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Modern SKS-D/SKS-M *Large Pictures*


thatoneguy92088

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I have decided to try my hand at a custom airsoft gun. I was inspired by renegadecow's amazing SKS. I do not do period airsofting, so a bright red wood stock with modern gear might look out of place. I have decided on a modernized stock for the SKS and the D/M Model for ease of skirmishability.

 

The first order of business, I ordered all of the parts I didn't want to machine and didn't need to machine off of the real SKS. I had a hard time finding a front sight, so I figured I would just make it. I was bored today, so I'll post all of the progress pictures.

 

Front Sight Solidworks Model

3pZCp.jpg

 

Front Sight Post Solidworks Model

FKrkZ.jpg

 

Front Sight CAM Simulation

zle5z.jpg

 

Now that I had the models and the G-Code I was onto the mill.

 

Stock Mounted to the Mill

o8CMG.jpg

 

Pockets and Profile Cut

TUMHV.jpg

 

Mach3 During Profile

QivUn.jpg

 

Finished Profile/Pockets

1oVel.jpg

 

Facing with the Fly-Cutter

XVLc3.jpg

 

Top Hole

GldQQ.jpg

 

Drilling for Tap

8eais.jpg

 

Manual Tapping

7vlXy.jpg

 

Here is my assembly so far. Since the real sks barrel is tapered, I need to make sleeves for the rear sight block, gas tube block and stock ferrule. This is the completed Front sight mounted to the m14 barrel

 

SmoAH.jpg

 

And the Rear Sight Block mounted

 

kKybt.jpg

 

There is a lot of work ahead, but I hope I can complete this in a timely manner. Here is how it should look all laid out.

 

ialgP.jpg

 

YxhX0.jpg

 

0rvPR.jpg

 

WlrCw.jpg

 

Xt15L.jpg

 

The gearbox will fit, but I am not looking forward to milling/drilling it out.

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Do you write your own g-code or can cad do it for you? I work in a CNC shop but I've never done anything on the programming side, curious as to what goes in to that. Most of the projects I do are hand drafted and manually machined, it's kind of a pain..

 

Details on your mill?

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Machining the receiver and bolt wont be too hard, the receiver should just be tempered steel (if its russian) if its chinese it'll be most probably soft as hell. The bolt however will be hard and you'll have to anneal it quite thoroughly before you can even think of machining it successfully

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Do you write your own g-code or can cad do it for you? I work in a CNC shop but I've never done anything on the programming side, curious as to what goes in to that. Most of the projects I do are hand drafted and manually machined, it's kind of a pain..

 

Details on your mill?

 

Unless you are doing a very simple run, there is no way I would write G-Code by hand. It's a huge pain in the *albatross* and takes forever. I have tried a few CAD setups and found solidcam to be the best, but unless you have an educational or pirated version, you better have deep pockets. There is also ESPRIT which is similar to Solidcam, but isn't integrated with Solidworks. CAMBAM works well for Autocad 2.5 D machining. The last one I have tried was Mastercam, but I disliked it a lot. As for how to get the G-Code out of the CAD software, I learned by watching these videos.

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fL723-hywk4&feature=plcp&context=C29f1aUDOEgsToPDskIbM4R9xhY5ZpHMT26yRYpB

 

The Mill is just a Sherline Mini-Mill that my brother built.

 

Machining the receiver and bolt wont be too hard, the receiver should just be tempered steel (if its russian) if its chinese it'll be most probably soft as hell. The bolt however will be hard and you'll have to anneal it quite thoroughly before you can even think of machining it successfully

If it's late chinese (receiver), you may not even need to do any serious machining. They're stamped steel with thinner walls so the inside dimensions should be more roomy.

 

I will be machining the receiver out of aluminum, even thin steel is a huge pain to do on my small mill.

 

As for updates, I don't have pictures, but I mounted the stock ferrule to the barrel. I was also trying to change the handguards out and the pin is notorious for being difficult. Broke a punch just trying to get it out so I'll just buy a tapco gas tube assembly.

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I've been working to get everything mounted to the barrel. Some pictures from the work today.

 

Stock and Gas Block

jNqdr.jpg

 

Turning it Down to Sleeve

4e5l2.jpg

 

Drilling it out 1st pass

jz4ux.jpg

 

Facing the Top

GS6EZ.jpg

 

Milling it out to Barrel Diameter

bF8Tx.jpg

 

My Workstation

tngoK.jpg

 

Here are some of the pictures of what I have done so far. Don't mind the wood handguard, I'm changing it out to tapco.

 

S76GK.jpg

 

4qGDz.jpg

 

eoUSt.jpg

 

11Teu.jpg

 

8elSX.jpg

 

Finally for today, I have started making the solidworks model of the receiver. Because of the size of my mill, It will have to be done in two parts. Some dimensions, its .6 inches High and 9 inches long. Since I am using a real steel stock, there is absolutely no room on the walls once you get to the meat of the gearbox. This piece would screw into a front piece that the barrel will screw into. Here's my model so far.

 

Pleasework.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

very very nice. what milling machine are you using?

 

Sherline Mini-Mill that my brother CNC'd

 

No I am not dead, but with school starting I'll have less time to work. The Tapco Upper handguard came in and fit beautifully and looks amazing. I thought the front end looks a bit plain so I decided to build a birdcage/custom looking flash hider.

 

First Design

oeXdm.jpg

I thought it looked alright, but it was about 1.25 inches in diameter and made my front sight post look anorexic, so it was back to the tools.

 

Facing

tAP6D.jpg

 

Pocket

GwQXO.jpg

 

Rotary Table mounted horizontal

YiF82.jpg

 

First Slots

qQPAV.jpg

 

Assembled Barrel

KbTHW.jpg

 

UWKtg.jpg

 

5NY8P.jpg

 

rwSDy.jpg

 

My next adventure is using the mill to take some of the stock material off. Then I will hollow out the stock more for the motor. After that is done I hope I can begin machining the receiver.

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  • 1 month later...

This looks phenomenal, and on par with renegade cow's build. Nice set up and originality. do you plan on using/modding the Tapco magazines, or just sticking with AK mags?

 

This is actually something I will be doing. Unfortunately I lack the access to the equipment right now, so it will be done using some real steel parts, balsa or paper models, and a process known as Rondo (fiberglass resin mixed with Bondo). Much easier to work with than steel or aluminum, and is incredibly strong as well. I'll be starting a thread once I can get the material to do it

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