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Night Ops Tactics with the use of NVG


Animal Mother

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Hey guys,

 

Don't really post too much on here besides in the photo section. I usually just lurk around and read what I need and move on (I know that's not the best way to utilize this message board). I have been playing airsoft for over 6 years and I am definitely not new to too many things when it comes to airsoft except for one, and that being the use of Nightvision in night games. I can do a pretty good job and know my tactics for daylight games or operating without NODs, but when it comes to using them, I am completely new to it. I have finally settled on a setup that will work well for me and all I look for now is opinions on how to use the device effectively in skirmishes that take place after dark. Any advice is appreciated. Would like it to be primarily those who have used them during airsoft but anyone with real world tips could help as well.

 

My setup consists of:

 

UMP .45 Suppressed w/aimpoint

-Surefire Incan Light w/ IR Filter

-Replica PEQ-15 w/ IR laser

 

Mich 2001

-Norotos Universal Shroud

-Norotos Dovetail Adapter (setup for right eye since I'm a lefty)

-Norotos AKA2

-counterweight

 

Sight Owl Gen 2+ Night Vision Monocular

 

6385346969_19ea64830c_b.jpg

 

Thanks for looking.

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While I don't have much airsoft experience with NODs, I have used them extensively in my time in the military. I usually set my 14s over my right (dominant) eye and utilize the IR laser to aim. My left eye maintains peripheral vision on my weak side and is used to distinguish colors (as everything shows up green under NODs). This has an added bonus, as your brain will layer the two images (naked eye/full color and NODs/green) and make it appear as if the NODs are reproducing light sources in their original color.

 

As far as flashlights 'washing out' your NODs, I can't really help much with that. All the NODs I've used are high-gen autogated models, which is an absolute NECESSITY if you're shooting realsteel due to the muzzle flash.

 

I hope this was helpful, mate. :)

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Usually for me, if im running a Rifle, then ill weapon mount my NV, otherwise its on a lanyard around my neck for quick sighting and a pistol in my hand , usually my 226 with tracer attachment, big fun, just like star wars.

 

Ive found whilst helmet mounting can be good, with an IR laser on the weapon, its just not for me.

 

 

Edit, i only ever play mil-sim weekend events, and in the 20 odd that ive attended ,the pistol/NV combo method yields the highest result, by a long way.

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Get used to moving around with them on. They can really screw up your depth peception and you will find you can easily miss twigs and rocks and stuff as you are mincing along. I watched one guy, pretty experienced as far as things go in both airsoft and from the military, end up dissapearing from in front of me as he missed the slight drop, as he misread what he was seeing and ended up on his *albartroth*. Might sound silly and you will look like a bit of a *rickroll* but go for a wander round your street or local woods one evening with them on and get used to navigating around obsticles and gain an understanding of what you can and cannot see in your environment whilst looking through them. I personally prefer to move with them off where I can.

 

Try to run it passively too. It's all well and good using your surefire and IR filter but that also gives you away to anyone looking through their nods. We were able to avoid the Soviet LP/OP points simply by watching where their lamps were sweeping and being able to see the source.

 

I never had much time shooting with them mounted during that time and was always busy when 3rd squad were giving lessons on it at Eastwind but I have used mine mounted behind an acog on my M16 and it works wonderfully for me as I would be mainly using it for outdoor games and I just prefer it over helmet mounted for ease of aiming and use.

 

I'm not the most clued up, nor have I had millions of hours behind nods but I have used them quite a bit this last year so hopefully it might make sense.

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NODs are an amazing force multiplier when used by a scout. I'm the only one in my team of 10 with it. Rather than being a lone-wolf ninja, I roll ahead of the group (this is an urban play field by the way) and look around. I've got a red laser co-witnessed to the NOD, so if I see something, I'll radio or signal the group, tell them the general idea of where the laser will be, and then "mark the target" by strobing the laser (while making sure not to flash people in the eyes with it).

 

It's a bit slow, and easier to do in a defensive role. When it works... well, the results are insane. Imagine 10 people opening up on an unsuspecting three.

 

More often than not, I just keep the NODs in hand, use the pistol defensively and sling the rifle.

 

Accuracy goes out the window in Airsoft night fighting, so volume of fire makes up for it.

