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intinerious

HK3P Glock 17

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So, here's my first ever review on Arnies and hopefully I'll be able to write down enough material for you guys to evaluate the HK3P Glock in it's stock form :D

 

Anyway, I got the gun at ACMGear, who was kind enough to grab a bunch of these in conjunction with the batch of HK3P PX4s I got (see the HK3P PX4 thread for pics :P). Again, great service from the ACMGear staff as they helped me badger the factory for nearly 6 months to get the PX4s; from what I understand they have a good reputation for overseas sales too, so I won't hesitate to recommend them as a retailer :D

 

So, rather than posting any comparisons with the Marui Glock (I've never used one though from what an IPSC friend told me when I disassembled the gun for him to have a look at he said that it's an exact Marui clone) or give details about the real steel (really, who doesn't know about the Glock!? :D) I'll jump right into the pictures.

 

 

So, this is what the box looks like, completely bland, no markings, no nothing. But like I care, the goods are inside! :D

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When you open the box....

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There's no manual or anything, and the box shape is the same as the Socom Gear Timberwolf. I think there are already strong evidence to link the WE G17 to the HK3P Glock and with this box it also links the Timberwolf. I'm pretty sure they come from the same factory and as such everything internally should be the same and the materials for the externals should be the same as well :)

 

Here's a bunch of pictures of the trademarks....not sure if they are true to the real steel Glocks, someone let me know please :D

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Well, seeing that it's a Glock and there's nothing much to say about it, I decided to disassemble the slide. I used ONE screwdriver (the one with the red end in the picture below) and everything within the slide can be disassembled, as shown in the picture. Oh yeah, the barrel will inevitably lose paint since they will rub against each other slightly when the slide cycles quickly. But I assume that's not exactly something you can really prevent since even my PGC kit for the KSC G18C have the same issues. I am currently thinking of a way to reduce the wear but I'm not sure if it works yet. Maybe I'll update once I tried it and made sure it works.

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A lot of clone TM guns have loose hop ups because the factory doesn't bother including the o-ring that provides the friction to make sure the hop up dial doesn't get loose. The HK3P gun comes with that o-ring and from my own adjustments it seems to hold well even at max hop up. However if you guys are going to use stiffer buckings like the NineBall one then I suggest you add a small bit of locktite on the hop up screws to make sure that when you tighten them down they stay tightened. That should stop the hop dial from loosening from heavy use :)

20120305_185431.jpg

 

I'm not sure whether the original Marui comes with a rubber buffer for the recoil spring guide rod but the one on the HK3P is pot metal. Now I've cycled the gun to about 100-150 times already and there's no signs of damage yet, but if the Marui original didn't have a rubber buffer and if they hold up I guess the HK3P one will?

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Here's the picture of just the buffer that locks the recoil guide rod in place at the front.

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Well I forgot to take pics of the sights but really they are the same as the stock Marui ones. Whatever you expect out of the Glock sights the HK3P ones are the same, no blurry dot on the front sight, no blurry lines on the rear sight.

 

Don't really have much to talk about the slide any more, let's move to the frame!

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When I took the pics I'm still unfamiliar with the disassembly of the frame, so I didn't take disassembly pics, sorry!

 

Here's a closeup of the hammer (which people find that it's an issue with the TM Glocks as it somehow creates heavy resistance under certain conditions). My IPSC friend said it's exactly the same as a TM hammer.

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As with all factory Glocks, the mag catch is sharp but it's molded very well. I filed it down after this pic and rounded the edges so it doesn't hurt my fingers when I run the Glock without gloves.

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Something I though it would be interesting to post is the trigger movement on the Glock. I'm too used to my 1911 with the short reset trigger hence I found the trigger pull horrendous on this Glock, even worst than my old G18C (I haven't touched that for 2 years already, don't remember how that felt). Here's a pic of the trigger at rest position.

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Here's where the trigger starts engaging the hammer, so the sear will trip if you move the trigger backwards past this point.

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And for the sake of completeness, here's the max amount of travel for the trigger.

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I don't run the stock trigger any more since I upgraded this Glock by this time when I'm writing the review. I'll post pics and maybe review the trigger here as well as some other parts that I used once I have more time to do so.

 

I know this review doesn't say much since I don't expect people to read a ton of material that TM Glock reviewers probably wrote already, but here's some data that I think most people will find useful if they ever want to upgrade their Glocks with lighter slides or BBUs.

