renegadecow Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Seeing it between $73 to $77 in most stores. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stuey Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 Oh, sweet. Well I'm sure you'll keep us updated with any progress you make, the WE AK is back on my shortlist at any rate. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted July 27, 2014 Report Share Posted July 27, 2014 That seems to be a common theme with RATECH parts...how pricey is the Hephaestus one? Seems like a no brainer anyway Interesting I found some discrepancy with one of the latest hephateastus install I did they milled the trigger incorrectly so the semi-auto sear didn't fit in. The other thing was the hammer only engaged the trigger sear on one side. Other installs didn't have these issues. Wondering if others had similar issues? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted July 28, 2014 Report Share Posted July 28, 2014 (edited) Looks like their tooling has either worn or drifted from the CAD files being CNC and all. Interesting thing though, AKMs and 74s only have the hammer engage the trigger on the left side unlike the original two sided 47. The right side is merely a rate reducer and on AKS74Us the reducer is removed. Edited July 28, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Just got the Hephaestus parts in my gun. While installation was pretty much a drop in fit, the selector lever was very tight so much so that it could no longer be manipulated by the index finger. I didn't think much of it until I put the bolt on. It was seizing towards the end of the stroke and after close inspection the lever had high spots on it which made contact with the bolt. It was also pinching the receiver a bit, causing the stiffness but was also adding extra friction to the bolt. I filed the two spots down to match the original part and everything went smoothly after. While I was in there I went ahead and reinforced the trigger casing with epoxy although it wasn't showing any wear and the steel hammer had the same clearance as the stock part. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 (edited) I really need to stop coming into this thread. Straight after leaving I start looking at WE AK prices, it's all about that full bolt travel. Just looks so good and I keep seeing Nic Cage in Lord of War (in my head if course), playing about with a 47. Pure sex. Edited August 22, 2014 by Habakure Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 On the flip side though I'm now seriously considering in getting real steel optics for mine due to the gratuitous amounts of recoil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted August 22, 2014 Report Share Posted August 22, 2014 Has anyone seen the Hephaestus steel set in stock anywhere? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 Got mine from Redwolf and it looks like they still have them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) Just another, although minor issue with the set I just put in. Now that I got to shoot it, it seems the valve knocker doesn't get raised as high when the magazine follower tips it on empty. What happens is the valve still gets struck only lightly so the nozzle sputters gas like a wet fart. Comical at best, but I decided to sort it out by gluing a spacer on the part under the knocker so it gets pushed up fully. Edited August 23, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 23, 2014 Report Share Posted August 23, 2014 (edited) One last problem that just started to come up, the hammer started riding the bolt on full auto. While I couldn't measure it I'm sure it affects gas efficiency even if just a bit as the hammer would open the valve before the nozzle is fully seated against the mag gas router. Looking at the auto sear it was slightly off compared to the stock part. It had slightly more material where it met the hammer, affecting the angle in which it interfaced with it. As it was, the hammer was able to push the sear out when grease was applied though I'm not entirely sure if that really was the cause as it was functioning properly when dry. A minute with a file correcting the sear angle sorted it out and everything is back to normal again. Edited August 23, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted August 26, 2014 Report Share Posted August 26, 2014 If anyone's interested I took some photos when reinforcing my trigger casing. Clean and degrease the entire trigger casing with acetone. Epoxy used was steel filled. I used rolled up cardboard covered in scotch tape to fill in areas I don't want the epoxy to go. Lightly scratching up the surfaces to be filled also helps with adhesion. Then I mixed the epoxy and gooped it on putting some pressure so it squeezes through the small gaps like under the hammer and between the hammer and valve knocker. When it's set after a few minutes you simply yank out the cardboard and clean off excess epoxy with a sharp knife. Be careful not to put too much pressure as it doesn't cure fully until 24 hours. It can be a little rough on the outside, doesn't matter, but the inside shouldn't need any cleanup at all. 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 I recently bought one of these used, with a RA-Tech trigger set already installed. I fiddled about with it, and everything seemed fine. However, when I used it in a game on Saturday, the semi-auto wouldn't work. I pulled the trigger, and nothing would happen (hammer did not drop). It appears to work fine in full-auto, but semi-auto is completely unresponsive. Any ideas on what it might be? (I'm planning on taking a more detailed look at it this evening, but since I didn't do the install of the trigger set, I haven't had any experience with taking the internals apart and putting them back together). Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Yeah. Your selector plate is probably out of alignment internally and locking up the sear. I had to loosen a screw on my selector inside the reciever and re-alignt it and then tighten the screw. Open the top cover and see what's happening when you flip the selector and it should be fairly obvious if that is it. No need to take any of the trigger assembly out or appart, just loosen screw and re-align. Edited September 8, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danr Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Strangely enough, when I pulled it out of the case just not, it worked a lot better. I realigned the selector like you suggested (it must have been a miniscule amount, since there didn't seem to be that much play between the selector lever and internal bit). After I did that, the problem happened once more after a few test cycles, and I haven't been able to replicate it since Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 It's not so much that there is play as it has been locked into place out of alignment. I can't say for sure that is your issue but sounds similar. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Just hit the 30K mark. Not bad for a stock GBBR. All I did was Renegade's hammer buffer modification. My trigger group and bolt carrier has minor wear, though it seems to only be the finish scratching off. Steel sets might not even be necessary of this anymore. Runs like a real AK haha. My hop up wheel is lose though, keeps getting turned off by the recoil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Glad yours fared better than mine. While my semi auto disconnector broke, the hammer was still working fine when I replaced everything with a steel set. But after observation I found the hammer being torn apart in two separate places and who knows how much longer that could have lasted. Though mine was bought new from old stock so I wouldn't have had factory reinforced parts if any were made in succeeding productions. Best thing though is that I've not had a single misfeed all this time and the only time it malfunctioned was when the broken piece from the disconnector lodged itself under the hammer and seized the gun until removed. Edited September 9, 2014 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I bought mine around early Feb. of this year. I wasn't even aware WE went back an put reinforced parts in later production runs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 They make changes as the guinea pigs start to complain. They can be as simple as changing the metallurgical mix of a certain part to increase durability to changing its design altogether like their different generation stanag mags. Mine was stocked sometime 2011 putting it in the fresher batches when not just hammers broke. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NightFury Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I see, maybe that's why we haven't heard of any issues with the MP5. They must have figured that the alloy they made for the AK trigger set in the batch mine came from was perfect for an out of the box GBBR and ran with it for their MP5s. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Stupid question, but can someone tell me what the correct settings are for the magazine latches to make it stop firing on empty? I don't remember where I put my manual. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 The dry fire switch? It has to be forwards. To activate, hold the lever at the back down then pull the lever at the top back to lock it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Well yeah but I don't want to dry fire it. I want it to stop shooting when I am out of BBs. So what position do they need to be in then ? Sorry maybe that's what you're telling me, might of missunderstood. OK, so levers towards rear/bottom, stop on emtpy. That would mean lever towards front / top means dry firing. Edited September 9, 2014 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Just keep the one on top forwards. And when loading a fresh mag, the rear lever should be flicked down or the gun will just go click (as if it were empty). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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