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WE AKS-74UN First Impressions (Pic heavy)


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There doesn't seem to be its own thread for the PMC, but it's worth puting here- 
I've been running a PMC for a little while and it's pretty nice- the only real mods I'm thinking of doing are replacing the receiver and stock with one from an AK74UN (turns out you can order the parts directly from WE, costs about $150), and adding a real steel AK105 style gas block. Apparently this needs lathe work, anyone done this as of yet?

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This one was a WELL G74A. This project was crazy flustrating but finally finished - and fully working.  

Here is my 74UN. Had to mod the little metal piece that came with the Zenit stock, as it doesnt align with the hole on the WE receiver and also it was a little long.     Internals Orga Magnus 6.32mm

#grabpopcorn #lovethisfight #stubbornvsstubborn #clashofthetitans   Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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You could instead get a Romanian Stock on the PMC and save the whole folding stock/receiver swap unless you specifically want an AK105.

 

Mine has a Woodkit and a AKM steel gas tube on it.

 

I am unsure if the AKS74U barrel trunnion is compatible with the AKM barrel set.  They are actually different.

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It was an LCT AKM tube, requires a little dremelling.

 

The Romanian stock can be a bit light making the AK a bit more front heavy than usual, I used a real one in and out of vehicles.  Because it doesn't have a natural cheek contact position, lining up the sight is a little more effort, but makes up for it being compact, though shooting with the stock folded inside a car is a sure way of getting hit in the face with an AK.  My mates added a padded foam tube around the stock so it became the cheek piece without getting in the way of the ejection port.  And another thing with the real romanian stock, is that the wire spring buffers the recoil which makes it all that much better to fire.

 

The airsoft one, lol haven't used one.

Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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  • 1 month later...

Just got a WE AK 74UN RA Tech LVL 1 Custom and just dry-fired my first magazine... I like it!

 

Love the sound of racking and releasing the bolt, real "AK-ish", and the RoF in full auto sounds like an AK too me, maybe a tad too slow?

 

The select lever is a bit iffy, both to get in the right position and for it to stay there, had it slip down to single during full auto fire. Will have to test some more, and read thru this entire thread :D

 

All in all, it's a rock solid and cool GBBR. Time will tell how it holds up.

 

The RA Tech parts in it are;

 

• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC trigger
• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC hammer
• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC sear
• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC firing pin
• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC valve knocker
• RA Tech WE AK steel CNC inner select lever
• RA Tech precision inner barrel 6.01 250MM
• RA Tech hop up rubber
• RA Tech NPAS

 

So hopefully I don't have any breakage of internal parts.

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Anyone got a link to a take down guide or something like that?

 

My RA Tech internals have a slight issue with the internal selector being offset to the external selector. So in order for it to engage in full auto mode the external selector jumps down out of it's notch.

 

No idea how to take this appart a all I see are rivets and pins ? :o

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Just wanted to follow up with my initial impressions of this gun.

 

I digg it. This is my first AK and I like it alot more than I would have thought. Feels real nice to shouled and look down the sights. In COD3 for example the AK is one of my favourites for the clear and crisp sight picture down the iron sights and that feeling stayed true even on this airsoft replica.

Pistol grip is also suprisingly nice and "ergonomic", not what I had expected.

The polymer futniture feels really nice, solid yet velvety.

 

Some of the cons include the insanely finicky magazine insertion, guess it takes practise.

As mentioned the selector lever on my RA Custom is offset from the outer selector to the inner, causing the full auto to be slightly miss-aligned and going down to semi while firing. Have to look into that.

The selector lever isn't exactly the best or most positive to get into place, but again I guess it just takes practise on this new platform. But it can't compete with the positive clicks of an AR selector lever.

The steel folding stock wasn't exactly pleasant on the face so I wrapped it with some paracord and that was sorted.

Trigger and break are a littly mushy, but acceptable.

 

As for the shooting experience. I have dry fired 3 magazines now, and it is a joy to shoot. Initially I thought the RoF on full-auto was good but yeah, as concluded it seems a bit slow. Not bugging me much.

Recoil is crazy, probably most noticable of all GBBRs I've had (WE G39C, WE M4 CQBR, WE HK416 and the WE PDW). Kicks like a mule.

I shot two magazines on Top Gas (140 PSI) and one mag on Guarder 220PSI gas. Holy mother the 220 PSI was fun :D

Given that I have RA steel internals I might just go for the 220 PSI gas to be honest. What a blast!

 

All in all, I think this was a good buy. If nothing else for just the satisfaction of the classic AK sound when racking the bolt :D

 

Any specific requirements or advice for maintaining the steel on this gun ?

Edited by NonEx
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The selector issue is because the RA-Tech parts are not well made.
The selector paddle is sloppy due to the 'mickey mouse' hole they made for the selector arm to go into. The original is quite crisp, just obviously breaks.
The sear is also shorter than the stock WE one.

As for the steel, oil it regularly.
My flash hider started rusting over after my first skirmish despite oiling, looked rad though.

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What kind of oil do I use ?

Does regular silicone oil work?

 

Do you know of the fix for the internal / external selector miss-match ?

 

EDIT: Think I got it. Studied the parts a bit and just loosened the selector lever grub screw, re-aligned the internal selector (tappet-plate?) and fastened the screw again, now it appears to function much better. Also bent the selector arm slightly to make it go into place more securely.

 

WIN!

Edited by NonEx
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I did some dry firing indoors with mine but with Guarder 200PSI gas and it certainly appears to be able to handle 30-40 rounds on full auto. Not sure how it goes with regular 140 PSI TopGas, might just be able to in decent temps.

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I used to sqeeze a full mag on full auto using Coleman propane. The stock internals are very weak, so sooner or later you will have to upgrade to rat steel parts (which are not worth the price asked).

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  • 2 weeks later...

So I accidentally dropped my magazine today, and suprise suprise the screw mount at the bottom shattered in pieces leaving the magazine half-appart.

Doesn't have enough retention to keep the internals inside the shell.

 

Anyone got any solutions for this ? :o

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  • 7 months later...

Bit of a necro but I don't suppose anyone's tried reinforcing their guns by adding a buffer between the bolt and hammer? I just got my AK to eventually turn into a Groza-4 and while studying it I've come to the conclusion that virtually all encountered problems root to how hard the bolt strikes the hammer. I've tried installing a strip of foam rubber on mine (still prepared to spend for the stel kit though) and am willing to bet it should answer everything, even the part about the trigger case breaking. I plan on changing it to sorbothane later on if the foam rubber has seen enough abuse.

Edited by renegadecow
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Kind of on topic yet off topic.

 

I have the AK out in my couch and just play with it a little bit and I am still amazed at how much I like the AK platform compared to what I thought I would think of it.

It's really nice and intuitive. although there are some dissadvantages. But I don't see the AR platform as that much better compared to the AK. :o

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There goes the foam rubber. In an effort to characterize the nature of the impacting forces, the little reinforcement looks like it was cut cleanly in half with a knife and at the exact point where all hammers seem to break. I need to find a more suitable buffer material to continue this little theory of mine.

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And while looking around I found this:

Pretty neat fix for the trigger box. Could also work as a preventive measure if done even before it gives.

 

edit:

Before I dive into steel parts, I'm led to believe that the hammer is making contact with the part of the trigger box that breaks off (from being slightly out of spec)? Wouldn't filing the hammer or the circular cut on the trigger box alleviate pressure applied to it from the hammer thus keeping it intact? 

Edited by renegadecow
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