 

Masses:

Blow Back Unit w/ Stock Piston Head = 47g (compared with AIP's data for the TM BBU (51.3g) and their lightweight one (24.4g))

Slide w/ Front Sight = 83g

Slide Assembly (everything in the slide) = 248g

Glock w/o Mag = 499g

Glock w/ Mag = 768g

Empty Mag = 269g (sorry, didn't have green gas at that moment, couldn't measure the mass of the full mag)

 

Oh yeah, nearly missing something crucial! The energy output of this gun, using ET-1000 gas and shooting 0.25g KSC BBs at ~22 degrees Celsius measuring 10 shots equals to an average of 0.81J.

 

In essence this HK3P Glock 17 is well worth the buy. Is it better than the TM one? Yes I think it IS better than the TM one. It comes with a metal slide (which is cast btw, but the casting is damn good along with the trades which are sharp....I know it's cast because there are very very minute pitting INSIDE the slide, not on the outside) and the material for the frame feels better than the standard ABS frame you get with the TM or even the Guarder replacement (but this is just my opinion of course).

 

With the fact that it costs 1/2 as much as a TM with full trades, functioning magazine (no leaks!) the cost to performance ratio as a GBB pistol is second only to the HK3P PX4 in my opinion. I went with the Glock merely because I can get rubber mag bases so I can drop the mags during speed reloads and since I've got some serious mental issues with trying to upgrade any airsoft guns I can get my hands on the Glock 17 wins over the PX4 with the plethora of aftermarkt goodies you can find :P

 

I hope the pictures speak for themselves too? I don't know what else I can write. Please feel free to ask me more questions about the gun though! :D

Edited by intinerious
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Trademarks are similar to those found on Guarder TM frames, so close enough (unless you're anal about getting the lower right hand side). The rest looks identical to my TM G17; trademarks on the slide don't look out of proportion either (unlike Shooters Design and a few others). Seems like a good starter gun for those who want Glocks right off the bat without the need for upgrades.

 

The rest looks good. I kinda want to get this for a project gun.

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Wonder how this compares to the Stark Glock which I heard on the grape vine is the best Airsoft Glock available after the KSC G19 which of course is a compact.

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Trademarks are similar to those found on Guarder TM frames, so close enough (unless you're anal about getting the lower right hand side). The rest looks identical to my TM G17; trademarks on the slide don't look out of proportion either (unlike Shooters Design and a few others). Seems like a good starter gun for those who want Glocks right off the bat without the need for upgrades.

 

The rest looks good. I kinda want to get this for a project gun.

 

That was exactly why I went with this rather than getting a Marui Glock. My thought was since I was upgrading it anyway, why dump the cash on the TM one when this comes with most of what I need already in terms of externals? As a stock gun this didn't disappoint either, and given that the Timberwolf and WE G17 should be exactly the same internally I'd say those who are planning to get those won't be disappointed too! :P Thanks for the update on the trades too :D

 

Actually anyone with a WE G17 or the TImberwolf wanna chip in their opinions? :)

 

Are the frame and slide 1mm wider like the Marui?

 

I'd say they are the same dimensions as Marui....I think the Marui was designed with a fatter frame and slide because of the need to house the internals? Anyway it seems that the HK3P is a direct clone of the Glock bar with better trademarks so any dimensional problems we have with the TM ones you'll find on the WE/SocomGear/HK3P one.

 

I'm planning to add the Airsoft Surgeon Glock 21 slide in the future...from what I understand the Glock 21 BlackHawk! holsters fit the TM Glock 17 perfectly so I'm thinking the dimensions of the TM Glock is the same as a real steel Glock 21.

 

Wonder how this compares to the Stark Glock which I heard on the grape vine is the best Airsoft Glock available after the KSC G19 which of course is a compact.

 

Too bad the Stark Glock is a Model 18C? :P There's a review here on Arnies and some already started to have issues with the hammer giving too much slide resistance, but that happens on the TM Glock 17 too. I haven't encountered that problem yet but I'll update when I do. I don't have a Stark 18C to borrow either so I really can't do a comparison right now, sorry :(

 

 

The HK3P frame and 'Glock trademark' mag base is being sold for HKD 140 at Kwong Wah street here in HK, comparatively the Guarder ones are sold for HKD 190. If you don't care about the plastic colour itself and just want a replacement frame for the Glock I'd suggest getting the HK3P one over the Guarder given the cost and the quality of the HK3P frame....I'm sure the webstore prices are similarly adjusted for both frames.

