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TM P226 E2 with Creation slide or Prime kit: anyone tried them yet?

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Title says it all.

 

Anyone installed a Creation slide/outer barrel or a Prime full slide/frame set on the E2?

 

Ease of installation? Functionality once installed?

 

I know there's some Guarder stuff out there too, but I'm really not interested in that, unless someone can attest that they've miraculously improved their QC and manufacturing tolerances.

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Thanks! Good to hear. How's the finish on the metal? In another P226 thread on here, some people were saying that on the newer Prime kits it wasn't as good as in the past, and that when silicon got on it, it turned a strange color...

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How's the finish on the metal?

 

Yes, their E2 uses the same finish as their other kits. The color changed on mine when it came into contact with silicone oil, but it clears up as the oil dries. It also scratches very easily. After one indoor game mine had a tremendous amount of scars on it just from taking it in and out of my holster (a fairly soft nylon one).

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Yes, their E2 uses the same finish as their other kits. [...] It also scratches very easily. After one indoor game mine had a tremendous amount of scars on it just from taking it in and out of my holster (a fairly soft nylon one).

 

:wacko: That's odd...

 

As far as I understand it the finish should still be anodized (I can't see Prime resorting to painting) and that should leave a surface finish with much greater hardness than untreated alloy. It may be that cost-cutting means that anodizing isn't as deep as it should be, or the sealing is deficient, and thus the lower wear resistance is allowing the coating to be abraded. If the oil is affecting the colour it would seem that it is penetrating the surface, which must be more porous than it should be. That's gonna be a pain to fix, too, since the only solution I can think of is having it properly re-anodized and then resealed.

 

Can we see photos of yours with the silicone oil change and the scratches, please?

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I have the Prime P226 Navy (later version) P228 and P226E2.

The finish on the E2 is completely different to the coated finish of the Navy.

The Prime E2 would be more inline with the PGC sort kits.

Maybe there is an inconsistency in their finishes ?

But I actually would have preferred the Navy being similar in finish to the E2 !

But no complaints they all look great, and I'm sure batches vary as they come and go,

at such irregular intervals.

If your getting the Pime E2 you should be more than happy ;-)

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I don't have any plans on fixing it as I don't feel it's broken. I actually think the naturally used look appears rather nice. I certainly understand how the finish is important, but didn't think of it as an issue since PRIME's SIG kits perform consistently and reliably. I never tried the Creation kit, but the PRIME kit now shoots very fast and was extremely easy to install with no modifications.

 

You can see the color change on my PRIME M16 kit. The dark spots begin to go away as the oil dries off (I've since replaced the upper with a modified SP1 upper which I posted in the AR15 photo topic). You can especially see it around the rear receiver pin...that actually went away when I wiped it down with a cloth.

 

Colt65302.jpg

 

You can see my scarred PRIME Navy kit on the Marui P226E2 news thread (to show a kit intended for an R can be installed over an E2)...it almost feels like the surface of an old chalk board. Maybe it's supposed to be like that; I never really thought about it too much.

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From what I've seen so far Prime dropped their QC, I don't have any P226 kit but I have several for 1911 and the newer kits are not so good as the older ones.

This may have caused the lower prices, but they are still drop in fit as far as I know!

 

 

Wolf

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You can see the color change on my PRIME M16 kit. [...] You can especially see it around the rear receiver pin...that actually went away when I wiped it down with a cloth.

 

Oh, that's not bad at all. I thought it would be much worse than that - it looks fine to me! And besides you're absolutely right - the fit and function is far more important.

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UPDATE: Just fitted TM E2 into Prime E2 kit.

 

First time I took apart a P226.

 

Things went reasonably well.

 

The Prime wasn't a perfect drop-in fit, but nearly. I struggled with the larger of the two pins that hold the hammer group in place. Getting the hammer group to line up perfectly with the hole in the frame was tricky. Finally found a phillips screwdriver of just the right diameter, stuck it in the hole, and then the pin was willing to follow.

 

Also, the BBU wasn't a perfect fit in the slide. It seemed to fit, but actually when the front was fully in, the back rose 1/2 milimeter, and vice versa. Some very minor filing off a couple of sharp corners on the front of the BBU, and in it went.

 

Getting the trigger group and hammer group all back in at once was fiddly, but I'm sure with practice that gets easier.

 

The black finish on the Prime does mark up easily. I tried sliding a light on the accessory rail, and afterwards there was a line on the side of the frame. It's the kind of mark that you can't see at all at one angle, and can see clearly at another, depending on how the light is striking the surface.

 

Also fitted the Prime fake firing pin, which is a nice touch and installs easily.

 

On duster it's cycling fine and I''m getting lock-back on empty magazine.

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When it's solid black, I think it's G-10, when it's a combo of two colors, Hogue coined G-mascus. The checkered grips are very good, more aggressive than you'd think. I think the same checkering on aluminum would not be quite as aggressive.

 

They were a *badgeress* to install, because of the differences of the TM E2 from r.s. The left side in particular needed all kinds of relief/easing (=dremelling). Would never have got them on without initial help and guidance from BaBaBooey, because you also need to install insert-bushings borrowed from a regular TM Sig. (The E2 has push-on grips, and Prime copies this faithfully.) Guarder screws.

 

The extractor is separate. As are the slide pins, and the trigger pin ends. Lots of little fiddly bits. All of them seem to be made of METAL!

 

Internally, only change was a Nine Ball 1911/hi-capa piston head with "alternative" O-ring.

 

Works great and very accurate. :)

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