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Tokyo Marui's XDM-40 4.5": first impressions


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Ok so due to NonEx's inspiration, I ended up with a Nova slide for my TM XDM too...      I love the fibre optics that come with it.... (Thx to NonEx for helping me realise you need to melt the o

My detonator slide seems to have broken in. Racking the slide is smooth as butter. The chamber still continues to produce wear but does not impede with the overall function. I myself am waiting for th

Shooters design have been a bit hit & miss lately. Their PX4 slides were bad. Nova and Prime in general are the top in terms of quality, fitting and finish but even they have some bad runs (the pr

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Sorry for late postings, heres the little metal thing that fell off when I use Green. First it made the slide stuck halfway, the when I try to rack it back, it fell off.

 

7DA4662A-9473-4F99-BD2F-B70DFCCC084F_zps

 

Anyone knows what this is?

 

Quite a blurry photo - difficult to judge how big it is without reference, but could it be one of the metal reinforcement parts that they've started putting on their newer polymer slides?

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  • 3 months later...

Are you sure thats not the metal insert for the slide catch? I've had two XDM's replaced and in both of them the slide catch just sheared a little piece of metal like that off from the inner part of the slide. This then caused the slide catch to chew up the plastic on the slide...not good. Will be getting a metal slide for my 3rd XDM as soon as I can afford one to prevent this happening again.

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  • 1 month later...

Are you sure thats not the metal insert for the slide catch? I've had two XDM's replaced and in both of them the slide catch just sheared a little piece of metal like that off from the inner part of the slide. This then caused the slide catch to chew up the plastic on the slide...not good. Will be getting a metal slide for my 3rd XDM as soon as I can afford one to prevent this happening again.

Quite positive on this. The slide catch is fine, so does other internals. This one is just the reinforcement part on the slide that connects the slide and the lower frame as not to have the frictions eat away the plastic.

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  • 2 months later...

So finally managed to run my XDM for half of a series of night games.

 

Ran like a beauty on Ultra and chronoed near the 275 mark on .2s in a slightly cold room.

 

The sights made it very easy to hit with and the clean breaking trigger allowed for swift shots (few non-hit takes got two in the chest rather that one).

 

Can't fault it and as mentioned elsewhere at some point I will put up a comparison between this and the M&P9.

 

'FireKnife'

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  • 2 months later...

Been toying with making some spacers. Got a totally dumb question if someone would mind helping me with this-
Anyone with a Glock rear sight seeing how different the proportions are to the XDM one? I'm thinking of bodging together a sight mount for a Docter. Wondering if this is feasible with some basic machining

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Came across a strange problem on my xdm since I change to metal slide. Now the hammer wouldnt hit all the way hitting the valve. And that resulted in tiny gas release.

 

Not until i release the mag that the hammer can finally be all the way down. Seems like the hammer force is too weak compare to the valve's outward pressure. The strange thing is that if I try to rack and shoot over and over, will then the gun starts to shoot (mag condition cold).

 

Tried upgrading hammer spring to no avail. Should i change the mag valve? Tried with new mag still had the same problem. Anyone got any experience on this?

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Came across a strange problem on my xdm since I change to metal slide. Now the hammer wouldnt hit all the way hitting the valve. And that resulted in tiny gas release.

 

Not until i release the mag that the hammer can finally be all the way down. Seems like the hammer force is too weak compare to the valve's outward pressure. The strange thing is that if I try to rack and shoot over and over, will then the gun starts to shoot (mag condition cold).

 

Tried upgrading hammer spring to no avail. Should i change the mag valve? Tried with new mag still had the same problem. Anyone got any experience on this?

So this is the video to show what happened. Seems like the valve knocker doesnt have enough power to hit the valve, thus why the hammer didnt go down in full when fired. And that explained why when the mag is released, the hammer would go back in place.

 

http://youtu.be/GPhSO96VuUg

Edited by delarosa
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  • 4 weeks later...

Hey guys, found the solution to the problem yesterday. Stripped it up and I got a total of 3 hammer springs to switched back and forth. Chose the strongest one and put it in. Suddenly it works. I guess I just wrongly select the matching hamspring strength the last time I put it in. Now it cycles with no problem.