 

EDIT: One more thing I forgot to mention! Here are the current internal upgrades I have in the Glock right now:

 

Modify Hop Rubber (only WGC seem to sell them)

 

Tanio Koba Twist Barrel for Glock 17

 

Airsoft Surgeon Nozzle and Piston Head (note that the HK3P floating valve seem to be a perfect fit in the nozzle, as in the plastic seals perfectly)

 

SAPH 150% Nozzle Spring

 

SAPH 200% Recoil Spring (didn't feel any stronger than the stock spring but it's got fewer coils, which was good since I'm short stroking)

 

SAPH Recoil Buffers (added 3 of these into the Glock and it's just enough that it will lock back on the last shot)

 

GunsModify Adjustable Trigger (adjusted it so that it eliminates all pre-travel of the trigger)

 

In the future I'll be adding the AIP featherweight BBU and the AIP Steel Hammer and Sear set.

 

Something to note is that I use Tamiya Moly Grease on the slide rails and the hammer sears on the Glock. This makes it run unbelievably smooth. A tube of that stuff is damn cheap anyway (HKD 30 in Hong Kong..which for a 'hobby' grease it's cheap!) and you don't need to use a lot either. I highly suggest that grease for GBB pistols and rifles :P Don't use that on AEGs though, from what the RC Racing shop owner told me the Tamiya Cera Grease is better since it resists work done more and does not thin out at high temperatures. The Moly Grease is not as good as the Cera if you want to use it in AEG gears.

 

Also, do not put the Moly Grease anywhere near o-rings, use silicone oil for those areas or whatever grease you guys generally use. The Moly Grease will wear down the o-rings.

 

 

 

I think one of the youtube vids for the WE Glock mentions that the reviewer bought a WE G17 and the AIP steel sears and it was still under the price of a Marui original. This little nugget of information might convince those of you who want a reliable and cheap Glock as a sidearm or project gun and have a bit of tech knowledge to install the steel hammer/sear set consider the WE/SocomGear/HK3P Glock series :)

Edited by intinerious
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great review! i just got mine in the mail today and its a great pistol. the only negative thing to me about this glock is that the lower frame does not feel as good as that of a ksc glock.

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great review! i just got mine in the mail today and its a great pistol. the only negative thing to me about this glock is that the lower frame does not feel as good as that of a ksc glock.

 

Thanks! :D

 

It's more....I dunno how to say it, but it def. feels more 'brittle' than the ABS frames of the stock Marui, KSC and Guarder replacements. The stippled areas for the grip feel sharper than the ABS frame of my KSC, that's for sure. Still, if it's a big deal for you there's always Guarder replacement frames, although since you're living in Canada (I'm guessing from your selected Country? :P) it might not be worth the cost since prices go up some 3-4 times over there right?

 

I'm actually thinking of getting another Hk3P frame to experiment with stippling and modding the frame. With bare hands the Glock fits me just fine but once I start using gloves it becomes a hassle, and that's with the Gunsmodify trigger installed...I can't imagine how horrible it'll be with gloves + a stock trigger with the pre-travel.

 

I'm thinking of:

 

1. Removing some material under the trigger guard to allow my non-shooting hand to get a higher grip;

 

2. Removing the finger grooves so I can comfortably and instinctively grip the gun higher;

 

3. Removing some material under the joint where the trigger guard and the grip so that I can ride my firing hand higher on the gun;

 

4. Removing some material around the back-end of the grip (where the small beaver-tail part of the grip begins) so it will reduce the diameter of the area where the web between thumb and trigger finger wraps around;

 

5. Stippling the front side and sides of the grip, the front and bottom of the trigger guard with the wood burner material that member Katotaka did with his Glock over at the Glock picture thread, with the Noveske-like logo for the burner;

 

6. And finally I need to think of a way to reduce the back grip size.

 

 

Oh and I also rounded off the edge on the BBU where the hammer roller runs on; hopefully that should smoothen out the action. For reducing the loss of paint on top of the barrel chamber; I think filing a slightly bigger 'ditch' for where the hop up pin runs on (that pushes the barrel up when it's in battery) so that the barrel dips down once 1mm of slide travel occurs should do the trick, but I'm not too sure yet. Currently it takes 2mm-3mm of slide travel before the barrel chamber dips down. It's where you start to see the whole enlarge retaining end of the guide rod being exposed when you pull the slide back when the chamber starts dipping down.

