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WE AKS-74UN First Impressions (Pic heavy)

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  • 1 month later...
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This one was a WELL G74A. This project was crazy flustrating but finally finished - and fully working.  

Here is my 74UN. Had to mod the little metal piece that came with the Zenit stock, as it doesnt align with the hole on the WE receiver and also it was a little long.     Internals Orga Magnus 6.32mm

I bought a complete WE AK74UN too. Prepare to a comparision video, WELL vs WE. 

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I just shot my WE AK 74 with Guarders 220PSI gas. Since I got steel internals I figured why not.


Mother of god, what a beast that thing is!


And so much fun!


Put a red dot on it yesterday. I didn't get it exactly dialed in but close enough. The sound and recoil of that thing, wow wow!


I think I've said this before but I really looked down on the AK platform before since it's so, uhh, crude. But I really like everything about it. Feels really nice. I thought it would be heavier than it feels, but no problem really. I guess the two things that are kind of awkward is magazine loading and the fire selector to full-auto. But that's a training issue I guess.

Just the sound of racking the bolt on the "full travel" WE AK. "ca-cha-cra-clack" :D

Edited by NonEx
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I finished my AK105 conversion, the barrel was a complete bugger to resize without a lathe but from the outside its all pretty enough.


I made it so that I can swap lct furniture on as I like as they make the most variations. Only problem is the lack of pistol grip options as I cannot buy real steel too easily in HK.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I've come across another issue with the Hephaestus steel kit. After doing my routine general inspection I came across unusual wear on the bolt carrier. It was only at a specific spot and had some kind of ridged pattern which I matched to an area on the hammer.



I didn't take notice before as the machine marks weren't all that sharp to the touch and dismissed them to be ok which turned out to be quite the opposite. I looked into another set on a different AK and the machine marks were consistent being CNC'd so essentially should be present on all manufactured kits. I filed the ridges down then sanded and polished the contacting surface while rounding the edges a bit which should put a stop to the wear. As you can see on the bottom part of the carrier, hardly any wear is observed at all with only paint coming off which coincides with the very smooth top part of the unaltered hammer.

Edited by renegadecow
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I found the problem.


Hard to explain.  Normally the semi-auto sear on semi auto is brought forward by the trigger action, on the first part of the blowback cycle, the hammer is pushed backwards and hits the semi-auto sear,displaces it backwards and allows the hammer to slide underneath.


The steel semi-auto sear unfortunately is hit hard by the hammer, but the shape of the semi-auto sear does not allow the hammer to push it backwards easily, which means the bolt at those points of travel in contact with the hammer will incur more wear due to this issue.  All it is required is to reshape the semi-auto sear to allow the hammer to displace it.


To demonstrate this problem, set the gun on semi, pull trigger all the way back, the hammer will fall, pull the back slowly backwards until you see the hammer hit the semi-auto sear.  Note how difficult it is to push the hammer back at that point.  It takes a bit more force to push the hammer below the semi-auto sear.


Example of what is wrong:  This is the hephaestus Semi auto sear. I have used the GHK example, which demonstrates the issue:




RA tech one is even worse, note the lack of curve:






This is the shape of a real one note how rounded the curvature is:



Edited by 3vi1-D4n
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  • 4 months later...

I finally got my hands on my PK-01V aaaaand the damn thing is too damn loose on the side mount! Can't blame the optic really as it seems the rail by WE is the one grossly out of spec. While I was able to tighten an ACM side mount for my knockoff Z-Point, the PK-01V has a limit of how much it can be adjusted and it just isn't enough. Since replacing the side mount and re-riveting it is out of the question, I'll have to devise a spacer on the optic in the morning.

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Somehow that really doesn't surprise me, noticed quite a few things have been a bit off on my 74UN & on my wife's G39 WE couldn't even get the side rails to spec.  We ordered $10 set from China on Ebay & I fully expect them to be more accurate.



After all this time WE still can't seem to manage to quite get it all right. 

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More the range of adjustment. PK-As use the same friction lock like most side rail adapters and can be tightened as needed. The PK-01V has a limit because of the center piece which is another lock on top of the usual friction lock. Either way, the shim was much needed at any rate as it also corrected the centeredness of the optic relative to the irons as it was slightly off to the left.

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Here is my 74UN. Had to mod the little metal piece that came with the Zenit stock, as it doesnt align with the hole on the WE receiver and also it was a little long.


Orga Magnus 6.32mm Inner Barrel, custom cut to 8.5inches
PDI W Hold Hop Up
FG Airsoft Speed buffer
Asura Dynamics B11 Lower Rail
Asura Dynamics PT1 Stock
BCM Fore Grip
Madbull Ferfrans CRD
CYMA Side rail (had to sand it down as my EoTech wouldnt mount on it! Will have to spray it black)
Still need wood upper handguard and then it's complete! And yes, missing front sight :( Need to find a new one that ships to Canada without costing an arm and leg :l
Edited by cav.
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Recoil buffer/rate booster update:

After messing around with different materials to use after ditching my FG style metallic spring buffer, I've come across with two best options and in different rates to boot.


Natural rubber (white eraser)


-I came across this idea interestingly enough from a video on YouTube teaching how to increase the ROF on a real full size Uzi from 500rpm to 600rpm. And I figured what works for an Uzi must certainly work for an AK. Simply cut a rectangle to fill in the back plate on the dust cover latch and super glue it on. I cut mine 1/2" thick so it still goes far back enough to engage the bolt hold open. While no longer technically full travel it simulates the same range of motion as a real AK with a buffer installed which are about the same thickness.


edit: Compared to WE's stock buffer, using a 1/2" block only short strokes the bolt by about a bb's width.


Urethane rubber (bouncey ball)


-While 600rpm is perfectly fine for an AK I wanted something that shoots as fast as FG's buffer which is closer to 700rpm and is about how fast AKS74Us go. So I chanced upon a rubber ball and figured what better material than something designed to have the most amount of bounce. I cut a similar sized block as the one from natural rubber but keeping it on the gun proved a little harder. Urethane is known for not sticking to things very well and true enough neither contact cement or super glue holds on to it adequately. It stays on, but peels off with little effort that I'm not confident on it staying put after a few hundred rounds. While there are urethane specific adhesives, I opted to simply mechanically anchor it with a post. As my back plate already has a threaded hole for the FG style buffer spring which I ditched, I just put on an M3 grub screw protruding about 4mm. I then drilled a shallow hole half way through the back of the Urethane block which sits snugly around the grub screw. The post plus super glue looks to hold much better at least until I come across a more suitable adhesive. RPM was indeed higher than the rubber eraser at around 650-700rpm.

Edited by renegadecow
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  • 1 month later...

I found that I was having consistency issues in Full auto with my HEP steel kit AKs, along with a friend who was also having problems.


Turns out that the issue is caused by the steel disconnector being too thick, meaning it engages the bolt a few mm too early, causing the hammer to fall juuuust before the bolt was in battery, leading to inconsistency.


This isn't a problem with the RATech steel kit because it doesn't come with a steel disconnector.


To solve the issue, either use the stock WE disconnector or grind/file 2mm off the rear face of the HEP disconnector (the bit that the bolt engages with). You can test it by switching to full auto and slowly riding the bolt forward - the hammer should only fall when the bolt is in battery.

Edited by DarkLite
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