KWA LM4 PTR GBB

[TheFull9]

Anyone have any tips for getting the rear pin out of the nozzle/bolt?  I'm struggling.

 

Being round and plastic it's just awful to try and vice, you can't exactly crank the thing down tight like you would a block of steel.  Then with the pin being off the centre of axis the whole nozzle just ends up rotating rather than the pin moving out,  a problem which is compounded by the fact you can't clamp it tightly in the vice.  That and the metal pin inside the plastic nozzle seems to cause some uber friction, I get the feeling the hole they put it in to was an interference fit.

[akiraspeedstar]

I hold it down with my toes haha, seriously

[TheFull9]

Well there are some strong muscles in the foot.. might try just roping my brother in to lend a hand first before I try that method though.

[John_234]

I had a buddy hold the part on a table and just used the smallest pin punch I could find. It scratched up the plastic, but I did get it out without an issue.

 

Also, my feed lips are dead between three mags. I've been retention reloading, but if a mag just falls out when I'm running or something, it's just game over. Anybody sourced feed lips for the LM4 PMAGs, or is contacting KWA directly the best option at this point?

[hwagan]

Well there are some strong muscles in the foot.. might try just roping my brother in to lend a hand first before I try that method though.

 

 

I had a buddy hold the part on a table and just used the smallest pin punch I could find. It scratched up the plastic, but I did get it out without an issue.

 

Also, my feed lips are dead between three mags. I've been retention reloading, but if a mag just falls out when I'm running or something, it's just game over. Anybody sourced feed lips for the LM4 PMAGs, or is contacting KWA directly the best option at this point?

 

 

Second pair of hands (Or toes, although I didn't try that myself) definitely helps - I was getting nowhere until I got a mate to hold the nozzle solid while I punched the pin. 

 

Also, Akira - Much appreciate the FPS video, I've knocked my LM4 down to 350 on a hot mag, and it sits around 320-330 at room temperature. Couldn't have figured that out without the video, so cheers!

[TheFull9]

Did try getting my brother to hold the thing down, but that pin is seriously sticking in there.

 

The solution I was recommended in my thread over in tech discussion might do the trick for this thinking about it, I'll see if I can't mould myself some vice jaws.

[hwagan]

It really is tough to remove the first time - I had a friend leaning pretty much his entire weight on the strongest part of the nozzle body, and I gave the punch a few serious wallops with a hammer - Perseverance is the key, once it moves a mm, it'll be out in no time. It's just that first mm is a *badgeress*. 

[John_234]

I just removed the barrels from my LM4. Surprisingly, despite everyone's difficulties with them on the KWA forums, I just tapped the armorer's wrench with a mallet a few times and it came off. I didn't even use a vise. Since the flashhider came off without having to use a heat gun, maybe the glue was just thin on a low-serial LM4?

[akiraspeedstar]

Maybe, my flash hider came off with out heating it or using much strength and my barrel but came off with a couple taps with a mallet as well.

[John_234]

Maybe, my flash hider came off with out heating it or using much strength and my barrel but came off with a couple taps with a mallet as well.

Hmm. Well, either way once I get the RA tech tightbore, I'm going ahead with an SBR build of some kind.

[akiraspeedstar]

Home made Gangsta grip utilizing the KWA LM4 pistol grip...

 

[WTF?Shane]

 

SBR in the works.

[WTF?Shane]

Anyone get the Crusader BAD-CASS replica safety selector? I almost picked one up on WGC Shop but my order didn't go through and changed from in stock to out of stock. I've read emp3ror86's post in the KSC thread, but wondering if any difference in fitment on the KWA LM4.

[akiraspeedstar]

I hear it doesn't fit perfectly, though it does work.

 

Also, Giessele rail? Sick

[emp3ror86]

Hmmm... will check that soon.

[WTF?Shane]

There's a review on the Crusader BAD-CASS replica product page on the WGC Shop site. The reviewer says they installed on LM4. I'm kinda iffy about online retailer customer reviews because they can be biased sometimes or even complete BS. Just seeing if anyone on AA has experience. Pics are a definite plus.

Edited April 4, 2013 by WTF?Shane

[TheFull9]

Got one on it's way right now.  Not sure when I'll get a chance to try fitting it, but I'll report back when I do.

[emp3ror86]

Well, ask and be given.

