Utty Posted June 8, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2012 Thanks! And what's the story with the CA? Is it really made of CNC steel? No, it's the scope rail that's CNC'd, aluminium at best, and almost certainly a die-cast then CNC finished process. Still if it won't shoot it looks pretty just wish I could replace the nasty M16 flash hider with a proper FAL one. Then why don't you? Several other local players had the CA 58 back when I started playing, all of them had problems with theirs. One caught fire. My first one also had a bad habit of stripping the piston when running on 11.1V lipo. Switched to 7.4V, installed a Marui piston, never had a problem since. Definitely the gun I've had most kills with, along with my spectacular JLS RX4. The key to successful Classic Army airsofting is to rip out the internals and cast a very critical eye on each part, and replace as needed. Most need the internals completely redone: replace dental floss wires, swap for a piston not made of cheese and correct the AOE while you're at it, etc. Skirmishing with a stock CA is a fool's errand. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Cool Breeze Posted June 11, 2012 Report Share Posted June 11, 2012 (edited) Can anyone tell where can I obtain this one? Dont like M4 flash hider Edited June 11, 2012 by Cool Breeze Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thartwig Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 My spur gear died today, and one of the teeth on the pinion gear has chipped. Just got a nice huge lipo (11.1v) and was testing and it started to make the most horrible screeching sound. Fortunately everything else was fine. My internals, such as the nozzle and piston head werent beat up like yours. I dont think the gears look all that great they have an odd finish compared to something like XYT which ill be replacing my spur with. Other than that i have to say the internals arent bad. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted June 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Yeah, the stock gears are rougher looking than something like XYT parts. Did you shoot it completely stock, or had it been reshimmed, relubed and such? Another thing: the piston/sector gear angle of engagement is pretty damn good out of the box. I'd say it's adequate in stock form, but I did add a single 1.6mm spacer behind the piston head to get a truly flat angle. Compared to the Umarex G36CV I bought at the same time as this, it needed 4.8mm of spacer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thartwig Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 completely stock, i was gonna wait for something to break before tearing into the gearbox, i just didnt think it was going to be this quick! lol Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rusty65 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 As the classic army SA58 took a Sig type hopup do you think/know if the QP version can also take one? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted June 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 thartwig: personally I don't trust any AEG to not tear itself apart out of the box. There will almost always be something you can improve, be it shimming, lube, AOE or compression, all factors that may improve the general durability of the internals without actually replacing any parts except maybe some shims and a better piston head O-ring. Rusty65: no idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
thartwig Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 agreed, however i had only put a few hundred rounds through, it was still a bit unexpected Quote Link to post Share on other sites
groundhog-shooters Posted June 26, 2012 Report Share Posted June 26, 2012 Here is my Classic Army SA58 OSW. The previous owner got it a mosfet and changed some of the internals to an m100 setup. I changed the following parts: Deepfire M120, Deepfire Titanum Piston V2, Deepfire Metal Springguide and a G&G M140 High Torque Motor. I shimmed and lubed the gearbox. It also got a Prometheus Rubber (Softtype) and a Promtheus 6,03 318mm Innerbarrel. It shoots 400fps with 0,2g. It runs very smooth with a 11,1V 1300mah 20C Lipo which fits easily into the PEQ15. Here you can see a Video. [media=] [/media] Now i´m very satisfied with this setup. I got it out on sunday and it did an exellent job :-) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted July 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 3, 2012 (edited) That's what I call a nice gunzer. A little raped, but sometimes a little rape is a good thing. (edit) .... on a gun. Edited July 3, 2012 by Utty Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The S.C.A.R. Posted July 4, 2012 Report Share Posted July 4, 2012 No, it's the scope rail that's CNC'd, aluminium at best, and almost certainly a die-cast then CNC finished process. Then why don't you? Several other local players had the CA 58 back when I started playing, all of them had problems with theirs. One caught fire. My first one also had a bad habit of stripping the piston when running on 11.1V lipo. Switched to 7.4V, installed a Marui piston, never had a problem since. Definitely the gun I've had most kills with, along with my spectacular JLS RX4. The key to successful Classic Army airsofting is to rip out the internals and cast a very critical eye on each part, and replace as needed. Most need the internals completely redone: replace dental floss wires, swap for a piston not made of cheese and correct the AOE while you're at it, etc. Skirmishing with a stock CA is a fool's errand. Spot on man!!! I earned the lesson of Classic Army airsofting the hard way when I took my stock 416 Sportline for a game. Out-ranged, out-powered... Spent the same amount of cash I used to buy the gun and worked out the internals. Now the gun's running smoothly and shooting as nice as it can under USD 300 (including the gun itself). You can't skirmish with a CA unless you have modified it (I modified it right after the warranty expired) Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted October 31, 2012 Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 can anyone tell me how to dissasemble this gun >?< Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted October 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2012 Remove the two large coin screws, one on each side of the receiver. With those off, the upper receiver can be pulled right off. Remove the pistol grip screw. This allows the grip and trigger guard to come off, and then the mechbox can be pulled right out of the lower receiver. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted November 1, 2012 Report Share Posted November 1, 2012 Why am I finding it so hard to get this gun back together properly? There is literally no room for wires. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin_The+Ferret Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Why am I finding it so hard to get this gun back together properly? There is literally no room for wires. Be very carefull, I managed to strip the insulation re-assembling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted November 2, 2012 Report Share Posted November 2, 2012 Likewise! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Probotector Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 (edited) I got the Classic Army SA58 not long ago. I like the externals and I'm gonna upgrade it internally soon. So far the charging lever broke on me. The fake-chamber shuts so hard, it not only ripped the screw from its place but the charging lever broke into two pieces. Why isn't it made of steel...? Damnit. Í guess I'll have to find a used QP for parts, seems like a very nice copy. Good review. Like it. Edited November 3, 2012 by Probotector Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Colin_The+Ferret Posted November 3, 2012 Report Share Posted November 3, 2012 I took some coils off the return spring to soften the impact. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Utty Posted November 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 Oh yeah, I remember having trouble with the wires too when I got my first CA 58. I found that it's overall easier if you leave out the wire arranger clip that normally screws through the rear of the mechbox, and just arrange the wires manually when reassembling the gun. It may seem like there's absolutely no room for wires, but it's really no problem once you get the hang of it. Of course, I do use MOSFETS in mine, with only 20 AWG signal wires going to the trigger, so that definitely makes reassembly easier. That said, there are AEG models that have way, way less room for wires. Broken charging handle: that's what happens when you don't manually push the charging handle forward before hitting the bolt release, I'm afraid. Why aren't airsoft guns made from the same materials as even the cheapest, nastiest chinese air rifle, namely solid, blued steel? Good question my friend. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted November 4, 2012 Report Share Posted November 4, 2012 I'd love to get a MOSFET in mine, but I cant for the life of me work out if I'll have enough space for it, I was going to do away with my gastube for a LiPo under the RIS, im wondering if I can just route the MOSFET into there too. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 can somone please tell me is there anyway to move the rail on the side to underneith ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted November 6, 2012 Report Share Posted November 6, 2012 No, the side ad top rails are one piece. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
MICYW Posted November 9, 2012 Report Share Posted November 9, 2012 can somone please tell me is there anyway to move the rail on the side to underneith ? I'm sorry?? I realy don't know what you are talking about. You have the CA SA58 quad front rail that has 4 rails. One top rail, one bottom rail, one rail on the left and one on the right. Uninstalled Installed: To detach the front rail you must. Unscrew 6 screws which you can see from the top. If those 6 screws are out you can lift up the top piece of the front rail handguard. To detach the bottom part you have to unscrew one screw which you can find at the front of the bottom rail near your front sight. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ariamark Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 I'm sorry?? I realy don't know what you are talking about. You have the CA SA58 quad front rail that has 4 rails. One top rail, one bottom rail, one rail on the left and one on the right. Uninstalled Installed: To detach the front rail you must. Unscrew 6 screws which you can see from the top. If those 6 screws are out you can lift up the top piece of the front rail handguard. To detach the bottom part you have to unscrew one screw which you can find at the front of the bottom rail near your front sight. dude iam on about the ones wityh the hang garud with one rail on the side not the ris osw vesion Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted November 13, 2012 Report Share Posted November 13, 2012 It's hard to understand what you're on about at all, take some time with your spelling next time. Got a link to the handguard you're talking about? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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