way to tell/fix the mag, you can invert the main o-ring on the valve. In time (especially with disuse) they can take the shape of the valve increasing surface area making it harder to open. You can simply flip the o-ring around so the fresher under side will be in use. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvp69 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 got it working it was a crack in the trigger box that i did not see haha Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 You may want to read up on the previous page then. There's a video on how to reinforce the trigger casing with epoxy, and there's my method of cushioning the hammer. Since you have RATech parts on, you may want to inspect if the hammer is actually touching the casing (where it commonly breaks) and file the hammer as necessary so that it shouldn't. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvp69 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 yea I will when im on my third box I have 2 spare new ones Quote Link to post Share on other sites
rvp69 Posted March 23, 2014 Report Share Posted March 23, 2014 and yea I had to file the base of the trigger to make it work because it was too tight problem I have now is the firing pin return spring mine is stuffed I will have to get a new one or bodgy one out of my many AEG spring sets I have Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 I've been playing with the idea of getting one of these for a while. As far as I can see so far, the ratech steel parts are a bit pants, hmm? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted March 25, 2014 Report Share Posted March 25, 2014 They need some work to keep from ruining the trigger casing. Otherwise check the previous page if you want to give my stock parts reinforcement a try. From the looks of things, you won't be needing a steel overhaul at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 (edited) Renegade, I was wondering what you did to secure the spring on your recoil buffer. I see that you bolted yours on, so I thinking maybe you either tapped behind the recoil buffer, but to what extent? Or did you just drill through and used a nut to secure the bolt? I was impatient so I set my spring on the based and soldered it on just to try is out. It's working alright but it doesn't look as nice as the one you made. Could you post more perspectives? Maybe a third-angle projection? Edited April 3, 2014 by NightFury Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 3, 2014 Report Share Posted April 3, 2014 The plate is new. The end of the spring has a reduced diameter to slot an M3 screw through and the screw is threaded directly on the plate. I ground the other end of the spring flat, but after only 200 or so rounds I noticed it was stating to dig into the bolt carrier so I glued a patch of rubber on the spring to protect the bolt from further damage (not in picture). Might be why the FG version has two springs to increase surface area. I'll take pics of the rof booster tomorrow with dimensions when there's better lighting and provide dimensions as well. I can't disassemble it though as the rubber patch I glued on blocks the way to the screw head. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 The plate outer dimensions are identical to the original and is 2mm thick. From the screw at the top that holds it to the cover latch the M3 screw holding the spring is exactly 7.5mm below it (center to center) which makes the M3 screw come into contact at the very bottom edge of the hole where the original plunger goes into. The spring is a VSR-10 M130. Using 6 coils the bolt is able to make full travel as it compresses the spring a bit but there's room for around 2 more coils before the bolt catch/selector can't engage the bolt anymore. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Thanks a bunch. Time to get started on mine. I have an m145 vsr spring. I'll see how that works out for me. As far as wear and tear, how is yours holding up as of late? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 6, 2014 Report Share Posted April 6, 2014 Other than having to pad the VSR spring and reattaching the rubber strip on the hammer (was picking on it like a scab so my fault) everytings doing fine. Just got extra mags for it and got me over 1k rounds today. Maybe an extra 1-200 if you include dry firing. A couple of the mags had the lever that lifted the valve knocker a bit sticky so I had to round out the detent making it easier to flick. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 Fun times with a chronograph. I realized I had previously taken the 600RPM number on a near empty can/magazine. Got a new can of gas and here's what I got: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 I picked up a second hand AKSU the other day, and true to form after one or two mags the hammer broke, though around the axle this time, not the usual place. Dropped a haesphestus hammer set in there and it fit like a dream. Doesn't catch on the trigger box either, as far as i can tell. I plan on getting a lct ak104 front-end and a we pmc barrel and making myself a GBB ak104 with a full bolt travel. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 25, 2014 Report Share Posted April 25, 2014 (edited) Does sound a bit odd and I assume that's without buffering the hammer? Makes me wish I bought a backup set myself when they were on sale at EHobby. Edited April 25, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 That was without the hammer buffer. I assume the previous owner gave the gun a bit of a hammering. Right now my concern is getting the power down to a reasonable level. With a Madbull 6.03 and a PDI w-hold its doing 1.7j, which is just a tad hot for CQB, even in Hong Kong. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted April 26, 2014 Report Share Posted April 26, 2014 Just put a restrictor disc in the nozzle. Some use AEG shims but I make them out of polycarbonate. I've got one in mine which is why it's tamed to under 1.4J with a 3mm hole on the disc I think. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 For the shim, I assume you place them in the rocket valve or at the inside of the nozzle? For me, I ended up getting a spare rocket valve from another TM GBB pistol which puts it at 1.1J. Unfortunately, it works amazingly in semi auto, lovely and consistent, but in full auto the consistency goes to pot and the thing spits bbs every which way. I dunno if that's the valve being off-spec or the hop-up rubber or barrel moving in full auto. That being said, it's got a big intimidation factor in CQB! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted May 6, 2014 Report Share Posted May 6, 2014 Inside the nozzle, forward the floating valve and its spring. I haven't had the opportunity to shoot things far using full-auto but I see a consistent .3J drop while testing on my chrono which would undoubtedly affect hop up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 (edited) Bit of a downer update for the interested, my gun broke today, well, sort of broke. After roughly 3,000 rounds of having zero malfunctions, the bolt seized on me mid game. When I got back home to sort it out, I found that the disconnector on the trigger had broken making me lose semi-auto functionality. It still works fine with full-auto but I think it's time for me to call this little science experiment over and do the mandatory steel overhaul. My hammer remains intact though despite two cracks observed on other areas except where the hammer is most commonly known to break. All in all, not too bad considering it's lasted me six months now. My only problem is that there's something wrong going on with the local post making all parcels arrive two months late. Edited July 27, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 That's a shame...if anyone was going to make it it work it'd be RC! Ah well, what's the best steel kit? Someone mentioned Hephaestus? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Hephaestus. Will be ordering a set in the morning. Technically I can still use the gun on full-auto and find out how long before the hammer does break. I could also try and repair the disconnector with the Lumiweld I got earlier. But for what it's been worth I think the stock parts have provided me more than enough fun and view the steel replacements as more of an upgrade than a fix. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Better than good old RA-TECH then? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 From 3vi1-D4n's experience the Hephaestus kit is a true drop-in kit whereas the RATech needs modifying to fit, and if done incorrectly, can lead to damaging the trigger housing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 That seems to be a common theme with RATECH parts...how pricey is the Hephaestus one? Seems like a no brainer anyway Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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