 

KWA LM4 is at the top of the picture, KSC M4 is at the bottom. The paint is terrible now, I know. Both of them are going to be repainted soon. Actually there is a KSC ambidextrious safety selector in our LM4. Drop in fit but tighter than in KSC.

 

And CASS in the LM4.

 

It is a tighter fit definitely. But no filing or modification was necessary. Actaully I would consider that as an advantage, the CASS sits better in the LM4 than in the KSC.

 

So you guys are good to go to get one. In my KSC topic you find information about what you need to file on it to make it work properly.

Edited April 4, 2013 by emp3ror86

[WTF?Shane]

THANK YOU!!! Now to find some in stock...

[emp3ror86]

Kicbbgun.tw had it in stock a few days ago.

You are welcome!

[Necro_Atrum]

Thanks to everyone in this thread I am now  the very happy owner of a KWA LM4 PTS. Thanks everyone. 

[akiraspeedstar]

Congrats man

[TheFull9]

t is a tighter fit definitely. But no filing or modification was necessary. Actaully I would consider that as an advantage, the CASS sits better in the LM4 than in the KSC.

 

So you guys are good to go to get one. In my KSC topic you find information about what you need to file on it to make it work properly.

 

Apologies for my pig-headedness here, I'm probably interpreting what you've said incorrectly. Is that to say the selector needs work in just the KSC, no adjustments for the KWA?

[emp3ror86]

Definitely not (unless Crusader Tech paid attention to my feedback I wrote to them). Our conversation here was about the diameter of the safety selector, not about the holes into the reatiner pin locks into. (Now I might have written something utter but it's late here and I am not really sober. )

Edited April 7, 2013 by emp3ror86

[TheFull9]

This'll be slightly redundant in some aspects after akira posted his (extremely useful) video, but I'd already taken some of the pictures by that point and it seems a shame to waste them.  A little while back Dave i.e. Dangerwerx sent over a new floating valve for me to install and test in my LM4, so here's the text/image based guide to swapping said valve in your rifle.   So if you want to swap the valve inside your nozzle, here's how:

 

First step is the basic field strip.  Punch out the rear receiver pin, pivot the upper, remove the bolt carrier group (BCG) and charging handle, placing the charging handle aside.  To begin the process of removing the bolt/nozzle from the bolt carrier, you'll need two screw drivers or similar to pop off this e-clip.

 

 

It is a tricky job, once it's removed I strongly recommend the mod akira did in his video i.e. replacing the clip with an o-ring.  In the UK, put 'o ring set' in to ebay and you'll find a lot of people selling red plastic cases with a large variety of sizes held inside; the 2nd smallest is the correct one to use for the job in question.

 

Now to allow the nozzle to slide free, remove this plate.

 

 

I found it easiest to come at it from the inside like so.

 

 

You'll now have the part of the LM4 which replicates the bolt of the RS AR-15, loading rounds from the magazine in to the hop-up/chamber.

 

 

This pin needs to be punched out.

 

 

I found this the hardest part of the whole process.  You'll need a good quality 1/16th" or 1.5mm pin punch (preferably about 1.3mm if you can find such a thing), but with the nozzle being an awkward shape it's hard to put it in a vice and with the pin being off the centre-of-axis within the nozzle, attempting to tap it out tends to just rotate the whole assembly.  In the end I picked up some plastic called polycaprolactone, which goes by various prodcut names such as polymorph and shapelock, which can again be found on ebay for a few pounds and is absurdly useful for a myriad of tasks.  It is an extremely easy to work with plastic which will allow you to simply mould some vice blocks to fit the nozzle securely while you work on it.

 

With the rear spring pin removed, next tap out this roll pin.

 

 

Ensuring you go from left to right (as if the nozzle was still inside the weapon and you had said weapon up in the aim).  Leaving the punch in place as you remove the pin will prevent anything from popping out and getting lost.  Carefully pull out the rear of the nozzle and drop out the inner parts, you'll have something like this laid out on your table.

 

 

The indicated silver piece is the floating/rocket/flute valve that I've replaced with the new Dangerwerx version in attempt to lower the FPS of the LM4 down to the 330 region using propane.  Swap your valve over (or clip/stretch the spring if you're using that method) then drop the spring and valve back in.  Use your 1.5mm pin punch again to hold them forward while you reinsert the front roll pin, which will then hold them in place.  For the rest, simply reverse this guide and everything should drop in to place nicely.