mimesis Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Bought this a while back from UNC for $400 odd. Just recently dropped in a PDI piston head in place of the original TM cup, and it's performing like a champ...... on duster! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 That's a tasty, tasty piece. I can't help but think that it'd look better with pearl grips though, because I am apparently a ######. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 There is dummy firing pin plate for TM 1911 to hide hex screw. I don't know it fits on Ino 1911 but worth to try. Hey volante, what brand is that? I've never seen a dummy pin for the 1911 (bar the RATECH Kimber) in any of the shops before. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 2roy tactical? Should be somewhere on here, if I could understand it: http://www.2roytactical.com/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted April 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Bought this a while back from UNC for $400 odd. Just recently dropped in a PDI piston head in place of the original TM cup, and it's performing like a champ...... on duster! http://i825.photobucket.com/albums/zz176/verisimilitude_asf/P226007.jpg Lovely - what's she got in terms of parts? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted April 30, 2012 Report Share Posted April 30, 2012 Airsoft Surgeon [...] is $1500 for what I think is a PGC/Pro-Win-kitted Marui. Lovely - what's she got in terms of parts? PGC MBK (inc. outer barrel); Guarder black recoil spring guide; upgraded recoil spring; PDI piston head; and Altamont rosewood grips. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volante Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Hey volante, what brand is that? I've never seen a dummy pin for the 1911 (bar the RATECH Kimber) in any of the shops before. It's from small Korean brand. TAG ART. But as it is for TM 1911, i don't know whether it fits on INO 1911. And RAtech kimber has dummy firing pin as standard. you don't need this for it. There is also WE and Prime made dummy firing pin for P226. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
intinerious Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 2roy tactical? Should be somewhere on here, if I could understand it: http://www.2roytactical.com/ It's from small Korean brand. TAG ART. But as it is for TM 1911, i don't know whether it fits on INO 1911. And RAtech kimber has dummy firing pin as standard. you don't need this for it. There is also WE and Prime made dummy firing pin for P226. Ah thanks guys Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slu Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 I didn't get any response from Inok regarding buying P226 parts. mimesis: Where did you get those logo Nill grips? I looked everywhere for them when I built my SIG a years back, it doesn't seem to be available direct from SIG or aftermarket. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 1, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 There is also WE and Prime made dummy firing pin for P226. Huh, I might have to see if that will fit... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted May 1, 2012 Report Share Posted May 1, 2012 Where did you get those logo Nill grips? I looked everywhere for them when I built my SIG a years back, it doesn't seem to be available direct from SIG or aftermarket. Ebay. Various models and different woods are there from time to time. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lazyshark Posted May 4, 2012 Report Share Posted May 4, 2012 That thing looks beast! Just wanted to point out that the steel frame is an industry first as far as I know, but creation made a steel slide once upon a time: http://www.uncompany.com/pageproductdetails.asp?prodid=6620 Also, I would highly recommend swapping out the nozzle for a SD part, the gas route packings for the mags to nineball. Also, try warming up your mags before shooting them with a hand warmer. That always helps increase kick AND fps. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) Updates! First, thanks to volante I've purchased and fitted the Prime Dummy Firing Pin v.2, and frankly I can't recommend it enough. It was ridiculously easy to fit (by far the easiest upgrade the gun has had), it was relatively cheap (in airsoft terms - it was still ruthlessly overpriced for what it was) and it is very well made and good looking. You will need a precision screwdriver (Phillips ##1 or smaller) and that is it. The hammer doesn't appear to strike the dummy pin (which is sprung, so it does move) but in either case with the gun cocked the shooter's view is much improved. Second, the gun now has a Guarder 150% recoil spring (the Action 160% was out of stock) which has made slide return noticeably snappier. Third, my real-steel SIG Sauer P226 mainspring housing arrived. This needs a small amount of material removed (I used a Leatherman, which worked just fine) to fit the hammer-spring post-thingy. Most importantly, this meant that I could finally fit my Hogue Extreme Aluminium grips (matte black, chequered) which are a huge improvement on the Marui grips the gun was supplied with. Photos when I have something better than my phone to take them with, unless you really want to see it now. Also, I would highly recommend swapping out the nozzle for a SD part, the gas route packings for the mags to nineball. I'm getting mixed advice about the gas routers for the magazines; I might try one and see how it goes. The nozzle (KJW) is different to the Marui - I really need another look inside the Marui before I commit to buying an upgraded nozzle (which I probably will, eventually). Edited May 10, 2012 by PureSilver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Just a note about the piston head if you are considering upgrading that, the TM is snap on while KJW has a screw on design so TM parts won't work very well with the KJW. I punched a hole in mine and screwed it in but it just didn't seem right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 My TM (pictured above) came stock with the old-fashioned cup, that snaps on to the head of a screw behind it. The screw is not visible when the cup is in place. I popped the cup off, undid the screw, and replaced with a PDI piston head, that improved performance significantly. I've never seen inside a KJ P226. BTW, although PDI sells them in different packaging, it appears that piston heads for 1911, hi-capa and P226 (and G26) (all TM) have identical specs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 (edited) Just a note about the piston head if you are considering upgrading that, the TM is snap on while KJW has a screw on design so TM parts won't work very well with the KJW. I should have added that I took Bababoey's advice and fitted the gun with a Nineball inner barrel, hop-rubber and pistol lid a while back. It