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Got the stark g18c with real trades from tokyo model co (selling under "tai wan g18" because of legal/trade mark issues) and my buddy got the we g18 gen 4 which is simular build quality to the hk glocks (come from same factory) and I have to say both are very nice but the Stark is only $10 more and the quality is far better. For any one who wants to get a glock airsoft pistol and dont mind which varient they get go for the stark g18c or ksc g19 both are better then the marui glocks.

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Got the stark g18c with real trades from tokyo model co (selling under "tai wan g18" because of legal/trade mark issues) and my buddy got the we g18 gen 4 which is simular build quality to the hk glocks (come from same factory) and I have to say both are very nice but the Stark is only $10 more and the quality is far better. For any one who wants to get a glock airsoft pistol and dont mind which varient they get go for the stark g18c or ksc g19 both are better then the marui glocks.

 

Uhhh...thanks for the comments and all, but how are you able to say that the original TM is subpar when you've only compared both the Stark and the WE Glock 18C?

 

Any elaboration on what makes the Stark better? Is it quality of the metal and polymer used? I would think the slide fitment should not be an issue with the WE as my HK3P Glock's slide fits the frame perfectly with little to no wobble.

 

I'd think another thing you can compare on the Glock 18C is whether the full auto switch slides smoothly on the slide or not. As much as I appreciate your comments it'll be nice if you can give us more details on what makes the Stark better than the WE so we can be more informed when it comes to buying the Glock 18Cs :) (which come to think of it doesn't your comment seem to belong in the Stark G18C review more? :P)

 

How is the KSC Glock 19 better than the Marui Glock as well? If you're talking about the polymer frame that the Glock 19 uses then it's really up to user preferences as the real steel still uses plain old ABS on the Gen3 frames from what I've gathered. Internally I find the KSC Glocks to be more of a *badgeress* to handle compared with TM, and in terms of aftermarket parts availability the Marui one still trumps the KSC Glocks.

Edited by intinerious

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Sorry for the late reply, first I have to say the marui glocks are good gbb,s very accurate and are made well, I have had a couple marui g17,s in the last few years, one with a guarder frame and slide instaled and the other I kept stock. I also have a ksc g19 with an airsoft surgeon slide on it and I think the build quality on the ksc is far superior, the lower reciever as well as looking better then the marui g17 feels alot more solid and the internals don,t wear as quickly as the marui g17 internals. The only advantage the marui g17 has over the ksc g19 is the hop up is a better design. The Stark is a great GBB, it has the marui g18 design but with improvements the frame doesnt have the marui g17 shiney plastic but a nice matt frame simular to the marushin shell ejecting glock, the slide is well made and fits perfect the finish on the slide is consistantly good and the outer barrel looks great with very little wobble, its also the only 6mm airsoft glock that has the 2 frame pins like the real steel and the internals are very cool that are made to look good as well as perform, but as its Starks first venture there are a few mistakes, the first being the sights they scratch easy and need replacing, second, a plastic guide rod even with the buffer feels wrong, third, the selector is not as nice as the rest of the gun it works well but has a stupid seem line that looks weird.

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Sorry for the late reply, first I have to say the marui glocks are good gbb,s very accurate and are made well, I have had a couple marui g17,s in the last few years, one with a guarder frame and slide instaled and the other I kept stock. I also have a ksc g19 with an airsoft surgeon slide on it and I think the build quality on the ksc is far superior, the lower reciever as well as looking better then the marui g17 feels alot more solid and the internals don,t wear as quickly as the marui g17 internals. The only advantage the marui g17 has over the ksc g19 is the hop up is a better design. The Stark is a great GBB, it has the marui g18 design but with improvements the frame doesnt have the marui g17 shiney plastic but a nice matt frame simular to the marushin shell ejecting glock, the slide is well made and fits perfect the finish on the slide is consistantly good and the outer barrel looks great with very little wobble, its also the only 6mm airsoft glock that has the 2 frame pins like the real steel and the internals are very cool that are made to look good as well as perform, but as its Starks first venture there are a few mistakes, the first being the sights they scratch easy and need replacing, second, a plastic guide rod even with the buffer feels wrong, third, the selector is not as nice as the rest of the gun it works well but has a stupid seem line that looks weird.