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I've used them quite effectively with a helmet mount and a eotech mounted on the AEG. Left eye sees green whilst the right eye picks up the eotech recticule. both combine to give you nightvision and somewhere to aim at.

 

I've used IR lasers to good effect but only if you zero it to your AEG. if you have a team using NVG then they also have the bonus of being able to pinpoint targets for everyone. IR torches are pretty good as well as they flood an area and anyone on your team using NVG's gets to shoot in "daylight" whie you illuminate the target.

 

I'm also a big fan of tracer BB's when NVG's up. they really show up through NVG's and again can be used for marking targets.

 

I run PVS-14's but for airsoft you can run Gen1's no problem along with all the bits above and have the same effect. In fact if your using Gen1 or gen2 then an IR torch really makes a big difference.

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I believe it'll need to be an incandescent torch to have an IR filter fitted though - the LED ones will produce very little IR as standard (such as the 6PX listed above). If they have an IR generating LED they'll mention it, as with the first two.

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To me Gen 1 is more hinerance than help. I bought a unit but never made it to a game with it. Not only is it not that good, but the IR illuminator it needs to be effective in anything but moonlight is bright on other NODs and also visible to the naked eye at night, in the dark.

 

Gen 2+ or 3 on the other hand....

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I haven't really written it down before, so please do correct me.

 

IR Beacons:

Often used less than it should be. As you've probably figured out, ID'ing people is very hard with nightvision. Even if you don't shoot a teammate, lighting him up with IR to identify FoF will *fruitcage* up his vision and perhaps provoke a shooting reaction from him if he hadn't seen you either.

If you have no enemies with nightvision, you should all run IR beacons all the time.

If they do have nightvision, you can turn them on at request (eg. "Everybody turn on IR beacon for 10 secs now" over radio). If your target doesn't start blinking, you shoot.

Be sure to put the beacon 100% on the top of you head so it can always be seen directly. IR light that goes Beacon -> Object next to beacon (wall etc) -> your NVG can be hard to see when combat puts pressure on you. The same goes for indoor; because the beacon lights up the entire room, you need a direct view on the source to filter it out from the background reflected IR.

 

There's of course the classic MS2000 which is relatively cheap now, but IMHO there are better solutions out there for airsoft.

Peli's are the size of a thumb and works well:

http://www.tacticalsupply.com/product/3155/264/pelican-ir-miniflasher.php

Only downside is its hard to switch on/off fast.

 

If you're in a completely dark and small space (eg. tunnel), the IR beacon will also light up just enough for you to navigate (depending on power and duration).

 

 

Flashlights:

I've had a couple of the surefire filters on my hands, and none of them worked. They let out so little IR light that you can barely light up a closet. You can change the filter for a 3mm IR lexan plate and get full IR power instead + it'll take a BB easier.

 

The problem with IR filters is that you tend to bump around when raiding, and it's easy to knock open the IR filter, spilling white light all over. Because you're focused on your goggle picture, you won't notice that you've gone over to white light....trust me XD

 

Another thing is that the human eye CAN see IR light. If you shine up a reasonably powerful IR light, be it filtered incan or LED, the parabole will shine "red". It's not the IR light leaking red light, it is actually IR light being perceived by the eye.

So even if the enemy has no NVG, don't go shining willy-nilly on them with IR if it's not necessary. You probably know this though.

If you're indoor and need it to navigate or search for enemies, a good trick is to point your rifle down or up at a 50+ degree angle and search with indirect light.

When people can see nothing, they will home like crazy on that little red dot in the dark. So hug those corners like usual and don't just stand in the open because you can't be seen.

 

Put the light as far towards the front as possible. Any light caught on the rifle will make it harder to see what you're looking at, especially outdoors.

In regards to your current setup, i'd replace that suppressor with a smaller one. You can get some that are the size of a thumb and still works decently.

 

Also figure out a pattern for communicating with IR light. It's silent and faster than radio.

Eg. 2 blinks to say "hello", 3 blinks to say "come here".

If you're coming up to an objective and spot a teammate, then he you should both be able to see each others IR beacons, but saying "hello" to each other will confirm your intents and generally help your flank timing.

In close quarters you can communicate around corners, which is nice if you're entering a building split up.