works just fine (though I haven't had an opportunity to chrono it recently). My TM (pictured above) came stock with the old-fashioned cup, that snaps on to the head of a screw behind it. The screw is not visible when the cup is in place. Mine involved popping the existing 'cup' off, unscrewing the supplied screw, and replacing it with the Nineball head followed by the Nineball screw. You're right about the piston head compatibility, also - mine was marked 'for P226' but also listed a variety of other pistols it would fit. Edited May 10, 2012 by PureSilver Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 I should have added that I took Bababoey's advice and fitted the gun with a Nineball inner barrel, hop-rubber and pistol lid a while back. It works just fine (though I haven't had an opportunity to chrono it recently). Mine involved popping the existing 'cup' off, unscrewing the supplied screw, and replacing it with the Nineball head followed by the Nineball screw. You're right about the piston head compatibility, also - mine was marked 'for P226' but also listed a variety of other pistols it would fit. Sounds good! So the loading nozzle (aka cylinder) is still original KJ, right? It would be good to confirm that these internal parts are cross-compatible (TM piston head fits well inside KJ nozzle). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 Loading nozzle is indeed still the original KJW. As to the fit, I'm not sure. It's tight - not so tight that it won't move, but sufficiently tight that if extended the spring pressure alone won't return it, let alone make it snap back into place like my KSC M8000. In your Maruis, does the nozzle snap back into place if manually pulled forwards (i.e. towards the ejection port)? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mimesis Posted May 10, 2012 Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 You may want to try the tiniest dab of silicon around the O-ring of the piston head. And yes, in my builds, my aim is to feel some slight contact/friction between the O-ring and the inside of the nozzle, but when you push the nozzle forward with your fingernail and release, it still snaps back into the "retracted" position. I've got piston heads from PDI, Action, A. Surgeon, Shooters Design, and Nine Ball, and nozzles from Shooters Design, A. Surgeon, SA Production House, as well as TM. It's just a question of finding the right mix and match. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 10, 2012 After a rather liberal application of silicone/PTFE spray and some manual racking, it's much improved and now snaps back properly. I should think some heavier silicone grease for the O-ring will resolve the problem. The parts are definitely compatible, though I think it might benefit from a slightly stiffer return spring - is such a thing available? I don't even know what that part's called. Which, in your experience, is the best Marui-compatible nozzle? What advantages am I likely to see? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
BaBaBooey Posted May 11, 2012 Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 You don't want to put too much oil in the blow back components...if it makes its way into the cylinder, it might get into the hop chamber and this will affect the power output. Oil inside the hop chamber is not a good thing, but it will naturally begin to dissipate as you fire more and more bb's (I don't recommend trying to clean it out). I think the spring you are referring to is the cylinder return spring, but I don't recommend changing it unless you absolutely have to. If you combine it with a stronger recoil spring, it will mess up the timing since more force is needed to complete the blowback cycle...as the weather gets cold, your pistol may also stop functioning. If the timing is off, the knocker lock will not trip at the correct time and will allow more gas to vent out since the valve knocker will be opening the main magazine valve for too long. This extra gas won't be going down the barrel since the floating valve will already be shut and routing all the gas backwards into the cylinder or out of the ejection port (it might look cool, but you're actually wasting gas). It's very difficult to say what advantages a certain component will have since the various changes you made to it, will may make it act differently than mine (there are also other factors such as the temperature, type of bb used, wear, etc.). I highly recommending getting a good chrono if you're going to be swapping parts...it's not the "end-all", but it will give you a general idea of what certain upgrade parts are doing on your gun, especially since yours is unique. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted May 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted May 11, 2012 I know about the oil/blowback mix; obviously I kept the inner barrel assembly far away when getting in with the oil and I'll vent it with propane a bit before I use it next; that should help to clean the excess out. The part is definitely the cylinder return spring, and I shall take your advice and see how the gun chronos with all these bolt-ons before fiddling any more with that. Not planning on buying a Skan just yet (I need an assault rifle most) but my local has one and I'm happy to abuse my hospitality there! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
lazyshark Posted May 13, 2012 Report Share Posted May 13, 2012 About the nozzle: I wouldn't recommend guarder. My stock Marui nozzle broke within the first few shots but I got a used gun so I can't definitively say how strong it really is. Other than that I think sd makes the only other nozzle. It comes with a floating valve as well. Not as important to change though. Firefly is no good in the p226 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PureSilver Posted June 11, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 I took some photos of the Inokatsu sporting its new Hogue Extreme aluminium grips. These had to be Dremel-ed to remove a small amount of material on the inside of the left-hand grip to permit the decocker spring to sit comfortably, but now fit perfectly. The gun also features the Prime dummy firing pin (v.2). Not visible are the internal upgrades - a Nineball tightbore inner barrel, hop-rubber and Dyna piston head, a Guarder 150% recoil spring (but not the 150% hammer spring), and a SIG Sauer mainspring seat. Anyway, photos! Apologies for the low quality, these are from a cameraphone. As usual, click through for higher quality. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
volante Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I want to know what frame it has. Kj original? PGC? Prime? And, for a tip, if you use plastic or aluminium outer barrel with it, it will work better. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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