 

Hmmm the KSC internals don't wear down as fast as the Marui? Hmm that's interesting although I've already heard more problems with the stock TM's hammer creating too much friction with the slide than problems with the KSC G19 internals; so I shouldn't be so surprised....probably because of the Marui bias I still hold XD. Also maybe I was wrong to assume all KSC Glocks wear down quicker than the TM since I've only ever owned and used a KSC G18C, which are known for their horrendous wearing away of the sears without aftermarket replacement parts (why don't companies make a full steel set of sears for the KSC G18C anyway!? A lot of people use the FPG already which is based on the KSC/KWA G18C and as such you'd think there is a big enough market to produce even a small batch of those sears at a premium price and still manage to sell out easily).

 

As for the frame being stronger than the TM, I'd have to concur with that...but since the material on the KSC G19 seems to be a blend of metal powder + polymer, I doubt it'll be easy to stipple compared to the TM frame that many like to do (just check the Glock picture thread here...) and again it's not true to the real steel; which some people might have an issue with :P The material on the frame of the G19 is also much more brittle considering I got a free KSC G19 with a small, thin part of the frame that got snapped off; you can see a clean shear line on the polymer frame...something I doubt that the TM would be able to reproduce even if you were to smash the frame with a hammer (given the flexibility of the ABS compared with the KSC "polymer" I'd hazard to say a much bigger piece of material would snap off even if you tried to chisel the TM frame with a screw-driver and hammer.

 

Another advantage over the TM with the KSC is probably the size of the guns....but then you're comparing the KSC G19 with the TM G17, which is already an unfair test in a way :P

 

As for the Stark, thanks for the info in regards to the frame pins and the overall impression of their offering (though I'd suggest we should leave it at that considering there's a whole review thread for the Stark already! XD). The sights are always replaceable on the Stark with Guarder's and GunsModify's offering...same with the recoil guide rod which we can get a Guarder replacement for. The selector can also be replaced with a Detonator aftermarket part if I remember correctly. From what you're saying I might make the Stark G18C my next purchase if I ever need a full auto Glock :D

Edited by intinerious

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I'm thinking about picking one of these up, but I have a few questions.

 

Is the slide cheaply anodized or painted?

 

Is the mag the same as the WE, with the e-clip on the output valve?

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I'm thinking about picking one of these up, but I have a few questions.

 

Is the slide cheaply anodized or painted?

 

Is the mag the same as the WE, with the e-clip on the output valve?

 

Cheaply anodized. Some corners are already losing the black ano. It's really really thin but then again the cost of the gun... :P

 

Mag is same as the WE with the e-clip. I'd say anything internal + the magazine is the same between the HK3P, WE and Lonewolf (Socom Gear).

 

Hmmm why do you ask about the magazine btw? I just find it strange :P Do you have any info regarding it's performance? I haven't touched my airsoft stuff for a while as I'm busy with Uni work, so any input would be great :D

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Thanks for the reply.

 

I asked because I had a WE M9 before, and the magazine had a similar output valve using the e-clip. The area around the e-clip became peened, causing the valve knocker to sometimes slip off it during double action, and also caused uneven wear on the valve knocker.

Edited by vilerk

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Thanks for the reply.

 

I asked because I had a WE M9 before, and the magazine had a similar output valve using the e-clip. The area around the e-clip became peened, causing the valve knocker to sometimes slip off it during double action, and also caused uneven wear on the valve knocker.

 

Hmmm never heard of that happening before; but I'd say I've got a mag here with around 100 hammer strikes (dry fired with no gas inside) and so far it's holding up. I'll keep that in mind in case my mag valves start to peen and I'll update this thread too :P Thanks for the heads up!

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so, i'm looking inside the outer barrel (during a dis assembly cleaning) and there appears to be some sort of threading. is this threading able to take some sort of adapter for a suppressor? looks like HK3P does the same to the PX4 and their new SIG P226. can anyone confirm? thanks.

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I own the PX4 and the Samurai Edge, and both take a threaded adapte for a suppressor (the Samurai Edge even came with one in the box, cant remember about the PX4. So I think that all HK3P pistols have this feature.

