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WE AKS-74UN First Impressions (Pic heavy)

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Last weekend I finally have some free time to check the part compatibility between WE and WELL AK. I ordered few steel parts to make a G74A rock solid. Here are the results, I will upload photos later. Here the part list:

- WE AK47UN nozzle

- WE trigger box (main box, without side plate)

- WE steel valve-knocker delayer

- WiiTech steel auto-sear

- WiiTech steel valve knocker lever

- WiiTech steel internal firing switch

- Maple Leaf 470mm long inner barrel

- Modify TAN hopup rubber

 

- WE AK74UN nozzle

The sizes seems to be same. The used material is a bit different, WE used a shinny black plastic and WELL used matt finish, half gray-black plastic. The WE was perfectly drop-in fit without any modification. In my preferenc, I more liked the used o-ring on WELL because it will resist for CO2 gas more. I added a new nozzle spring which was made in a local workshop - reinforced and redesigned spring.

 

- WE trigger box

The sizes is a bit different. As I saw and measured the WELL trigger box has wider walls, for example next to the hammer (which often break after time). The cutted windows are different on WELL because it has a bit bigger cuts. One important difference between WELL and WE which is a screw under the pistol grip - the WELL trigger box more solid, it haven't any free movement. The side plate was clearly same size but the valve delayer's cut is smaller on WELL.

 

- WE steel valve-knocker delayer

It was really great part. Made from steel, has a good and smooth surface finish - chemical bluish with brown color. The machining is really clear and nice. Sadly it wasn't drop in fit to WELL but it was in WE. There is a side wing on the parts which seat on a spring. That wing was wider by 0.45mm, I needed to file it down to make it fit and move smoothly in its slug.

 

- WiiTech auto-sear

The parts was machined from one solid steel block. The mashining and the surface finish was really nice, high quality. Painted to shinny black color. The auto-sear has a "tonque" on the left side (check WT's page) and that is why it can move really easier and smoothly in WE trigger box but it won't in WELL - because it has wider wall thickness. I needed to file down the left side of WT's auto-sear. The part has little contact surface with the hammer that is why it is more easy to disconnect from the hammer - good design, I liked it. For this price, it is worth of money with WT hammer I think, it is cheaper as WE or RAT.

 

- WiiTech steel valve knocker lever

The parts was machined from one solid steel block. The mashining and the surface finish was really nice, high quality. Painted to shinny black color. It was drop-in fit to WE and WELL trigger box too. It won't never break appart and it is one of most cheaper parts as reinforcement (10$, compare it with WE or RAT which more expensive...).

 

- WiiTech steel internal firing switch

The parts was machined from one solid steel block. The mashining and the surface finish was really nice, high quality. Painted to shinny black color. It was drop-in fit to WE and won't drop in fit to WELL trigger box. I needed to file down few 0.1mm with file, it took around 2-3 minutes with continous fitting test. The used tread was clear and nice - sadly I can not unscrew the WELL's screw because they used a lot screw-glue, need to drill a bit.

 

- Maple Leaf 470mm long inner barrel & Modify TAN rubber.

Because we will convert this G74A to an OTs-14, we replaced the inner barrel and we placed a long inner barrel which we will cover by a silencer dummy. Hopefully the WELL G74A's has the old hopup system which is compatible with the Marui standard. I filed the inner barrel a bit to make the hopup rubber window more bigger. I replaced the stock small rubber nub and added a Modify TAN rubber which prevent the leaking and double-feeding issues.

 

 

At this moment we do the preparation with the CNC-workshop to make the OTs-14 conversion kits with the modern technologies and make the cost low and the quality better. At this time we're working on hard to finish the current order and make few modification on the design - for example, we solved the trigger bar connection between the front and rear trigger, added a rail to the carry handle, etc, etc. At this moment they sold to few places - like USA, Taiwan, France, Italy, Hungary, etc.

 

Here is a short video about how it looks like with all equipted accessories: https://www.facebook.com/gbbhungary/videos/786777238159833/

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Extremely useful information, thanks!  And congrats on that OTs-14, it's looking better every day. Really hope I can afford one soon.

 

I replaced the stock small rubber nub and added a Modify TAN rubber which prevent the leaking and double-feeding issues.

If possible, try a Maple Leaf Autobot, they are leaps better than Modify's.

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Welcome, I will upload the photos too but at this moment I work really hard - 12-14 hours a day, I'm a bit busy at this moment.

 

Thanks for the suggestion but I already tried it. In my past I tried a lot hopup rubber in one race-pistol and with a WE G39c (Lonex, KM RH45, KM RH55, NineBall, MadBull, Modify, Marui, ML Diamond, RAT white, RAT old-red, RAT new-red, AIP, ML Autobot, KJ) I got the best performance with Modify. Sadly that time I didn't made any video about which how performed. At this moment I have the following preference: Modify, RH45, RH55, Marui. The ML Autobot rubber damaged after 100-120 shoots in my pistol.