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My marui xdm blew its trigger bar yesterday, it has a shooters design slide on it and about 200 rounds through it, I'm not really surprised thought, this tends to happin to all the Marius I have owned until I replace the parts with upgrade ones, the only maruis I could recommend using on green gas are there glocks, 1911s and hi capas because when parts break from useing green upgrade parts are available that will last the pace. I'm done now with maruis unless the pistol I'm after has decent 3rd party support because there stock parts are made from the same metal used in aero bars.

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Yea have one ordered from tiger111 but it's a shame that we parts have to be used. The recoile guide rod looks like it will go next not happy with the little tab that goes in to the hop chamber it's defo going to break soon. Any one had problems with this ?? Also just to nit pick the trigger safety is really easily pushed through the plastic behind the trigger making it useless which is a shame, the plastic used is weak. Not impressed with tokyo Marius use of materials for there recent produces.

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Yea have one ordered from tiger111 but it's a shame that we parts have to be used. The recoile guide rod looks like it will go next not happy with the little tab that goes in to the hop chamber it's defo going to break soon. Any one had problems with this ?? Also just to nit pick the trigger safety is really easily pushed through the plastic behind the trigger making it useless which is a shame, the plastic used is weak. Not impressed with tokyo Marius use of materials for there recent produces.

I've not yet heard of an issue with the guide rod, but Wii tech and firefly do an upgrade part for that.

I have the WE version and have had no problems yet. I've compared mine against my mates TM version and I have to say I prefer the WE. For one (imo) the WE frame seems better quality, more solid and nicely finished.

 

With regard to other parts though, I think that ALL gbb manufacturers are guilty of using poor materials in certain areas, Marui included. For example, hammers / sears and valve knockers should simply not be made from cast zinc alloy (pot metal). It wears quickly and has little tensile strength. That's a cost cutting exercise where I feel they should all take note and change. Those parts should be made from steel from the factory imo.

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Having had my TM XDM for a good 9 months of decent use I can't say I have seen a single bit of part wear. Everything in it looks fine and like it will last.

 

Running it straight on Green is going to cause issues though as it has a larger cylinder, meaning it will have a bigger effect on the parts as it rocks back and forth.

 

On Ultra, and not firing it in a very warm room, it is chugging along fine. Had an issue with the front sight popping out but that has happened in other designs that use the little cross piece holding the site to the slide.

 

'FireKnife'

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Well actually pot metal are used because theres a regulation that limits the fps, thus higher grade material does not only increase cost but also not necessary as lower grade material are enough to last a long time. The problem is that we like to use green gas on pot metal. Thats the problem.

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I think you may be missing my point.. :)

 

I'm not saying make the entire gun from steel. Cast alloy works perfectly well in certain areas and applications.

But, I don't think the hammer / sear or valve knocker should be made of it. As I said, it wears too quickly and does not really have the tensile strength for these components. Hence valve knockers snapping, hammer / sear wearing which causes random full auto etc.

 

The hammer to sear engagement is in affect an area of safety. If it's worn, as you guys know the gun can go full auto, or you can get a very light trigger with a short pull, or the gun can fire from even a hard knock. I've seen it many times as I'm sure you guys have. Hence, you often see people upgrading the hammer / sear to an aftermarket steel version.

 

I don't think it would add much to the cost of the gun to make these particular parts from steel, as they'd still be making them in bulk.

This is one area where I feel all the makers cheapskate.

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Problem with making them out of steel would be that those parts would then be much harder than the rest of the internals, and would wear out parts instead.

 

When you make stuff you can have good materials making up for bad design or good design making up for bad materials. TM are the latter. If you have both bad design and bad materials, you have a WE 1911.

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I will be honest, I have only seen that happen on a few guns and said models were known for issues.

 

But on TMs, KWAs, KSCs, WAs, some WEs, some Army's and many others like HFC, KJ and the even lesser clone makes have lasted with the standard cast parts.

 

Maybe it depends on how they are run and treated too, but I have only seen issues in issue prone guns with the odd exception that you can't really blame on anything other than just lack of luck in getting a mediocre part.

 

'FireKnife'

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The only way of getting a airsoft gun with decent internals is to build one yourself. For example a marui 1911 base, nova kit and all parts upgraded until all that's marui is the inner frame, so you get good design with good materials at a crazy financial cost but it's worth it IMO.

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