 

My opinion on lights setups:

Best Overall: SF Vampire / 620V setup. Takes up very little space. Kinda pricey though. Get/make a transparent cover for it, the lamp is expensive.

Best for milsim: 1 normal white light and 1 IR light (eg. SF 6P and SF 6P with an IR LED lamp installed)

Best for skirmish: Incan light with IR filter.

 

 

Sight:

Dot sight is the way to go.

Something that can go low enough in brightness to work through NVG.

You must also be able to adjust brightness reasonably fast on it. When you turn on your combat light indoors, the dot will usually get flooded out. If you turn it up enough to see it with the IR flashlight, the dot will bloom out the entire sight when you turn off the light.

I don't know how to solve this. Maybe there's a sight out there that takes this into consideration.

 

As small as possible and as forward as possible. Because of how the NVG focuses, the edge of the dotsight will blur your image around the dot, making it hard to see what you aim at.

C-more, Doctors and other small, open sights are the best.

Supporting your cheek/head proberly on the gun is also good. While it's not really important during the day, it's nice to be able to cut a corner with the dot in your view, since it can take so long time to raise and aim your dot with NVG.

 

 

Laser:

Not terrible fond of them for aiming. The splash from the dot disturbs your picture and it aims differently than a dotsight. More complicated to aim with than hovering a red dot over a target.

There's also the whole thing about shining powerful IR lasers in peoples faces on a regular basis. It's not a good thing.

Lasers are cool for marking targets (eg "he's behind *that* barricade") though.

 

A good trick is to use the laser as a moveable light source. The splash from where the laser hits is often enough to light up a room, creating silhuettes of people standing in doors/windows.

If you're sitting in a bush and looking at a building, a regular IR flashlight will light up the leaves/twigs in front of you instead of the building, where as the laser can be aimed through a small hole in the brush.

 

 

NVG:

Problems with fog. Some people report problems with fog on the front of the NVG, but it's not something i've experienced.

The lense towards the face fogs up quite easily though, and when it does it's very hard to defog.

You should probably get both a sacrificial lens and a demist shield right away.

 

I use(d) a skullcrusher with a random CPU fan on it. Easy to do, works great. It removed any fog on the NVG lense and my specs.

IMAG0183_big_thumb.jpg

 

 

Tactics:

Spread out in the same area. NVG combat is about having multiple viewpoints so that if one teammate can't see/shoot the target, the teammate 20m to his left can. Clumping together reduces your viewpoints. It's a lot more important than in daytime combat.

 

Know roughly where you want to go before the mission starts instead of figuring it out on the go. This prevents people from clumping up and discussion what to do. Be it 5 hour milsim or 20 min skirmish game.

 

Normal combat is often rush forward, stand still, repeat. 100% movement, 0 % movement.

With NVG you want to do 50/50.

If there's combat, you walk steadily, mostly ready to shoot. Cut corners slowly so you can retract in case of white light coming your way.

If there's nothing happening, you move forward at a solid and secure pace. If somebody turns on a light, shoot them. If they're shining at you, go into cover and have your team shoot them.

 

Hope it helps.

 

Greetings from Denmark! :D

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I've got one two, and compared it against a buddy's PVS-14... obviously it's not as nice, but for the price, it's solid. The actual light amplification is very comparable with the 14, actually. When it's actually dark, it's great. In twilight situations it's not as good and you'd be better off with your eyes usually. Resolution is not nearly as good as on the 14s, but if you really NEED to read something close-up, you can. Losing fine detail just makes it a little harder to discern objects at a distance. Build quality is actually sturdier - they're built like a tank. Overall, I'd say it's a really good value.

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What sigma said. Robust, Gen II plus, so not as good as III (obviously) but personally, if you're on a budget, it's good enough for airsoft. Most important thing to me was the mounting arm though. Norotos Universal kit all the way.

 

But as far as the NODs go, I think they are more than satisfactory for operating on an airsoft level. Autogating would be nice but isn't necessary. Even if someone else on the other team had Gen III, you could still be a formidable adversary as long as you trained better with your equipment and knew how to use it. Most of the guys around here just camp with their NOD so they are easy to overwhelm with a team of white lights supporting you with your scouting abilities (you can spot his IR sources of spotting/lighting).

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