Edited by Batmause

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Can someone post up info on what has to be done to make WELL AK74 mags work in WE AK74 ? :o

Like, pictures maybe and what material is required.

 

Or is that up to me now after you have provided so much awesome information ? :D

 

I got mine this week from AsiaAirsoft.

 

EDIT: Sorry, made a "Sturm". RC had already posted here: http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/199502-we-aks-74un-first-impressions-pic-heavy/page-34&do=findComment&comment=2764980

 

Thanks!

Edited by NonEx

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Just got my g74u and got a bit confused. I don't really get how to remove the muzzledevice? I thought the little pin was springloaded but it just won't budge.

c3c6a3778f11eec8e0c955551e84b848.jpg

Also thought of replacing the stock but the pin holding the stock cannot be knocked out and has no screw head

 

e6d62b5c6e3a22cf87335e358b6fea88.jpg

 

22dad15eeded38c6c681963662ab9ea9.jpg

 

Anyone got any ideas or Better yet a takedown video?

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Thanks but that is not how mine is responding. It was jammed tight / manufacturing error perhaps?

 

Just broke the alu front sight trying to force the pin back there were no spring behind the pin :(

 

2054a86464922ee3192565a0e18b3933.jpg

 

Well I guess you get what you pay for

Maybe this is not the best platform to build from

 

Anyone has any ideas over the stock?

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Should have, thought I would then a little devil on my left shoulder said;

 

"You might be able to wiggle it out with a little force"

 

Cutting a steel pin also may have required a steel saw which I did not have / anyhow...

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Dang, hate when those things happen "Just a liiiiitle bit more force and it will come loose *craaaack*... fffuuuuu" :(

 

How the heck do they get the pin locked in there if there is no spring under it? Molded part? lol :P

 

Aaah right. I guess you can't remove the muzzle break by itself then on this design. They cut corners in the finesse of the design implementation.

 

Those things are very good to know so you don't break stuff.

 

That stock hinge is a bit more worrying though. Has to be possible to remove?

Edited by NonEx

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It is quite a mystery

Now I need a new front sight I wonder where I can find one?

 

I think I got a bit discouraged from trying to remove the folding stock.

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Just got my g74u and got a bit confused. I don't really get how to remove the muzzledevice? I thought the little pin was springloaded but it just won't budge.

c3c6a3778f11eec8e0c955551e84b848.jpg

Also thought of replacing the stock but the pin holding the stock cannot be knocked out and has no screw head

Be carefull, it isn't spring loaded as the WE, painted with the gasblock - and that is why it is often not able to take appart!

 

Update: I saw I'm in late. :( We have few stock gas block with flashhider on stock from our OTs-14 builds. I will ask my colleague about how much to send it to you.

Update2: About this stock pin, just punch it out. Sometimes it is really hard to get it out.

Update3: I can confirm, I have 1 piece and my colleague have 3 pieces on stock from OTs-14 conversion. ;) Send me a PM!

Edited by Batmause
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- cracked front sight block -

Today I checked this parts because I got a request from Cesare to send it to him. So, the pin is locked by a screw, take appart the front set, take out the screw and you can swap the compensator. The thread-adaptor is made from steel but it looks like glued on the front sight thread - if it has.

Edited by Batmause

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Just fitted it with some RS parts which required some modifications.

 

The RS stock had a completely different size of pin and hinges. The plum grip was drop in fit, handguards was a b-*tch to fit. The front muzzle device did not fit so must get a ring or remake the threads.

 

477457d291b321e1f0c51dd7be06cfd4.jpg

 

Also got a little Russian carry bag and oiler/cleaning set.

 

Next up might be a scope

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I got a photo from a happy customer, from Taiwan. I'm really proud to see this. (I'm sorry if I make you bored with my Groza-flame)

Finished OTs-14 from WE AK74UN, Taiwan


Edited by Batmause
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Has anyone here tried checking if AEG receivers can be used to assemble a rifle? I'm trawling through LCT and E&L photos and only now just realized how freakishly close they are by design down to the cutouts on the bolt guide rails.el-airsoft-body.jpg

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Thanks! What was the hardest thing to do? What I'm figuring is if it's worth modifying just the receiver to fit WE internals rather than build a gun around a complete WE receiver but having to modify a lot of small things everywhere else.

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Somebody in the local community had tried with several AEG brands, but iirc LCT was one that he couldn't get it to work, because of alignment issues. I'll try to reach and ask him , as forum in which he made the post about it is currently offline.

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Because you need to file the bolt carrier a lot to let it move smoothly in the receiver. :( If you want, I can take few photo about the results - but currently the bolt carrier stack in the receiver really often, even a few days of filing.

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Pictures of the modified bolt carrier would be great! If it's just the width that needs reduction the most I could sort that out with an angle grinder with a sanding disc pretty quick.

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Man, E&L externals and (upgraded) WE internals would be my dream come true. If ever I happen to disassemble an E&L, I'll certainly try and see. 

Edited by Dimitri MdP

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