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SA58: Quality Power vs Classic Army


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Thanks! And what's the story with the CA? Is it really made of CNC steel?

No, it's the scope rail that's CNC'd, aluminium at best, and almost certainly a die-cast then CNC finished process.

 

Still if it won't shoot it looks pretty :) just wish I could replace the nasty M16 flash hider with a proper FAL one.

Then why don't you? :)

 

Several other local players had the CA 58 back when I started playing, all of them had problems with theirs. One caught fire.

 

My first one also had a bad habit of stripping the piston when running on 11.1V lipo. Switched to 7.4V, installed a Marui piston, never had a problem since. Definitely the gun I've had most kills with, along with my spectacular JLS RX4.

 

The key to successful Classic Army airsofting is to rip out the internals and cast a very critical eye on each part, and replace as needed. Most need the internals completely redone: replace dental floss wires, swap for a piston not made of cheese and correct the AOE while you're at it, etc. Skirmishing with a stock CA is a fool's errand.

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My spur gear died today, and one of the teeth on the pinion gear has chipped. Just got a nice huge lipo (11.1v) and was testing and it started to make the most horrible screeching sound. Fortunately everything else was fine. My internals, such as the nozzle and piston head werent beat up like yours. I dont think the gears look all that great they have an odd finish compared to something like XYT which ill be replacing my spur with. Other than that i have to say the internals arent bad.

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Yeah, the stock gears are rougher looking than something like XYT parts. Did you shoot it completely stock, or had it been reshimmed, relubed and such?

 

Another thing: the piston/sector gear angle of engagement is pretty damn good out of the box. I'd say it's adequate in stock form, but I did add a single 1.6mm spacer behind the piston head to get a truly flat angle. Compared to the Umarex G36CV I bought at the same time as this, it needed 4.8mm of spacer.

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thartwig: personally I don't trust any AEG to not tear itself apart out of the box. There will almost always be something you can improve, be it shimming, lube, AOE or compression, all factors that may improve the general durability of the internals without actually replacing any parts except maybe some shims and a better piston head O-ring.

 

Rusty65: no idea. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here is my Classic Army SA58 OSW.

 

7439779958_bef1daee86.jpg

 

The previous owner got it a mosfet and changed some of the internals to an m100 setup. I changed the following parts: Deepfire M120, Deepfire Titanum Piston V2, Deepfire Metal Springguide and a G&G M140 High Torque Motor. I shimmed and lubed the gearbox. It also got a Prometheus Rubber (Softtype) and a Promtheus 6,03 318mm Innerbarrel. It shoots 400fps with 0,2g.

 

It runs very smooth with a 11,1V 1300mah 20C Lipo which fits easily into the PEQ15.

 

Here you can see a Video.

[media=]

[/media]

 

Now i´m very satisfied with this setup. I got it out on sunday and it did an exellent job :-)

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No, it's the scope rail that's CNC'd, aluminium at best, and almost certainly a die-cast then CNC finished process.

 

 

Then why don't you? :)

 

Several other local players had the CA 58 back when I started playing, all of them had problems with theirs. One caught fire.

 

My first one also had a bad habit of stripping the piston when running on 11.1V lipo. Switched to 7.4V, installed a Marui piston, never had a problem since. Definitely the gun I've had most kills with, along with my spectacular JLS RX4.

 

The key to successful Classic Army airsofting is to rip out the internals and cast a very critical eye on each part, and replace as needed. Most need the internals completely redone: replace dental floss wires, swap for a piston not made of cheese and correct the AOE while you're at it, etc. Skirmishing with a stock CA is a fool's errand.

 

Spot on man!!! I earned the lesson of Classic Army airsofting the hard way when I took my stock 416 Sportline for a game. Out-ranged, out-powered...

Spent the same amount of cash I used to buy the gun and worked out the internals. Now the gun's running smoothly and shooting as nice as it can under USD 300 (including the gun itself). You can't skirmish with a CA unless you have modified it (I modified it right after the warranty expired)

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  • 3 months later...

Remove the two large coin screws, one on each side of the receiver. With those off, the upper receiver can be pulled right off.

 

Remove the pistol grip screw. This allows the grip and trigger guard to come off, and then the mechbox can be pulled right out of the lower receiver.

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I got the Classic Army SA58 not long ago. I like the externals and I'm gonna upgrade it internally soon.

 

So far the charging lever broke on me. The fake-chamber shuts so hard, it not only ripped the screw from its place but the charging lever broke into two pieces. Why isn't it made of steel...? Damnit. Í guess I'll have to find a used QP for parts, seems like a very nice copy.

 

Good review. Like it.:)

Edited by Probotector
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Oh yeah, I remember having trouble with the wires too when I got my first CA 58. I found that it's overall easier if you leave out the wire arranger clip that normally screws through the rear of the mechbox, and just arrange the wires manually when reassembling the gun. It may seem like there's absolutely no room for wires, but it's really no problem once you get the hang of it. Of course, I do use MOSFETS in mine, with only 20 AWG signal wires going to the trigger, so that definitely makes reassembly easier.

 

That said, there are AEG models that have way, way less room for wires.

 

Broken charging handle: that's what happens when you don't manually push the charging handle forward before hitting the bolt release, I'm afraid. Why aren't airsoft guns made from the same materials as even the cheapest, nastiest chinese air rifle, namely solid, blued steel? Good question my friend. :(

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can somone please tell me is there anyway to move the rail on the side to underneith ?

 

I'm sorry?? I realy don't know what you are talking about.

 

You have the CA SA58 quad front rail that has 4 rails. One top rail, one bottom rail, one rail on the left and one on the right.

Uninstalled

AC-UPE-CA-A268M.jpg

 

Installed:

ERA-CA-OSW-035M-6.jpg

To detach the front rail you must. Unscrew 6 screws which you can see from the top. If those 6 screws are out you can lift up the top piece of the front rail handguard.

To detach the bottom part you have to unscrew one screw which you can find at the front of the bottom rail near your front sight.

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I'm sorry?? I realy don't know what you are talking about.

 

You have the CA SA58 quad front rail that has 4 rails. One top rail, one bottom rail, one rail on the left and one on the right.

Uninstalled

AC-UPE-CA-A268M.jpg

 

Installed:

ERA-CA-OSW-035M-6.jpg

To detach the front rail you must. Unscrew 6 screws which you can see from the top. If those 6 screws are out you can lift up the top piece of the front rail handguard.

To detach the bottom part you have to unscrew one screw which you can find at the front of the bottom rail near your front sight.

dude iam on about the ones wityh the hang garud with one rail on the side not the ris osw vesion
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