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I own the PX4 and the Samurai Edge, and both take a threaded adapte for a suppressor (the Samurai Edge even came with one in the box, cant remember about the PX4. So I think that all HK3P pistols have this feature.

 

thanks, spaniard. i've been told this adapter works with the PX4 (http://torontoairsoft.com/product.php?id_product=1251). i'll give it a go with my glock.

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thanks, spaniard. i've been told this adapter works with the PX4 (http://torontoairsoft.com/product.php?id_product=1251). i'll give it a go with my glock.

 

It's taken from WE's design from what I remember. WE has a threaded adaptor that works with the HK3P pistols too if you don't want to use the PX4 suppressor.

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Please let us know if it works with the Glock. The threading on the outer barrels was primarily implemented keeping the needs for the US market in mind. The US market as you know requires a certain length of the front end painted bright red/orange. What this thread adapter allows the retailers to do is just paint that one part thread it in and glue it in place on the end of the outer barrel and you're done. It was just simpler for HK3P to produce one outer barrel with built in threading and decide later whether or not the barrel needs a painted thread adapter for the intended market it's going to.

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Hm I realised I haven't updated this for a long time, so since I just wrote something about the Glock though a PM I'll copy and paste it here:

 

It seems my upgraded AS nozzle doesn't seal with the mag gasket at all. I tested it by colouring the top of the gasket with some blue marker pen and inserted the mag, then racked the slide. Disassembled the slide afterwards and there weren't any blue colouring on the clear AS nozzle. I had to test this because I am running 3 SAPH buffers + 200% SAPH Glock recoil spring (since I want the slide return to be as fast as possible) and it's not locking the slide on a lot of shots plus the mag cools down a lot. I might remove the buffers in the future if it doesn't work out.

 

I tried remedying the situation between the nozzle and gasket by buying the new nineball aero gaskets (the purple ones, they only made it for hicapas/p226 before but they have new ones for Glocks out since last week...pricey though at HKD 65 for one, HKD 110 for two :(). Found that the height between the stock HK3P gasket is the same as the nineball one, that got me annoyed :P

 

I'll be trying to fix it by getting an AIP featherweight BBU for the Glock sometime later (as it might be the stock BBU's problem since I believe the gasket SHOULD touch the nozzle, even on the original TM one, correct me if I'm wrong though) and hopefully it'll seal well plus increase my slide cycle speed + letting me lock my slide back with the current config. If worst comes to worst I'd get some LPE mag shims...

 

 

 

For those interested in the GunsModify Trigger I've installed it in my Glock (pics later :D). The GunsModify kit lacked the plastic shims that shim the trigger bar (you'll get it if you see the instruction manual) and my friend's trigger kit lacked the spring for the 'safety' bar in the middle of the trigger. All I can say is that GunsModify doesn't have a lot of QC in regards to how they package their stuff....

 

I'll do a full review of the GunsMod Trigger later in another subforum but for now I can tell you guys that it will require a bit of filing to fit it into the frame of the HK3P Glock. Now I don't have a TM Glock myself so I can't say whether the Gunsmod trigger is drop in for a TM but if it is then that shows there are slight dimensional differences between the HK3P and the TM. I had to file the width of the trigger slightly (it was an easy job, will upload pics on a later date) so that it doesn't rub against the Glocks' inner metal frame to make the trigger rotate smoothly. Once I installed the trigger the gun tag safety that TM uses doesn't work any more if I adjust the trigger to remove all pre-travel.

 

I think I'll end my update for now and if I install further parts or modify anything I'll update again. Hope this helps :)

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Update:

 

The Gen2 gunsmod triggers that has a working safety has been reported to have better QC in terms of packing all the bits and bobs into the package. This information came from my casual conversation with Richard Chan from Alpha Airsoft (still operates under Wargame Outlet online but I believe he's changing it soon) and he had like 4-5 packs of the triggers in his store when I met with him.

 

Also, I looked at the slide of my friend's HK3P Glock 17 and he's gamed it quite a bit and is used roughly. The thin anodization rubs/scratches off like a scratched up PGC 1911 kit but at a much faster rate given the thin layer of anodization.

 

I've gotta take fiddlesticks around HK tomorrow sooo yeah, won't be taking pics of anything till maybe Friday or Saturday. I'll ask my friend for a picture of his Glock as well so you guys can get a gauge of how the slide will look after gaming with the Glock intensely :)

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